YQ Bluenose Ted R

RDN1954 said:
I used undiluted stain and a semi-gloss varnish, water based.
Stain has to be applied very carefully to ensure even distribution. Often two or three layers are necessary to obtain the required result.
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What brand of stain do you use
Ted
 
GrantTyler said:
Good afternoon Ted. Little by little she is coming together very well. My personal preference with poly /stain is to go for a clear Matt option especially if you have that lovely pear wood to show off…....as you say personal preference. Cheers Grant
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I agree. I'm so disappointed.
The minwax stain failed a glueing test after application.
I bought the water based poly
What brand of stain is safe to use and still be able to glue over it
Ted
 
I'm at a total loss. Testing the water based stain for being able to glue over it failed.
I used minwax water based poly stain. I want to staina d finish the lower Deck beams and frame interiors prior to installing the finish deck. Access is already hampered.
What brand stain is safe tous
Please help.
Ted
 
Ted Robinson said:
I'm at a total loss. Testing the water based stain for being able to glue over it failed.
I used minwax water based poly stain. I want to staina d finish the lower Deck beams and frame interiors prior to installing the finish deck. Access is already hampered.
What brand stain is safe tous
Please help.
Ted
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Can't help you there, I had little to no issues with bonding, but if you used poly on top of the stain you might run into this issue.
 
If you're interested, post # 230 from my log describes what I used for stain & topcoat as well as how I used it.

PS. As personal insurance to myself I never stained, or matte coated anything until I was finished with the glueing. Not an easy thing to do but it is doable.
 
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Ted Robinson said:
I'm at a total loss. Testing the water based stain for being able to glue over it failed.
I used minwax water based poly stain. I want to staina d finish the lower Deck beams and frame interiors prior to installing the finish deck. Access is already hampered.
What brand stain is safe tous
Please help.
Ted
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For me it is clean: don’t stain the parts where you still have to glue.
For my build it was more the clear, I use linseed olie.
So, about other types I can’t give you a advice.
Regards, Peter
 
Daniel20 said:
If you're interested, post # 230 from my log describes what I used for stain & topcoat as well as how I used it.

PS. As personal insurance to myself I never stained, or matte coated anything until I was finished with the glueing. Not an easy thing to do but it is doable.
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Thank you. I'll look at it
Ted
 
Peter Voogt said:
For me it is clean: don’t stain the parts where you still have to glue.
For my build it was more the clear, I use linseed olie.
So, about other types I can’t give you a advice.
Regards, Peter
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Thank you.
I rqb a second glue test on scraps that had been coated with only the poly top coat.
No problems. The minwax water based poly has to be the problem. The color is custom mixed at the store.
I'm left with the conclusion that the colorant added to the stain must be oil based or interfering with the glue in some other manner.
Best regards
Ted
 
I did some further testing and the ability to glue is not reliable after using minwax.
I've agonized over this for a couple of days
I have decided to get on with the build and use an oil finish after planking.
Back to the joy of ship modeling.
Ted
 
Peter Voogt said:
For me it is clean: don’t stain the parts where you still have to glue.
For my build it was more the clear, I use linseed olie.
So, about other types I can’t give you a advice.
Regards, Peter
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Good afternoon Ted. I am with Peter. I sometimes have to sand a small area with a tiny sanding stick if I have put poly on before and need to glue. CA glue(gorilla) does hold however it can be messy if one gets it wrong. Cheers Grant
 
I did some further testing and got moderate adhesion when left for 24 hours. That's with both stain and top coat or just top coat.
I'm afraid to take a chance on the model becoming weaker in the future. My audience besides you gentlemen is my wife. She doesn't see. The details to the same level we do. My life expectancy is not that great at this point and my better half sees that s model as a memorial of sorts she can associate with memories of me.
Not to be maudlin,
Best regards
Ted
 
Ted Robinson said:
My audience besides you gentlemen is my wife. She doesn't see. The details to the same level we do. My life expectancy is not that great at this point and my better half sees that s model as a memorial of sorts she can associate with memories of me.
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There is no better reason for the continuing of your build than what you just wrote, Ted. What a grand gesture to your Admiral.
Regards, Peter
 
I'm working on parts 24-28. I knew this was going to be a nightmare after having to use a razor saw to remove the frames for the major rebuild earlier. I'm going to get them installed even if I have to do a little notching. I can then do repairs. I believe these parts get painted if I remember correctly from Paul's YouTube videos.
Ted
 
I got parts 27-29 on the starboard side fitted without to much of a problem. I have to do some filling aka Paul Lester. No parts are glued yet. I'm not quite sure how the terminations are supposed to fit. The photos are a little blurry and the plans have other parts installed covering these areas. I will spend some time this morning reading the other build logs.
Happy builder here,
Ted 17188902802918338849274428308754.jpg
 
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