Coastie, my kit had that same problem with the transom. I got it to fit fairly well using thin gap CA and filled the small gap with putty.That seems to be an issue with this kit.
USS CONSTITUTION REVELL 1/96 scale
- Thread starter pbryan
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Go online and look up "furling sails". Keep it simple too. Furled sails look great. Use Kleenex, per another modeler"s blog, whose name I forget (have to learn to write things down), with Elmer's Wood Glue at 20% and water at 80% mix. The color is right, the results are pretty good.
The kit sails make the Connie look like a toy. Also over time they deteriorate and crack. My own build will be with furled sails. The Kleenex sails look great and are great on the budget too. And they cut down some on the rigging.
Hallo @pbryan ,
we wish you all the BEST and a HAPPY BIRTHDAY
Are you still working on your Constitution? Maybe you want to update your log.....
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Reading the article referred to in post #86 made my bones ache.
Hide your kit from the kids, grand kids, pets and the wife
You'll have a problem with the transom fitting. This is partially due to the gun deck not fitting properly. I am doing my second, the first being destroyed by my granddaughter. I laid the three piece gun deck in place and shoved it forward enough that the transom fit properly, marked the overlap on the stern and mid deck sections with a #11 blade, then sanded away the overlap. I glued the two sections together (not to the hull) then laid them in...transom fits just right!
The bow section was laid in with the two glued sections abutting, but not glued to the hull, as per the kit directions. And there was no problem inserting the two glued sections into the hull.
If you use the kit supplied gun carriages on the gun deck, lay some medium sand paper on the table and pull the gun carriages over the sand paper two or three times. This will flatten the carriage wheels a little (not a lot) and give you better adhesion to the gun deck.
If you decide to use a laser deck, such as supplied by www.hismodel,com (this really dresses the kit up), keep in mind that that the laser deck is 3mm thick and will have effect on the captain's quarters fitting beneath the spar deck. To avoid fitting problems here, lay the deck in but unglued, mark the deck at the wall leading to the captain's quarters and cut it there before gluing in. I didnot use the laser deck in the captain's quarters on this build, but put in a very thin green felt cloth, looks like the captain has green carpets on his deck. I did the same for the "sofa", using red cloth on the seat cushion. (If you use a laser deck, there is a ridge you will have to shave off on the gun deck) ($108.70 for the laser deck, including shipping, up to two weeks delivery)
You do not need to use the gun port lids, as they were only used when sailing in rough seas, otherwise the ports being left open to aid ventilation, with the port lids stored below. This will save a lot of frustrating work. If you decide to forgo the lids, use putty to fill in the hinge depressions.
Tooth picks make excellent tampions for your guns, put them in as far as they will go then cut them off, paint the ends, add a little Aleen's to them and reinsert...viols, excellent tampions!
The kit supplied eye bolts suck, as they break! It is easy to replace them by taking a proper gauge of copper wire (Hobby Lobby) and, using a pair of pliers, twisting them around a nail of the proper gauge, using super glue to attach them...not the thin super glue though.
Hope you enjoyed your birthday!
The bow section was laid in with the two glued sections abutting, but not glued to the hull, as per the kit directions. And there was no problem inserting the two glued sections into the hull.
If you use the kit supplied gun carriages on the gun deck, lay some medium sand paper on the table and pull the gun carriages over the sand paper two or three times. This will flatten the carriage wheels a little (not a lot) and give you better adhesion to the gun deck.
If you decide to use a laser deck, such as supplied by www.hismodel,com (this really dresses the kit up), keep in mind that that the laser deck is 3mm thick and will have effect on the captain's quarters fitting beneath the spar deck. To avoid fitting problems here, lay the deck in but unglued, mark the deck at the wall leading to the captain's quarters and cut it there before gluing in. I didnot use the laser deck in the captain's quarters on this build, but put in a very thin green felt cloth, looks like the captain has green carpets on his deck. I did the same for the "sofa", using red cloth on the seat cushion. (If you use a laser deck, there is a ridge you will have to shave off on the gun deck) ($108.70 for the laser deck, including shipping, up to two weeks delivery)
You do not need to use the gun port lids, as they were only used when sailing in rough seas, otherwise the ports being left open to aid ventilation, with the port lids stored below. This will save a lot of frustrating work. If you decide to forgo the lids, use putty to fill in the hinge depressions.
Tooth picks make excellent tampions for your guns, put them in as far as they will go then cut them off, paint the ends, add a little Aleen's to them and reinsert...viols, excellent tampions!
The kit supplied eye bolts suck, as they break! It is easy to replace them by taking a proper gauge of copper wire (Hobby Lobby) and, using a pair of pliers, twisting them around a nail of the proper gauge, using super glue to attach them...not the thin super glue though.
Hope you enjoyed your birthday!
When you get to the carronades, here again, wwwhismodel.com has an excellent set of brass carronades and carriages....you have to assemble the carriages. They look much better than the plastic monstrosities you get with the kit. We are on fixed income, so while working on the Connie, we saved what was needed to upgrade and ordered those items when we got to the point of using them.
Using jewelers needles to thread the blocks and dead eyes really simplifies rigging them. The jewelers needles can be gotten at Hobby Lobby, are stainless, and open along the shaft, the line is put into the opened shaft, and pulled through. This really works well! Syrene makes excellent rigging ropes that look and work much better than the kit supplied riggings>
Using jewelers needles to thread the blocks and dead eyes really simplifies rigging them. The jewelers needles can be gotten at Hobby Lobby, are stainless, and open along the shaft, the line is put into the opened shaft, and pulled through. This really works well! Syrene makes excellent rigging ropes that look and work much better than the kit supplied riggings>
Happy belated birthday, pbryan, I would like to see more of your connie.
I could send you a couple. Private message me with your address.
Have a whole bunch of them. Are you aware that the gun ports were usually used in rough seas, otherwise being left off to aid in gun deck ventilation.
Can send you some.
I'm building the 1/96 USS United States right now. In working on the masts and noticed the the trisail mast tha goes behind the mizzen mast is too short. I have the constitution to build as well and the part for that one is the same length. Has anyone else had this problem? It appears as though the bottom of it is about 3/8" short.
Thank you
Beautiful work on the stern painting.
At super markets, you nay be able to find bamboo barbecue skewers that may work. Hobby lobby has various size rods you may be able to find in the proper diameter, as well as local hobby shops.