USS Constitution - Model Shipways

[Namabiiru]

i am trying to figure out if rosen core solder needs flux or not. I thought the rosen core was the flux...

It is. As a matter of course I use paste flux most every time anyway. Of course, the best thing for soldering small parts is solder paste, but I store mine in the refrigerator and I don’t usually plan ahead well enough to have it out and warmed up when I need it.

 

[Namabiiru]

You may want to try using silver solder and flux. Make sure the area to be soldered is really clean. you can cut the solder into small chunks if it is more helpful. I am sure there are a 1,000 you tube videos on how to do it.

Amazon.com: STA-BRITE SBSK Silver Solder 3/64 1/2 oz STAR2000 by Stay-Brite : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: STA-BRITE SBSK Silver Solder 3/64 1/2 oz STAR2000 by Stay-Brite : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

Very true. I have not tried silver solder yet, but your point about cutting off small pieces is absolutely right, no matter which solder you use. And by small, I mean bread crumb size.

 

[Peter Gutterman]

A look-see into jewelry making I am sure would be of use.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I have the correct solder and I also have some flux. I think I will try to add extra flux to the joint even though the solder has a rosen core.
And I will sand the parts as well as recommended in a previous post. I was under the impression that flux serves to clean the parts, but that doesn't seem to be good enough as the soldered joint I made is weak.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I have to find something to fit in the holes at the bottom of the chainplates. These holes serve to attach the chainplates to the hull. The nails they gave are too big for the holes. Lauch Street suggested using model train rivets, so I ordered some, but I don`t like their look. Maybe once they are painted it won`t show that they are made of plastic. I hope so.

I can also try to widen the holes but I don`t have a lot of extra room to work with.

 

[Namabiiru]

I have the correct solder and I also have some flux. I think I will try to add extra flux to the joint even though the solder has a rosen core.
And I will sand the parts as well as recommended in a previous post. I was under the impression that the flux serves to clean the parts, but that doesn't seem to be good enough as the soldered joint I made is weak.

Flux will only do so much to "clean" the parts. It will remove the microscopic layer of oxidation that forms as soon as the bare metal is exposed to air, but it won't remove shellac or other coatings that have been applied to prevent such oxidation.

BTW, go easy on the flux. It does only require a small amount, and excess flux will just leave a gummy residue that will need to be cleaned off afterward.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

You may want to try using silver solder and flux. Make sure the area to be soldered is really clean. you can cut the solder into small chunks if it is more helpful. I am sure there are a 1,000 you tube videos on how to do it.

Amazon.com: STA-BRITE SBSK Silver Solder 3/64 1/2 oz STAR2000 by Stay-Brite : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: STA-BRITE SBSK Silver Solder 3/64 1/2 oz STAR2000 by Stay-Brite : Tools & Home Improvement

www.amazon.com

thanks. I do have silver solder.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Flux will only do so much to "clean" the parts. It will remove the microscopic layer of oxidation that forms as soon as the bare metal is exposed to air, but it won't remove shellac or other coatings that have been applied to prevent such oxidation.

BTW, go easy on the flux. It does only require a small amount, and excess flux will just leave a gummy residue that will need to be cleaned off afterward.

thanks. I`ll do that.

 

[Vfordyce]

Lots of good advice here.

 

[Rob444]

I have to find something to fit in the holes at the bottom of the chainplates. These holes serve to attach the chainplates to the hull. The nails they gave are too big for the holes. Lauch Street suggested using model train rivets, so I ordered some, but I don`t like their look. Maybe once they are painted it won`t show that they are made of plastic. I hope so.

I can also try to widen the holes but I don`t have a lot of extra room to work with.

You can also try cutting some thin brass rod and use those as nails. If you want you can use thin slices of small diameter styrene rod glued over the ends of the rod/chain plate as the head of the rivet but at this scale you probably don't need to bother.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

You can also try cutting some thin brass rod and use those as nails. If you want you can use thin slices of small diameter styrene rod glued over the ends of the rod/chain plate as the head of the rivet but at this scale you probably don't need to bother.

great idea. thanks

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Here is one that took me about 2 minutes to make. It seems solid enough. I dare not file it further as I will probably wind up removing all the solder. As usual, there will be a 1/16 x 1/16 piece of wood that will cover the front of the chainplate thus locking it into place.

 

[GrantTyler]

Good evening Jack. I’m happy that the admiral convinced you not to send your Constitution off the Beechwood dam. Cheers Grant

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Good evening Jack. I’m happy that the admiral convinced you not to send your Constitution off the Beechwood dam. Cheers Grant

the jury is still out on that one. lol

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Well no pictures to show yet because I am having issues with soldering. I believe my iron is not powerful enough(40W) so I purchased a 100W iron. I should also mention that my solder is lead free with a rosen core and contains silver.

What I am seeing with the 40W iron is that it takes a long time to heat up, and once it is heated up I only get one chance at melting the solder before the iron cools down too much. I think the solder acts as a heat sink for the iron. I am hoping that by throwing more power at the problem, it should resolve itself. Maybe I am totally out to lunch. I don't know.

 

[Rob444]

Well no pictures to show yet because I am having issues with soldering. I believe my iron is not powerful enough(40W) so I purchased a 100W iron. I should also mention that my solder is lead free with a rosen core and contains silver.

What I am seeing with the 40W iron is that it takes a long time to heat up, and once it is heated up I only get one chance at melting the solder before the iron cools down too much. I think the solder acts as a heat sink for the iron. I am hoping that by throwing more power at the problem, it should resolve itself. Maybe I am totally out to lunch. I don't know.

Make sure you "tin" the solder iron by having a small bot of the solder on the surface of the iron itself then apply iy yo what you want soldered and put the solder onto the pieces not the iron. The heat from the pieces you want soldered should melt the solder not the iron itself. You may want to use a "helping hand" to hold the pieces or use a piece of tile.

Rob

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Make sure you "tin" the solder iron by having a small bot of the solder on the surface of the iron itself then apply iy yo what you want soldered and put the solder onto the pieces not the iron. The heat from the pieces you want soldered should melt the solder not the iron itself. You may want to use a "helping hand" to hold the pieces or use a piece of tile.

Rob

will do, thanks

 

[Namabiiru]

Well no pictures to show yet because I am having issues with soldering. I believe my iron is not powerful enough(40W) so I purchased a 100W iron. I should also mention that my solder is lead free with a rosen core and contains silver.

What I am seeing with the 40W iron is that it takes a long time to heat up, and once it is heated up I only get one chance at melting the solder before the iron cools down too much. I think the solder acts as a heat sink for the iron. I am hoping that by throwing more power at the problem, it should resolve itself. Maybe I am totally out to lunch. I don't know.

I think you are on the right track. I don’t use silver solder, but I understand it has a higher melting point than lead solder, which calls for a more powerful iron. I have several irons, and a butane torch to choose from, depending on what I am doing.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

I think you are on the right track. I don’t use silver solder, but I understand it has a higher melting point than lead solder, which calls for a more powerful iron. I have several irons, and a butane torch to choose from, depending on what I am doing.

thanks for the feedback. Yeah I thought I could save some money by buying a low power iron, but I can't even use it.

 

[Jack Sparrow]

Mr. Phelps. Your mission is as follows. As usual this message will self destruct in 10 seconds after you have read it:

I have to fit the rivet into the holes(reamed with a #75 drill bit) in the chainplate assemblies then attach to the hull with another rivet. The rivet is the little brown thing at the top right and the chainplate assemblies are the two other pieces. I have to clean the solder and paint everything black. Then rince and repeat.