Hi Peter good to hear from you. Thank you for your kind comments and yes a needle threader is a must with the tiny blocks. It should make working with the larger blocks later on a breeze (maybe).
VASA 490 Build Log - Billing Boats, 1:75 [COMPLETED BUILD]
Thank you !
Daniel, if possible, I will express my opinion. The 2.5mm blocks are really much better and bigger. But the attachment eyelets in the side in this form are too large. Try to take the wire thinner and make the eyelet diameter smaller. Then it will be absolutely fine.
Hi Sasha. You are correct the eyelets are still a little too large, I made them by hand with wire but I'm not sure if I can go much smaller. I will give it a try as I'm not too far into this yet.
Hello, Daniel. If making smaller eyebolts will be a challenging task for your eyes, you can buy them. They are not expencive and can be of different makes. I think Zolly @Dry-Dock Models & Parts offers photoetched eyerings, they come in a variety of sizes. I remember Uwe @Uwek recently acquired some for his build. The second flavor is standard wire eyebolts. Someone (i cannot recall) posted a link on Amazon with many pages to choose from. Different materials and sizes.
For my Turtle ship I used the wire used to close supermarket bread packages that is cover with plastic. Took out the plastic cover and blacken then instantly. Easy, very flexible to made tiny eyebolts under a magnifier glass.
Electric wires of different thickness can also be used.
Daniel
I came across 30 eyelets in the kit that are about 10% smaller than what I had handmade.
Hand made on top kit stock bottom and 2.5mm blocks in center.
Looking at other builds it appears the eyelets are about50 to 60% of the block size the kit supplied look to be 80 to 90% of the block size. Other than the wire itself being just a little thicker than desired, I think I will use the kit supplied and move forward, thanks again for your input @Alexander74, @Jimsky and @Dematosdg , please continue to offer any suggestions as you see fit, I really do appreciate it.
Hand made on top kit stock bottom and 2.5mm blocks in center.
Looking at other builds it appears the eyelets are about50 to 60% of the block size the kit supplied look to be 80 to 90% of the block size. Other than the wire itself being just a little thicker than desired, I think I will use the kit supplied and move forward, thanks again for your input @Alexander74, @Jimsky and @Dematosdg , please continue to offer any suggestions as you see fit, I really do appreciate it.
Daniel,
Here is another suggestion regarding threading very small blocks. The issue I have with needle threaders is that they require that you probably have to use threads that are, scale-wise, possibly too thin, because they (threads) need to be doubled through the eyelet (doubtful that eyelets will even work for such small blocks or deadeyes).
Here is what I have used for my last two builds: this works so perfectly for super tiny blocks. Even easier for larger deadeyes and rigging blocks. Hope that this is helpful. For me this way of adding ropes helped in using larger more in scale ropes IMO... PS: I prep. all ropes first then just -"factory" - along rope by rope through each block
I also have a simple technique for making eyelets smaller -- I can post if you think that might be useful.
Regards
Here is another suggestion regarding threading very small blocks. The issue I have with needle threaders is that they require that you probably have to use threads that are, scale-wise, possibly too thin, because they (threads) need to be doubled through the eyelet (doubtful that eyelets will even work for such small blocks or deadeyes).
Here is what I have used for my last two builds: this works so perfectly for super tiny blocks. Even easier for larger deadeyes and rigging blocks. Hope that this is helpful. For me this way of adding ropes helped in using larger more in scale ropes IMO... PS: I prep. all ropes first then just -"factory" - along rope by rope through each block
I also have a simple technique for making eyelets smaller -- I can post if you think that might be useful.
Regards
Hello John,
Thank you for the tip. I have actually used both techniques before on larger blocks and it works great. For now I'm using a heavy duty needle threader
and pulling a 3x2 tara80 rope I made. That actually works fairly well as long as I grip the pullers wires when pulling or else they just pull out of the holder.
I would like to see your technique for making eyelets smaller. I Have done that also by just cutting some of the rounded part off and closing the loop to a smaller dia. with pliers. I should invest in a new set of micro drill bits. I probably could ream out the existing block (what a few thousands only though) which would help.
Daniel here is one example of how I made very tiny eyelets. for this example, a 28Gouge (about 0.32mm) brass wire was used. I took a 0.4mm drill bit and twits the wire tight to create an eyebolt. I made it just now, so it might not be that accurate. but should have an idea.
Jim that looks excellent the OD right at 1mm. With some practice I believe I could get there however I think I'll stay with the 2mm OD from the kit. The scale will be off some (I guess 50%). I'll wait and see how much it bothers me, right now I'm a little less than half finished.
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Hello Jim,I do not have Eyebolts yet
Good morning I have a canon update. I finally managed to complete the canon rigging and installation even with those 2.5mm blocks. All the remaining block work will seem huge after dealing with the tiny things. The canon barrel extension beyond the outer hull has been reduced to just barley sticking out. This is the result of an unintended consequence from installing a 'box' along the inside bulwarks at the base of the railing. So the scale has once again been thrown off by my not planning ahead. At any rate I am pleased with the overall effect. I hope you all enjoy the visit, until next time happy modeling!
Brilliant Daniel! Congratulations on a fantastic result!
Thank you Paul. Now that I'm over the shock of working with micro blocks, I look forward with excitement toward the top work.
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Very very good work Daniel! Your deck looks beautiful! Your cannons protrude exactly the same distance out from the hull than mine - and the box which prevents you from moving the cannons closer to the bulwarks is exactly how it should be!
Thank you Heinrich, working with such tiny sheave blocks then getting votes of approval from among some of the top builders such as yourself is a real confidence builder to me.
Daniel, excellent job of strapping the implements. Only the gun carriages look disproportionately larger than the guns themselves. I understand that this is how it is done in the kit, this is definitely not your fault. But it catches the eye. I don’t think that something needs to be changed, but considering how your level of work has risen, I ask you to take into account such nuances on the following models. I repeat: the work is excellent. 