- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,943
- Points
- 688
If the SA slang meaning of "doos" is similar to the Dutch slang; no Grant, we better behave...
-
"2025 Annual SOS Donation Drive Underway"
Please consider making a Donation to SOS to support our continuing growth and developement. It is greatly appreciated !!!
*** Read More - - Click Here ***
https://www.paypal.me/DonateSOS
HMS Victory Mantua 1:78 (first build) by Grant Tyler
- Thread starter GrantTyler
- Start date
- Watchers 103
- Joined
- Sep 3, 2021
- Messages
- 4,943
- Points
- 688
Sure like your little models, nicely crafted!Good morning. I have been working on the Victory boats. For the Pinnace I started the gold strips on the water wash. Used masking tape cut to size and painted gold. Also started the paint details to the oars and cut a rudder (smaller than kit was too big).WIP.
View attachment 309301
The Launch has been built over the past weeks, bashing the kit in a similar manner to the Pinnace. I have used the Caldercraft drawings and other builds to try and find something a little more resembling the launch than the kit. I decided not to stain the Launch And Barge as these will be on the deck of the Victory, while the Pinnace and the cutter (also dark stain) will be hung from the quarter Davits. Simply put- I don’t like the dark stain when on the deck.
Launch to date:
View attachment 309300View attachment 309302View attachment 309303
Basically scratch built. The windlass I made a octagon from a 3mm dowel (well sort of an octagon) and the mast fittings from 2x2 birch stained. The ribs and seat fitting strakes are cardboard. TIP: (don’t dye your hair green
)- seriously think ahead- I fitted the windlass and then attempted to add the rope and coil. Would have been easier if I did this prior to fitting the windlass. The sailor who did that coil is not having rum for a while for sure
Now for details on both and loads of paintwork and light poly- From my disappointment of the kit boats to now I am happy and holding thumbs they will look good enough for Grants Victory
Cheers Grant
Good morning Ron. I was away and unfortunately did not see that. I’ve been a Ferrari man my whole life just supported Max with all my soul last year just to beat Lewis! I’m back in red and Charl is my man.....going to be good today
.
Good Morning Paul. So true. It is a wonderful to see friends from all over the world, across different languages, cultures, ages brought together by little ships. Truely something to be treasured.
Thank you my gift Paul.It is much appreciated.
Cheers Grant
Good morning Heinrich.Thank you. I agree although the dark stain does look good from the quarter Davits. The Victory lifeboats color scheme changed many times during its long life. I guess I have an excuse to be selective. I have decided to to the painting of the hulls as per the modern ship in Portsmouth.The dark stain of the deck etc is way earlier tho so in keeping with my Victory it is a bit of mix and match
. Cheers Grant
Thanks Johann.
Good morning. As I said back to rigging...well more blocks.
The driver boom and gaff.
Firstly had to add the lift blocks to the Mizzen mast :
The Driver boom: 2 rope walks(Horse) where made using 0.5mm rope with a “granny “ knot added every 1cm and whipped to the boom. A 5mm double sheave block was used for the sheet tackle. I made the little “u block” which holds these. Kept breaking as the walnut is very brittle. Probably just very old.
The lift ropes, vangs and horse attached at end of boom.
The gaff : 3mm single sheave blocks for the topgallant and topmast yard braces together with a5mm double sheave for forward lift are added.
I used the kit jaws and I am not sure I’m going to stick with these. I need to add parral and these look too thin. Will see.
Cheers Grant
The driver boom and gaff.
Firstly had to add the lift blocks to the Mizzen mast :
The Driver boom: 2 rope walks(Horse) where made using 0.5mm rope with a “granny “ knot added every 1cm and whipped to the boom. A 5mm double sheave block was used for the sheet tackle. I made the little “u block” which holds these. Kept breaking as the walnut is very brittle. Probably just very old.
The lift ropes, vangs and horse attached at end of boom.
The gaff : 3mm single sheave blocks for the topgallant and topmast yard braces together with a5mm double sheave for forward lift are added.
I used the kit jaws and I am not sure I’m going to stick with these. I need to add parral and these look too thin. Will see.
Cheers Grant
Grant your work is wonderfully detail driven, I'm just lovin it!
That is a result I too hope to achieve, but still a loooong way to go. She is looking great.Good morning
Thank you Jan, Heinrich,Vic, Paul,Ron and Rob.
Rob, @Robp1025 even Arlene(the Admiral) is now getting to the point where maybe Grants Victory is allowed to be placed in our dinning room when I complete her...now that is the biggest compliment I have had to date...
Hello Johann. Photography skills . Place on paper and use iPhone. I’m often embarrassed by those guys who have backings etc... thanks tho
Ratlines..... what are those. I’ve been delaying for ever
. Maybe you have given me a kick in the pants with your post. Got to do them sometime....don’t I? Cheers Grant
Good morning Daniel- Thanks. Your comments always appreciated.
Good morning. I always thank guys who comment and give advice and critique of my ship however I do appreciate those who have looked and liked. Grateful no thumbs down on that menu....Cheers Grant
.Cheers Grant
Perhaps you noticed that the sirens never call out for ratlines. I'm certain that accounts for the delay...Hello Johann. Photography skills . Place on paper and use iPhone. I’m often embarrassed by those guys who have backings etc... thanks tho
Good morning Paul- True story
. The main reason for me not attempting these is indecision. The Portsmouth Victory has hemp colored ratlines :
Most builds I have used as a reference have gone with this, however I find it overpowering on the small scale ships and all you see is “off white” ratlines. There is much debate about wether this was the correct color in 1700-1800,s due to the tar effect of the ropes. Black is out and a blackish brown to dark brown seems to be the more accepted thought- as with most ships of the day.
The other thought in my delay process is the width of the thread for my scale and the spacing between each ratline. The instructions are clearly incorrect on both accounts - too thick and to wide a spacing.
I am also debating wether I want straight ratlines or slightly looser with a “loop” effect which many suggest being more authentic. (Probably beyond my skill level to get uniformed “loops”.)
I have gone through your ratline posts again and there is much to process there- super helpful
.OK you are correct- these are just excuses as the sirens don’t sing the ratline song.
Cheers Grant
Grant, hi. The distance between the fades is 12-13 inches. On your scale, it's about 4 mm. The diameter of the bleed is almost 0.2 mm.Good morning Paul- True story
View attachment 310089
Most builds I have used as a reference have gone with this, however I find it overpowering on the small scale ships and all you see is “off white” ratlines. There is much debate about wether this was the correct color in 1700-1800,s due to the tar effect of the ropes. Black is out and a blackish brown to dark brown seems to be the more accepted thought- as with most ships of the day.
The other thought in my delay process is the width of the thread for my scale and the spacing between each ratline. The instructions are clearly incorrect on both accounts - too thick and to wide a spacing.
I am also debating wether I want straight ratlines or slightly looser with a “loop” effect which many suggest being more authentic. (Probably beyond my skill level to get uniformed “loops”.)
I have gone through your ratline posts again and there is much to process there- super helpful
OK you are correct- these are just excuses as the sirens don’t sing the ratline song.
Cheers Grant
- Joined
- Oct 17, 2020
- Messages
- 1,589
- Points
- 438
Hello Grant, if you allow me a thought of mine Thanks, the reliable sources are only manuscripts after which it is all diluted water (fake). regardsGood morning Paul- True story
View attachment 310089
Most builds I have used as a reference have gone with this, however I find it overpowering on the small scale ships and all you see is “off white” ratlines. There is much debate about wether this was the correct color in 1700-1800,s due to the tar effect of the ropes. Black is out and a blackish brown to dark brown seems to be the more accepted thought- as with most ships of the day.
The other thought in my delay process is the width of the thread for my scale and the spacing between each ratline. The instructions are clearly incorrect on both accounts - too thick and to wide a spacing.
I am also debating wether I want straight ratlines or slightly looser with a “loop” effect which many suggest being more authentic. (Probably beyond my skill level to get uniformed “loops”.)
I have gone through your ratline posts again and there is much to process there- super helpful
OK you are correct- these are just excuses as the sirens don’t sing the ratline song.
Cheers Grant
Good morning Frank- too true. I often wonder why so much debate goes around where opinion becomes “fact”. I think the availability of the historical manuscript is a reason for this and people just being people.
For my ship (which from start is just my attempt at building a model ship - as mentioned before just “Grants Victory “) I do like reading the debates and choose what I think suites my ship. The more I go the more I enjoy looking at history and more accurate documentary. I will be doing my next build more accurate with more authentic references. A project for another day.
Cheers Grant
Good morning Sasha. Thanks for this. I now know the terms as well. Appreciate it. Cheers Grant