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Nice Robin you are as careful to build your ship as you where with the B.N. 
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Cheers Charles thanks for the kind words bud 
Next a plank was run down the side of the hull and a marker used to transfer the shape onto the outer stern frames. The frames were then cut & sanded into the mark and faired somewhat to match the side of the hull.
Now I put a bit of time into preparing what I've done to date, before delving into the next chapter (chapter 5) where we actually start planking the hull.
I took a wood filler and filled any area's around the gun and sweep ports that needed tidying up before a light surface sand with 600 grit. This was followed by adding four filler pieces at the stern under the counter that the hull planks will run to. These fillers have to be shaped carefully so I decided to tack glue one side on and shape it in position. Then I took it off and ruffed out the other side to match it before gluing both sides on permanently. Worked well although I will still be running some more batten tests and tweaking some more. Not having done a hull of this type before means taking my time and hopefully not screwing up!
With that I took out the paint and put two coats around the gun and sweep ports.
A few picks of the above...
Next a plank was run down the side of the hull and a marker used to transfer the shape onto the outer stern frames. The frames were then cut & sanded into the mark and faired somewhat to match the side of the hull.
Now I put a bit of time into preparing what I've done to date, before delving into the next chapter (chapter 5) where we actually start planking the hull.
I took a wood filler and filled any area's around the gun and sweep ports that needed tidying up before a light surface sand with 600 grit. This was followed by adding four filler pieces at the stern under the counter that the hull planks will run to. These fillers have to be shaped carefully so I decided to tack glue one side on and shape it in position. Then I took it off and ruffed out the other side to match it before gluing both sides on permanently. Worked well although I will still be running some more batten tests and tweaking some more. Not having done a hull of this type before means taking my time and hopefully not screwing up!
With that I took out the paint and put two coats around the gun and sweep ports.
A few picks of the above...
Planking started with the upper wale being glued on.
Well I thought i was doing great tonight until one slip of the saw on a very tricky little bit of the hull planking.
Take a look but yea I will probably start the piece over... My life story!
Planking up from the wale means cutting out around the ports. After a lot of work trying to get it right, on the last notch I dug a little deep with the saw. It is not glued on just sitting there. I will probably start the piece over tomorrow night. Arrow pointing to the bad cut...
I have a partial fix for the above though. I can cut it back a bulkhead. Lose the bad area which is cut off to close to the sweep port for comfort when it come time to tree nail anyway.
This will still give me an acceptable board length and I will only lose half the work
And have more room to tree nail. Should look better all round... Pick below
Well I thought i was doing great tonight until one slip of the saw on a very tricky little bit of the hull planking.
Take a look but yea I will probably start the piece over... My life story!
Planking up from the wale means cutting out around the ports. After a lot of work trying to get it right, on the last notch I dug a little deep with the saw. It is not glued on just sitting there. I will probably start the piece over tomorrow night. Arrow pointing to the bad cut...
I have a partial fix for the above though. I can cut it back a bulkhead. Lose the bad area which is cut off to close to the sweep port for comfort when it come time to tree nail anyway.
This will still give me an acceptable board length and I will only lose half the work
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You are progressing nicely
I think that I will be able to work on mine late this week working on the RL at the moment.
I think that I will be able to work on mine late this week working on the RL at the moment.
Don't worry bud RL is usually way more important. I got an update to get out. I had to tear one side off to start over will update soon Cheers ~
Cheers ~
Going forward at the moment is going to be a tricky process. I was following the instruc's to get the lip around the gun ports but I can see how this might well affect the sheer line of the strakes as a friend pointed out. If I just cut up and stack planks between ports the sheer may well wind up being off and look awful. I will try gluing on the next plank full length and then cutting out the ports with it on there. I am more worried about wrecking the painted port openings than anything but we will see. If I can get good results I will have a way to move forward.
First pic gluing on the plank full length and then cutting out around the ports on ship. Switched back to the chucks method in the instructions for the port side as there is to much room for error when cutting out the ports this way. If I had it to do over I would have framed it differently and used filler strips for the lid stops on the ports. That would allow you to get a really clean look and maintain the shear. Live and learn eh.
Here is a pic of production plank bending. In this pic the planks were soaked for a half hour which was to long! Better results were obtained with just 10 minutes soaking time.
Continuing with the planking
Starboard side finished planking with a little clean up around the ports...
Moving on to the planking of the port side, as I mentioned I switched back to the instruction method to plank the port side.
Ok it gets even better errr worse! I planked in the port side only to find when I installed the top 7th plank above the wale it was about 3/4 of a plank width higher on the port than starboard side at the stern transom. Not sure how this had happened unless a clamp had shifted but there it was. After much consideration I decided there was only one solution!
Of coarse in the process of the solution I broke a bulwark off the last bulkhead at the stern so had to fix that before the clean up!
Ok that got cleaned up and planking the port side proceeded...
![IMG_2632[1].jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/103/103677-801354823b253de4b63f5ea25934b66c.jpg?hash=gBNUgjslPe "IMG_2632[1].jpg")
And with much better results this time ~~~
![IMG_2637[1].jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/103/103678-f35a895d1e253355c781bd050f033df1.jpg?hash=81qJXR4lM1 "IMG_2637[1].jpg")
![IMG_2646[1]a.jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/103/103679-8a387dbb41f7743616ddbca691005737.jpg?hash=ijh9u0H3dD "IMG_2646[1]a.jpg")
![IMG_2651[1]a.jpg](https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/data/attachments/103/103680-6e829bf638c9e302e8fa896f3a02864d.jpg?hash=boKb9jjJ4w "IMG_2651[1]a.jpg")
Phew that was a close one, the whole issue appeared to have been between the last BH and the transom outside frame. I used the same markings for the second planking so again not sure what threw it out so far. But we managed to get through it in the end... Back to the shipyard.
Cheers ~
First pic gluing on the plank full length and then cutting out around the ports on ship. Switched back to the chucks method in the instructions for the port side as there is to much room for error when cutting out the ports this way. If I had it to do over I would have framed it differently and used filler strips for the lid stops on the ports. That would allow you to get a really clean look and maintain the shear. Live and learn eh.
Here is a pic of production plank bending. In this pic the planks were soaked for a half hour which was to long! Better results were obtained with just 10 minutes soaking time.
Continuing with the planking
Starboard side finished planking with a little clean up around the ports...
Moving on to the planking of the port side, as I mentioned I switched back to the instruction method to plank the port side.
Ok it gets even better errr worse! I planked in the port side only to find when I installed the top 7th plank above the wale it was about 3/4 of a plank width higher on the port than starboard side at the stern transom. Not sure how this had happened unless a clamp had shifted but there it was. After much consideration I decided there was only one solution!
Of coarse in the process of the solution I broke a bulwark off the last bulkhead at the stern so had to fix that before the clean up!
Ok that got cleaned up and planking the port side proceeded...
And with much better results this time
~~~Phew that was a close one, the whole issue appeared to have been between the last BH and the transom outside frame. I used the same markings for the second planking so again not sure what threw it out so far. But we managed to get through it in the end... Back to the shipyard.
Cheers ~
Excellent progress @NovaStorm!! Actually, not sure if you actually noticed, but... you have shown us that a really great and important lesson: Don't be afraid to re-do if you are not completely satisfied! Yes, it takes some extra time, yes you may have some challenges re-doing. But... In the end, you will be happy and the challenges make our hobby interesting and fascinating, doesn't it? 
Hi Jim thanks for the comment. To true I had two choices at that point. Let it sit on the shelve for a year until I got sick of looking at it, or 2nd choice go for it! Having chosen to go for it I found it really wasn't that hard to do. Bonus was what I learned along the way! We all set a standard that we would like to reach. Hopefully it is with in our ability. This is only my second build so I am still very much in the newbie learning faze. Cheers bud
Cheers bud
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I am not worried at all about your skill
I have follow you on your Blue Nose and do know how skilful and the attention to detail you do so the Syren I know it will be perfect
I have follow you on your Blue Nose and do know how skilful and the attention to detail you do so the Syren I know it will be perfect
I gave the planks above the wale a good sanding with 220grit paper. The next step is working on the transom which will overhang on the outside of the stern until the fashion pieces are put in. So sanding what i have done so far seemed necessary. I am going to do the transom differently than the instructions as I plan to plank it across the stern. Once that is done I will be able to drill and use putty to simulate tree nails over all the present area's. Followed by finishing up the remainder of the hull planking which won't need tree nails, it gets copper plated.
I suppose I should tape up what I have sanded to protect it until it is ready to take some stain. No point staining before doing treenails as they will require a sanding and I was going to give it a go with 600 grit before staining anyway. Fairly pleased with the planking. I think I could have clamped the planks together a little tighter. Any thoughts or suggestions always appreciated.
Thought I better do a check on the port openings since I will not be using the kit cannons. Looks good!
The char from the laser on the sheets leaves a lot to be desired tho.
I suppose I should tape up what I have sanded to protect it until it is ready to take some stain. No point staining before doing treenails as they will require a sanding and I was going to give it a go with 600 grit before staining anyway. Fairly pleased with the planking. I think I could have clamped the planks together a little tighter. Any thoughts or suggestions always appreciated.
Thought I better do a check on the port openings since I will not be using the kit cannons. Looks good!
The char from the laser on the sheets leaves a lot to be desired tho.
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work advancing at a good pace
I haven't been totally dead in the water. Ready to do up a planking plan, also did up the transom planking as a prefab off ship. It will go on after I've finished planking the hull.
Finishing up planking the port side. Starboard is half done. Learned a few things along the way. Including how important it is when starting out with the garboard plank to get the placement just right. Mine had a curve at the bow which of coarse accelerated along the way. Should have started with it back a little more from the stem. So again learning along the way. The stern was also a very tricky area as I haven't done this shape of hull before I really wasn't to sure how it went until i actually did it despite looking at numerous builds online.
Couple pics:
After a quick sand. Still have the additional planks over the wales to add.
Finishing up planking the port side. Starboard is half done. Learned a few things along the way. Including how important it is when starting out with the garboard plank to get the placement just right. Mine had a curve at the bow which of coarse accelerated along the way. Should have started with it back a little more from the stem. So again learning along the way. The stern was also a very tricky area as I haven't done this shape of hull before I really wasn't to sure how it went until i actually did it despite looking at numerous builds online.
Couple pics:
After a quick sand. Still have the additional planks over the wales to add.
Looking good, great progress!
Now finished planking the starboard side which completes the hull planking. Cleaned it up with some sandpaper and wood filler.
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It looks good Robin planking is a long and arduous step in a ship
Did you made your test for the coopering?
Did you made your test for the coopering?
Hi Charles, glad you like the planking. The trick is to put on Netflix and watch movies while you plank I enjoyed it and notice I am getting better and more confident as I go. Still lots to learn. I haven't gotten the test for coppering done yet. That will be next, I have been working on testing out some stains I have on hand as well as tree nailing! Couple of pics, the first one shows my attempts at tree nailing using the instruction method with wood filler. Not at all happy with the results of that one. The second pic is done by drilling the hole, reaming it with a pencil and setting (gluing) in a wooden peg. That is the way I will go. It was a lot faster way of doing it for me also.
I will also probably go with the # 603 minwax Antique Maple stain for the hull above the wales and use the # 231 gunstock for some of the furniture.
Varathane should make a good sealer to put the copper on top of. But I will do a test first and let you know. I have seen a few logs using sanding sealer but it is extremely expensive and next to impossible to get here, short of a four liter size container. Cheers ~
I enjoyed it and notice I am getting better and more confident as I go. Still lots to learn. I haven't gotten the test for coppering done yet. That will be next, I have been working on testing out some stains I have on hand as well as tree nailing! Couple of pics, the first one shows my attempts at tree nailing using the instruction method with wood filler. Not at all happy with the results of that one. The second pic is done by drilling the hole, reaming it with a pencil and setting (gluing) in a wooden peg. That is the way I will go. It was a lot faster way of doing it for me also. I will also probably go with the # 603 minwax Antique Maple stain for the hull above the wales and use the # 231 gunstock for some of the furniture.
Varathane should make a good sealer to put the copper on top of. But I will do a test first and let you know. I have seen a few logs using sanding sealer but it is extremely expensive and next to impossible to get here, short of a four liter size container. Cheers ~
It is often a question of taste.
The treenails shown on the second photo are looking much better, but maybe try one or two number smaller drills (smaller in diameter) - which would look more realistic. In moment they are appr. 1/3rd of width of the plank, which is looking very dominant, especially because they are much darker than the plank timber.
The way with the "pencil first" and afterwards filler is looking good.
One tip for your trial test:
You should make in your test several rows next to each other, with the theoretical distance of the original framing (and not bulkheads).
Only than you can see how your treenailing test will look like on the final hull - immediately you will recognize if you like it in your way.
With only one vertical row you can see a little bit
This is a perfectly made hull of a french ship of line model (50% copper and 50% wooden treenails - british had 100% wooden treenails) but you can imagine what I want to say
The treenails shown on the second photo are looking much better, but maybe try one or two number smaller drills (smaller in diameter) - which would look more realistic. In moment they are appr. 1/3rd of width of the plank, which is looking very dominant, especially because they are much darker than the plank timber.
The way with the "pencil first" and afterwards filler is looking good.
One tip for your trial test:
You should make in your test several rows next to each other, with the theoretical distance of the original framing (and not bulkheads).
Only than you can see how your treenailing test will look like on the final hull - immediately you will recognize if you like it in your way.
With only one vertical row you can see a little bit
This is a perfectly made hull of a french ship of line model (50% copper and 50% wooden treenails - british had 100% wooden treenails) but you can imagine what I want to say
Hi Uwe, thanks for the advise I couldn't agree more. I did a second run last evening and already suspecting they were to large (dominant) that run really confirmed it. Great advise much appreciated. I will post a sample once I feel I've got it right. Cheers ~
Well forget the sample I settled on a size and feeling frisky went to for it. Drill, drill and more drilling!!! Almost completed the tree nailing port and starboard. Test fitting the transom planking prefab I did up. Decided not to follow the instructions on the transom as I like the planking better and the kit lazer cut pieces look to much like plywood to me. Cheers
You have been rewarded for the long drilling work. Planking looking really good! 