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HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

From the above color chart indication, I thought that the CLOU Medium stain was the one to go for. I subsequently mixed the 5 grams of CLOU powder stain with 250ml of hot water. The mix was instantaneous and no shaking or stirring whatsoever was required.

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Mixed, I had my doubts as it looked very dark, almost black in the glass bottle. However, I poured a little on a nice soft cloth and wiped it onto my test piece of oak. The result?

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In my book - and I might add, in the Admiral's - it was just WOW! A deep, golden, honey colored effect - which was exactly what I had in mind and had hoped for. Bear in mind, that this was after only one layer.

Matched to Ab's model, you will see that I am close ... very close ...

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And when you take into account that Ab used Pear Wood for the construction of his model, while I used oak, I don't think we can get any closer!

Please let me know your thoughts! :)
 
Hi Heinrich. When you and your Admiral had the WOW at first sight, then it is right! So we did after applying on my testpiece, and again on my BN, with the linseed oil.
Most of all it’s depending on what kind of wood is used. On the oak it looks warm en deep.
What I see on my (Apple) screen: it looks very nice. I suppose it’s also changing in colordepth by changing the light?
Regards, Peter
 
Hi Heinrich. When you and your Admiral had the WOW at first sight, then it is right! So we did after applying on my testpiece, and again on my BN, with the linseed oil.
Most of all it’s depending on what kind of wood is used. On the oak it looks warm en deep.
What I see on my (Apple) screen: it looks very nice. I suppose it’s also changing in colordepth by changing the light?
Regards, Peter
Thank you for sharing your personal experience, Peter - this is after all very much a case of personal taste. The CLOU beits is specifically for oak wood so it matches the oak very well - and yes, it does change the depth of color as the light changes. Now I need to see how the Kolderstok paint adheres to it when I paint over it, but so far, the first test went well.
 
Seeing the bottle you used for mixing, don’t make the mistake of drinking it!

The color looks superb!
Hans I thought to myself - whoever drinks this thinking he/she is getting Starbucks Frappuccino, will get the (nasty) surprise of a lifetime. I agree - I also think that color looks superb! Thumbsup And being water-based, it is almost dry immediately. Now I just need to see if I can paint over it with the Kolderstok paint (where the white below the hull meets up with the unpainted oak).
 
That was a beautifull color, what came up after you put the CLOU on the wood Heinrich, that is a WOW for sure
I agree my friend. As a rule, Admiral Anna does not like any kind of finish - she prefers just the natural wood colors - but this one she liked very much. The funny thing is that if you apply the stain with a brush, it doesn't look as good as when you wipe it on with a cloth. The cloth creates a very smooth and warm color.
 
Heinrich, I do love the finish of the wood. Very warm and deep for a medium hue color. I do wish Clou was available in the US. I've tried to find it and/or substitutes. I'm still searching.

I too thought you were holding a Starbuck's Espresso drink, till I read "Frappuccino". Then I knew what it was. ROTF
 
I think you have found a great base to enhance the OAK look. Nicely done.
Hi Jan, I also think that this will work well on the Oak. It is very subtle, yet distinctive and the nice thing is that it shouldn't affect anything that still needs to be glued or affixed to the hull. That is a major drawback of the Tung Oil.
 
Heinrich, I do love the finish of the wood. Very warm and deep for a medium hue color. I do wish Clou was available in the US. I've tried to find it and/or substitutes. I'm still searching.

I too thought you were holding a Starbuck's Espresso drink, till I read "Frappuccino". Then I knew what it was. ROTF
Thanks, Ken. I am glad that you also like the wood tones that the CLOU brings out. @Jimsky and I earlier discussed the availability of CLOU in the USA. According to Jim, CLOU stains and other oil-based products, are available in the USA - just not the sanding sealer.
 
Exactly Roger. I mix in 250 ml total quantity at a time as this seems to be the size of most measuring cups that I can find here. That does mean that I unfortunately "waste" a lot of tung oil and turpentine, but since my supply of Tung Oil is virtually limitless, that's no problem. I wish I could send you some of my Tung Oil - that is the real thing!
Thanks again Heinrich. I can get 100% tung oil here that is stated to be pure. It’s advertised as “China wood oil“ too so I have to assume it’s the real thing. Lots of experimenting in my near future :) .
 
Thanks again Heinrich. I can get 100% tung oil here that is stated to be pure. It’s advertised as “China wood oil“ too so I have to assume it’s the real thing. Lots of experimenting in my near future :) .
That China Wood Oil sounds right, Roger. Look, to be honest with you, I do not think there is any finish in the world that can hold the candle to 100% Tung Oil. The problem though is that applying Tung Oil is not a once-off thing. You have to see it as a process where it has to be re-applied periodically. As the Tung gradually saturates the wood (and that takes ages), the gap in between each re-application gets progressively longer, but it never stops. I suppose you have to view Tung Oil more as a wood treatment than a finish. The other big drawback is that glue will not adhere to 100% Tung oil, so that can only be applied right at the very end.
 
Thanks, Ken. I am glad that you also like the wood tones that the CLOU brings out. @Jimsky and I earlier discussed the availability of CLOU in the USA. According to Jim, CLOU stains and other oil-based products, are available in the USA - just not the sanding sealer.
This is correct. In the USA we have some selections of Clou products including stains

 
That China Wood Oil sounds right, Roger. Look, to be honest with you, I do not think there is any finish in the world that can hold the candle to 100% Tung Oil. The problem though is that applying Tung Oil is not a once-off thing. You have to see it as a process where it has to be re-applied periodically. As the Tung gradually saturates the wood (and that takes ages), the gap in between each re-application gets progressively longer, but it never stops. I suppose you have to view Tung Oil more as a wood treatment than a finish. The other big drawback is that glue will not adhere to 100% Tung oil, so that can only be applied right at the very end.
Good information to know, thanks. I hadn’t considered the matter of re-application but what you write makes a lot of sense.
 
Thank you very much, Jim. That gives our members more options when it comes to finishing their models. Thumbsup
In addition, I'd like to mention another great finishing product for wood available in the USA - OSMO

 
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