|
**VIEW THREAD HERE** |
Thank you, Peter! The finishing potential is also one of the reasons why i went with the Pear. Being 1.5mm thick, it can be scraped and sanded properly. The other advantage is that I think it is going to give me a slightly "weathered" look without any weathering.Always nice to see another (YQ-)Pear Wood deck, Heinrich. No matter on what ship …..You can sand and polish it as smooth as …… whatever you like.
Regards, Peter
I realise you're not building a scratch model, it's just that I had to experience the hard way myself, that everything being done earlier in a build (and that extends to the design of a kit) has consequences for the rest of your build.
Thank you for the support, Johan - I welcome and appreciate that!
If only I did not have to mount the front wall on top of the raised platform, things would have been relatively simple. However, that would mean the raised platform would obstruct the opening of the doors which would look amateurish. Whether I have found a solution - I don't think so. Whether I have a successful simulation is the one I'm going for! 
I don't think so Heinrich, this looks excellent, and i am looking forward to see it scraped and in the oil, ( or varnish )
There is something satisfying about planking a deck, one board at a time. Like putting down a miniature wood floor. She will look fabulous in the end!
Thank you, my friend! The Pear wood is a first time for me, so I am anxious to see what it will look like in the end.
Thank you for the vote of confidence, my friend! I agree wholeheartedly with your sentiments about deck planking. There is something therapeutic to me about it - it calms the mind to see it slowly gathering shape.There is something satisfying about planking a deck, one board at a time. Like putting down a miniature wood floor. She will look fabulous in the end!
Thank you very much, Paul. As you know, the random deck planking was a hallmark of the Dutch ships. You ask a very good question about the fake butt joints. Up to this point I wasn't overly perturbed by it, for the very reason that you suggested.
. That deck will turn out to be as visually appealing as the rest of your build. I am particularly interested in how you will finish the pear wood.
Thank you so much Roger! I am so happy that the Dutch chose a random planking pattern as I can never hope to achieve the level of precision that you have shown with planking the Syren's deck - what a beautiful ship your Syren is turning out to be. As to the thought processes, I honestly thought I had it nailed, but over the weekend two things have come to light (one of them is quite serious) which has challenged my whole design layout at the stern.After a few days away I can now catch up with your exceptional build. Firstly, and a little late, I’m glad to read the typhoon passed through and you and your wife are safe.
It is very interesting to follow your thought processes and solutions for the various structures, platforms, etc. I have an obvious affinity for the pear deck you are laying. It looks great and I find I am a little envious of the Dutch method of random planking
……. As the deck finish, I will still have to think long and hard about that and do various tests. I love the CLOU but using that is not going to give me any contrast with the rest of the deck fittings. Tung Oil (a perennial favorite of mine) may also result in a deck that is too dark. In summary, at this point, I do not have a cooking clue as to what I will use!
.
Hi Roger. On my sampan (Pear Wood) this was the effect after approximately 3 coats of Tung Oil.Even within your own log you are supportive of others with your comments and generous compliments, thank you.
After following previous posts of yours I recently purchased 100% pure tung oil. While in the store the “knowledgable“ sales guy suggested I also use tung sealer. He initially advised 50% sealer to 50% oil but then suggested sealing the pear first (with the tung sealer). I left the store a little unsure so I’m also going to experiment on scrap pear wood with different mixes/methods, especially after your observation the tung may darken the deck. Possibly the tung sealer will not darken the wood too much thus allowing the ‘top coat’ of tung oil to be applied without darkening. Not sure yet or as you say “not a cooking clue”,
One hundred percent correct Stephan. That is why I showed the two different types (Sampan = steamed; Leudo = unsteamed). I am not sure which variety @RogerD is using. I think I need to call in our Bluenose builders (@Peter Voogt Peter and @RDN1954 Johan) for their opinion!
Well, Heinrich. On my BN pear wood deck I used linseed oil, applied rubbing with a cloth.One hundred percent correct Stephan. That is why I showed the two different types (Sampan = steamed; Leudo = unsteamed). I am not sure which variety @RogerD is using. I think I need to call in our Bluenose builders (@Peter Voogt Peter and @RDN1954 Johan) for their opinion!
Thank you very much for your input, Peter. On all accounts from fellow modelers who have seen your Bluenose, it is exquisite in real life and looking at the pictures, it obviously is. As I am also using the Bluenose's planking, it gives me a great idea of what it will look like. The contrasting shades of the Pear wood show up beautifully with the Linseed oil which would suggest that the same type of finish is also likely with the Tung Oil.
I think, but am not sure, that the pear I am using is steamed. The billets have a pinkish colour but I’ll try to find out for sure.One hundred percent correct Stephan. That is why I showed the two different types (Sampan = steamed; Leudo = unsteamed). I am not sure which variety @RogerD is using. I think I need to call in our Bluenose builders (@Peter Voogt Peter and @RDN1954 Johan) for their opinion!
