Just WOW Peter
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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I have been wondering that ever since you started building the holds. Some sort of "claw", like giant ice tongs?
As has been said many times, but bears repeating - your craftsmanship is superb!
Thanks, Russ. During the build and studying the old pictures and documents, I got more and more questions about life and working on those fishing boats. And I got great respect for those men.
Regards, Peter
Now you need to find an "old fisherman" to give up the secret?!?!?How did they do that in real life? Once lashed, how do you get out of the hold? That is worth asking some old fishermen .........
Regards, Peter
Is it possible they ran the bitter end under the last barrel as they rolled it in? It would self-tighten and then the weight of the barrel would hold the hatch shut? Getting the tension correct would seem very difficult though...find that "old salty fisherman" to solve the mystery!
PS: I like your avatar, Russ. We had also a 'White&Red' couple:
Unfortunately both passed away last year.
Regards, Peter
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The heart symbol is included here purely for visual appeal, independent of the surrounding text. It’s one of life’s quiet tragedies that animals are with us for such a short time. Their presence fills our hearts, and their absence leaves an ache all out of proportion to the years they shared with us.
Thank you for your beautiful and heartwarming words, Jim. Very much appreciated!
Regards, Peter
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PS: I like your avatar, Russ. We had also a 'White&Red' couple:
View attachment 514113
Unfortunately both passed away last year.
Regards, Peter
That is such a precious photo Peter. 'Tis true - our friends give us so much unconditional love and joy, but are gone far too soon. I'm sure you will treasure that photo as you do the memories you hold.
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That’s for sure …
Yep, There is an enlargement in our kitchen.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Chuck.
Regards, Peter
Started planking the deck. The intention was to glue the narrow cut grey strips on the sides of the planks. A hopeless task...... 
As a test, 10 planks next to each other on a strip of grey paper clamped with wood glue between the banks and the paper:
After drying, plank by plank, first loosened them a little with a razor blade:
Then cut through the underlying paper with an extra sharpened scalpel blade:
A method that I like.
Started planking on the foredeck:
First made the front plank and the first curved nibble plank against the waterway.
After 2 rows of short planks between the deck openings, I could then lay the first long plank to create a parallel direction to the hatch frame.
As a proven method during the build of my Bluenose: making the planking temporarily removable:
Then it is easier:
-glue each new plank on a flat surface;
-mill edges on the underside to bridge the raised edges of the profiles of the deck openings;
-finish all edges;
-drill the holes under the drill column;
-plug and sand on the worktable.
And on this model of mainly Evergeen I can't press too much on the deck beams.
The planks and plugs lightly sanded:
The planks are 2.65 mm wide and the plugs 0.6 mm.
The front part was made a little wet to see how the plugs and caulking are expressed.
With a better view of the deck openings:
The light cove was also placed to see how the connection is.
PS: A brief explanation of the installation of the planks on the Balder itself. The planks are bolted to the iron deck beams. These bolts are sunk into the planks and the plugs cover the heads of the bolts. So it looks like treenailing ....., it is .... but it isn't ........
Regards, Peter
As a test, 10 planks next to each other on a strip of grey paper clamped with wood glue between the banks and the paper:
After drying, plank by plank, first loosened them a little with a razor blade:
Then cut through the underlying paper with an extra sharpened scalpel blade:
A method that I like.
Started planking on the foredeck:
First made the front plank and the first curved nibble plank against the waterway.
After 2 rows of short planks between the deck openings, I could then lay the first long plank to create a parallel direction to the hatch frame.
As a proven method during the build of my Bluenose: making the planking temporarily removable:
Then it is easier:
-glue each new plank on a flat surface;
-mill edges on the underside to bridge the raised edges of the profiles of the deck openings;
-finish all edges;
-drill the holes under the drill column;
-plug and sand on the worktable.
And on this model of mainly Evergeen I can't press too much on the deck beams.
The planks and plugs lightly sanded:
The planks are 2.65 mm wide and the plugs 0.6 mm.
The front part was made a little wet to see how the plugs and caulking are expressed.
With a better view of the deck openings:
The light cove was also placed to see how the connection is.
PS: A brief explanation of the installation of the planks on the Balder itself. The planks are bolted to the iron deck beams. These bolts are sunk into the planks and the plugs cover the heads of the bolts. So it looks like treenailing ....., it is .... but it isn't ........
Regards, Peter
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The appearance of your decking with the gray caulk is very eye appealing! I just added your off-deck decking technique to my knowledge base, I love it.
Thanks, Daniel. That’s a nice name for this type of planking: ‘off-deck decking’.
You have to do some extra steps but for me it has several advantages.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Stephan. ‘Old techniques never die!’
Regards, Peter
Wonderful, Peter! Everything properly in scale and very tidy. Love the wood planking and it's visual and textural contrast with the steel...
Thanks, Paul. You know I am a great lover of linseed oil. That will make the wood a bit darker and ‘warmer’. And for sure, the wood/steel combination is nice.
Regards, Peter
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Beautiful decking Peter.
Fijne Paasdagen!
Fijne Paasdagen!