US Brig Syren 1803 Model Shipways MS 2260

The copper plating of the hull is made with a 6.35mm 1/4’’ wide copper tape on a 33m 36yard roll supplied in the kit.
Each plate should be cut in length of 12mm or11/16’’
Half of the shell is made
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And immediately the problems started.
During the copper plating of the hull of the Santisima Trinidad about ten years ago I had explored the copper tape method and quickly rejected this solution and used copper plates from Mantua with a good result
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Well the problem is that the @ $ #?% $ # Plates peel off at certain places

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I to try to correct with contact glue + - good.
Crying on my older son shoulder he suggested to me to use the heat with a hair dryer I was able to do the most by corrections for the one that was more recalcitrant I used my electric plank bender.
Now the hull is good enough and after 72 hours it staid on so it should hold but should not be manipulated too much
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So I decided to make the base immediately
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And his identification plate which will be made on a copper bar + later if the mood comes
Write the text I want
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Transferred to a wooden support
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Here is the Syren on its base
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Well

I waited 2 weeks to see if it was okay

OK NO it was a real disaster, I didn't even bother to take pictures too disgusted.



From that moment on I start to try to find a solution. For the section of the Santisima Trinidad I had used copper plates whose rivets were really off scale. For the ship used Mantua 5x15mm plates much better. 2 different type of plate but really too expensive.



I finally found the Amati 4392/04 sheet plate complete set of 259 port and 259 starboard plates (the difference is the direction of the nailing) needed 2 sets.

In the State they are available for $46.50 US per set

https://www.agesofsail.com/ecommerce/4392-04-set-of-copper-hull-plates-17x5mm-1-72-scale.html

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Well I know copper tape is less expensive and it is used successfully and with good results. Me it did not work at all, tape too old, bad base, wrong installation for any reason it did not work voila!

So redo the hull still remains a bit of acetone cleaning to remove traces of glue, but I have a beautiful hull that will not flake
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Oh yes my boy brought me in the meantime what will be his name plate finally made of aviation grade aluminum alloy, I still have to decided whether it will be as it is or painted not yet decide

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Hello Charles.

I am also building the Syren and I’m really interested in your comments about the copper tape. I have only recently started planking the hull but thinking ahead to what will be my first attempt at plating a hull. I think, given your experience with the kit supplied tape, that I might also buy the Amati sheets.

One thing I have found though is I now hate basswood for the planking. It may be my inexperience but I was even thinking of stripping it all off and redoing the hull with pearwood or similar. However, it’s my first go at a sailing vessel so I think I’ll just keep going and put it down to a learning experience.

From the beautiful builds I have seen on this site I know it’s going to be a long learn before I get to a decent standard.

Thanks for your great build log.
Roger
 
Hello Charles.

I am also building the Syren and I’m really interested in your comments about the copper tape. I have only recently started planking the hull but thinking ahead to what will be my first attempt at plating a hull. I think, given your experience with the kit supplied tape, that I might also buy the Amati sheets.

One thing I have found though is I now hate basswood for the planking. It may be my inexperience but I was even thinking of stripping it all off and redoing the hull with pearwood or similar. However, it’s my first go at a sailing vessel so I think I’ll just keep going and put it down to a learning experience.

From the beautiful builds I have seen on this site I know it’s going to be a long learn before I get to a decent standard.

Thanks for your great build log.
Roger

There is a Chinese site on Ebay that sells the tape pre-imprinted. Not plates, tape.
 
@TKAM thanks for the advice. I don’t want to hijack Charles build log so I’ll do some reading of other builds, see what others did and then start my own thread.
Thanks again,
Roger
 
Good 8 months without working on the Syren

Exterior work, and redo the basement + eye surgery and also I think after my mishap with the copper plate I didn't really have the taste to work on her

That said finish chapter 9 details of the hull
Installation of decorations at the stern

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During the work in the basement the ship the rudder was torn off and the bow was seriously damaged too (I will elaborate in chapter 10)

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Only 2 copper plates came off following the shock when the model fell

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The ladder, accessory, the channel and the ports lids in position

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Next chapter 10 is the bow that won't be easy to do
 
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Looking very good
only one small error occured, there seems to be small typewriting error with the "N"
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For chapter 10 I will divide it into 2 or 3 posts



Ok bow repair

When I made the hull I had noticed that there was perhaps a difference between the plan and the current part and yes not the same draw on a tracing paper the shape and there is a good difference in the 2



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Fix and have a look



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Good other difference the figurehead which according to the instructions comes in 3 parts



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The one supplied with the kit is single metal parts



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Getting in position to see



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Seen the aspect I do not had the choice to paint the figurine



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Makes the rails painted GOLD with a discreet line



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At the same time correct the N of the name (which still seems to have a small defect) and painted the decoration of the stern


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Used this tool to draw small lines

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Another very practical tool is a 3rd hand that one of my boys gave me

In this case to paint the stern I have lighting problem that tool solve my problem when I need well focused lighting



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The bow is finish
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Deck detail
With a copy of the cut plan have marked the locations of certain details on the deck
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Installation of carronade supports
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Installation of fly rails
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Manufacture of rings that I place at this moment as the deck is empty
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Stern detail
It lacks a drawing a little more precise than what is provided for the placement of the element
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This portion is now complete
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Next step installation of caronade
 
Hi Charles,

Your Syren is coming on well and you must be pleased to be able to start adding all the fixtures and fittings. I find it a really enjoyable build but it does take time, which I am also short of lately for modelling.

I will continue to follow your build with much interest.
 
Measure the length needed for the restraint cable

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As the barrels do not have rings, make rings that will be put in position and glued with bi-component epoxy glue and placed in place2.jpg

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The first is complete and set up as a test

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The pulleys are 2.5mm, a hook of 0.4mm in diameter by +- 1mm in length must be placed at one end so I made myself a template to make the hole that will receive the hook. During the manufacture of the first 8 I screwed up 3 of them with my template only 5 out of 120 and it was much faster.
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Installation of the last 15 retained cables and manufacture of the 120 rolls of cables
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Here are the last 15 done
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And pose on the deck
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Material for 16 carronades
Each carronade is composed of 5 pieces +
128 hooks
128 pulleys
160 rings
+ 16 rings for retaining cables
64 rolls of cable
The next 4 chapter will be the deck furniture.
 
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