Dear Friends
A little while ago I acquired the Falkonet Longboat Kit (the 20-oar version), because I wanted a more detailed longboat for the Haarlem . My posts about this created widespread interest. Among those who responded was Ab Hoving, well-known authority on Dutch ships, who pointed out that the Falkonet would not be historically correct for the Haarlem. As a result, Ab sent me the detailed plans and drawings for the Dutch “Chaloup” longboat as it would have been used on Dutch ships of the seventeeth century - like the Haarlem. These plans are currently being reworked and brought to scale, so more about that when they are ready.
As you all know I intend to install 6 cannons on the deck of the Haarlem which will require quite a bit of reworking the wales and organising the deck space available. As the longboat is also housed on this section of the deck, I thought that it a good idea to construct that first to see exactly what space I have available for the cannons.
Whereas a number of forum members are very familiar with the Falkonet and Master Korabel longboats having built them before, to me it was first time around. At this point I have to mention that SOS member
@TKAM has been invaluable in this build. He has just finished the Falkonet longboat for his superb Rattlesnake and very graciously and kindly offered me his help. Thanks TKAM - it is much appreciated!
So, with the pre-amble out of the way, let’s make some sawdust as I will explain the build step-by-step.
The false keel assembly comes in two parts - the false keel itself to which the separate bow section is glued. Note the dotted line at the bottom of the keel. I will discuss its function later.
Next up are the two pieces of rising wood which have to be bevelled before they can be attcahed to the keel. Falkonet actually supplies 4 of these pieces - two as spares. The pieces are clearly marked with a line up to where it meeds to be bevelled, so this can be done with great accuracy. I used a jeweller’s diamond file for this and it went very quickly.
Port Side
Starboard Side.
There are also two pieces of deadwood that are shaped and placed at the stern, but of that I have unfortunately omitted to take pictures. Apologies!
For the onstruction of the frame a jig and “guide” (for want of a better word) are supplied.
The guide has three tabs which are glued into the corresponding holes in the jig. No guesswork is required here as the guide can only fit in one possible way.
The guide is glued into the jig.
The 24 x bulkheads are clearly marked and are inserted upside down into the jig. NB!!! DO NOT GLUE THE BULKHEADS TO THE JIG !!!
This little exercise was a revelation to me as absolutely NO SANDING, FILING or TAMPERING of any kind was required to ensure the proper fitment of the bulkheads into the jig.
As you can see, the slots in which the false keel needs to inserted are perfectly aligned. Given the way in which the bulkheads fitted into the jig, I was expecting this, but it was nevertheless great to see it pan out in the flesh! Kudos Falkonet!
The next step shows the false keel inserted into the bulkhead slots while the bow section of the keel fits into its own slot at the bow-end of the jig.
The instructions stipulate that the false keel should only be glued to the last four bulkheads (at the stern), but following TKAM's advice, I glued all bulkheads to the false keel.
As you can see, the keel is arrow-straight and 100% warp free.
The last piece of the frame that needs to be fitted is the rear transom which also needs to be faired up to the line inscribed on it. This will obviously facilitate ease of planking later.
That concludes the first phase of the construction. The next step is the gluing of the ribs to the bulkheads and then the planking of the hull can start.
Take care everyone - stay safe and enjoy your shipbuilding.
Kind regards - Heinrich