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HMS Medea (28) (1778) 1/48 scratch build

A long time between drinks, but I have been busy making chain plates, rope and preparing for the shrouds on the foremast. There is quite a story behind my beginning the rigging and I will relate it in a day or two. ;)

Not museum quality but my first (and probably last) attempt and I have enough confidence now to continue until the foremast is fully rigged.

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I tried really hard to do the lashing above each deadeye but with .25mm poly thread required for the scale it was taking me too many tear downs and re-does and in the finish I resorted to super glue and now I have asthma again (despite wearing PPE). I worked on trying to get the deadeyes level as well, but in the end I had to accept that with a working ship at sea there would ultimately be differences in height due to stretching of shrouds over time.

Next job is the spreaders (?) for the shrouds and then the hundreds of clove hitches for the ratlines.
 
I worked on trying to get the deadeyes level as well, but in the end I had to accept that with a working ship at sea there would ultimately be differences in height due to stretching of shrouds over time.
I use the jig in the photo to keep the deadeyes in line. I nail the deadeyes to the jig and tie the shrouds to the deadeyes in this position and then remove the tied deadeye from the jig. You can try this jig on main and mizzen mast.

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I use the jig in the photo to keep the deadeyes in line. I nail the deadeyes to the jig and tie the shrouds to the deadeyes in this position and then remove the tied deadeye from the jig. You can try this jig on main and mizzen mast.

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That looks like a great idea. It would certainly have helped me and I can see how it would have helped with the lacing as well. Thanks for sharing. In fact, I think I might even do the foremast again if my effort annoys me enough!!
 
Hi Ian,

Looks good! FYI there are CA's that are free from off-gassing and that I am able to use without a reaction. I'm sure you could find something in OZ.

Here is an example: https://www.amazon.com/Super-gold-t...00DD1QJ&psc=1&ref_=pd_bap_d_grid_rp_0_45_pr_i
Thanks Paul. I will look into it. I have tried many brands and I'm beginning to suspect my asthma may be caused by my psychological reaction to dangerous chemicals. I've had a lot of exposure over many years as a farmer and it doesn't take much to set me off these days.
 
OK. Time to spill the beans...

Soon after I published Champion of the Quarterdeck: Admiral Sir Erasmus Gower 1742-1814, I was fortunate to receive a favourable book review from leading naval historian, Professor Emeritus John B Hattendorf, in the US Naval War College Review. https://digital-commons.usnwc.edu/nwc-review/vol72/iss3/13

Despite John’s busy schedule and our mutual health setbacks, we continued to correspond and in May 2018, I wrote:

My wife and I are preparing to downsize and move into a retirement complex and I intend to embark on another episode of messing about in boats - to build a scale model of HMS Medea (28) on the plans of Enterprise. As I'm already doubtful of my ability to properly rig such a craft when complete, I have decided to omit the main and mizzen masts and toss a tangle of sails and rigging over the side - just as Medea might have looked after being dis-masted in 1783. Messing about in boats indeed!

John replied soon after, adding this footnote:

Best wishes for the scale model of Medea. That sounds like a delightful challenge. Your solution to the rigging problem is brilliant.

So this has been my plan all along. I have practised my shaky skills on the port side of my build, then attempted to show a respectable interpretation on the starboard side for display.

Having struggled mightily with the shrouds of the foremast, my decision made years ago now feels right. I am developing a diorama of Medea as she was in December 1783 after a severe storm off the Azores. The main mast will be broken off half way up. The mizzen will be broken close to the quarterdeck and all that rigging, sails and 30 men will be cast into the sea on the port side.

Something different, but also something which has continued to satisfy my curiosity and has lead me into this friendly, knowledgeable and skillful group we call Ships of Scale.

Onward and overboard!
 
Concur with Professor Hattendorf on your solution: Brilliant!

It will be fascinating to see how you show/depict the mess of lines, spars, topmasts, pulleys, etc that would be the result.

It's quite probably that some was cut away and cast adrift, but much was recovered to the deck to facilitate makeshift repairs enroute to safe harbor. This post battle/storm damage is where the Boatswains earned their pay!!!

Look forward to following your new endeavor!
 
Concur with Professor Hattendorf on your solution: Brilliant!

It will be fascinating to see how you show/depict the mess of lines, spars, topmasts, pulleys, etc that would be the result.

It's quite probably that some was cut away and cast adrift, but much was recovered to the deck to facilitate makeshift repairs enroute to safe harbor. This post battle/storm damage is where the Boatswains earned their pay!!!

Look forward to following your new endeavor!
Thanks Brad. My project doesn't have full support from my family yet but they will yield eventually. I still have to do a fair amount of rigging to make the wreck look realistic so in the end it might be harder than doing a standard model!
 
Thanks Brad. My project doesn't have full support from my family yet but they will yield eventually. I still have to do a fair amount of rigging to make the wreck look realistic so in the end it might be harder than doing a standard model!
I understand you don't want to mess with the standard rigging equipment too much, but I think it would be harder to make it look wrecked. :)
 
In case you think I had died, I've finally got an update for my scratch built Medea.

I knew I would struggle with the rigging as I have little feeling in my hands and I'm still learning to use tweezers. (I never had these problems in my little blacksmith shop on the farm, but that might have contributed to my hand problems).

You will notice that the cathead is marked 'P' (the one on the other side is marked 'S'). This could denote Port and Starboard, but in my case it means 'Practice' and 'Satisfied'. Because I've never done any of this before, I practice on the Port side and once I've learnt a bit I do it on the Starboard side until I'm satisfied.
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It all needs tightening up and a bit of dilute PVA to hold ropes in shape.
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I really struggled with the ratlines but I think I can improve enough to do the Starboard side satisfactorily for viewing, and after that it will all be a tangle across the deck and over the side for the Main and Mizzen rigging.
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IMG20251010212648.jpg A close up before the lashing was finished.

I'm going to attempt to re-do the dead-eyes on the Starboard side to get them nearer to level and lashed correctly. I seem to have lost my way with some of the lashings!!

So I'm back on deck and keen to progress the build to the best of my limited ability.

Thanks for watching.
 
Doesn't look like your wonderful results are the result of a struggle but more the results of patience, plus self-guided on the job training!!

If you are redoing the deadeye lines, look at the attached photo and consider using slightly larger diameter line. With my limited knowledge, intuition says the line you used is slightly smaller diameter than what should be used.

Another hint Uwe told me when I was rigging deadeyes was to file three small grooves for the lines to rest in.

I look forward to more posts on this wonderful build....we missed your updates!!!!
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Doesn't look like your wonderful results are the result of a struggle but more the results of patience, plus self-guided on the job training!!

If you are redoing the deadeye lines, look at the attached photo and consider using slightly larger diameter line. With my limited knowledge, intuition says the line you used is slightly smaller diameter than what should be used.

Another hint Uwe told me when I was rigging deadeyes was to file three small grooves for the lines to rest in.

I look forward to more posts on this wonderful build....we missed your updates!!!!
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Wow Brad. That's some encouragement! I'll do my best, and yes, I will re-do the deadeye lines. Since I did them I found a list of line thicknesses and I can now match the line to the scale. I think they will now be easier with the shrouds firmly in place.

I've always been fascinated by the 'NSW' in your handle. My immediate thought was that you were from New South Wales (think Sydney) but I see that you are in the USA so are you an Aussie originally?
 
Ok, the aquadhere wanted to stick to the acrylic so I have inserted a sheet of oven baking paper between the wood and the acrylic. Going from our bookbinding experience the PVA won't adhere to this paper.

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I am reading this in October 2025, so this comment might be a bit late. I use Gladwrap to stop glue adhering to wooden jig/underlying surfaces. Nothing sticks to Gladwrap in my experience.
 
Wow Brad. That's some encouragement! I'll do my best, and yes, I will re-do the deadeye lines. Since I did them I found a list of line thicknesses and I can now match the line to the scale. I think they will now be easier with the shrouds firmly in place.

I've always been fascinated by the 'NSW' in your handle. My immediate thought was that you were from New South Wales (think Sydney) but I see that you are in the USA so are you an Aussie originally?
Glad my thoughts on the rope thickness match your research!

The NSW is for Naval Special Warfare, not New South Wales (although I love it there)! I've done a few Hash House Harrier runs in different parts of Australia, while working with your special forces.

I spent 21 years in NSW many, many moons ago, in my younger days! ROTF

I was in Darwin with my Task Unit on 9/11...we left in a hurry and bee-lined to AF for several months.
 
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