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VOC ship The Prins Willem (scale 1:75) Year 1651

Thanks for liking and visit my log Gunther. You are free to use my sails if you need them. But remember my ship is not the same. But I put all the files in the attachment here. If you print them you can see the scale. This is 1/75
Success with sail making, if you follow the instructions it will be easy. I only had to redo the first one.
Hey Steff,

Thank you very much for your efforts and I will follow your advice. Yes, you are right, you have different sails than I do, as I will be using English sails.

Best regards

Günther Ship-1
 
Thanks all for the likes.
A little update, little in parts not job. That was big.
all the blocks and the blocks attached to the yard.

View attachment 539039View attachment 539040View attachment 539041View attachment 539042View attachment 539043View attachment 539044

These blocks on the yard are big. I found this drawing online source vaartips.nl Tekening van Frederik J.Weijs
View attachment 539049
wow, what kind of huge violin block is that? It must be really heavy in reality?

Just goes to show how hard it was as a sailor......

Cheers Günther Ship-1
 
Thanks all for the likes and visit.
Again not much time (I hear to much often "Stephan? ....")
But between all the household keeping and other things in, a small update for now.

pictures say everything

IMG_5478.JPGIMG_5479.JPGIMG_5480.JPGIMG_5481.JPGIMG_5482.JPGIMG_5483.JPGIMG_5484.JPG

And I need rope, my stock is slinking.

The keen observer will have noticed that the thin rope is LH rope and not RH. This is because I use Serafil rope for 0.18 and 0.24 mm, which is 120/2 yarn. When I make 2x1 or 3x1 rope from this, I can only twist it LH. The yarn consists of two 120 thickness yarns that are RH twisted. If I use more yarns per skein, this is possible and will produce a nice result. The fact that the thin one has the wrong twist is hardly noticeable to the naked eye, only in the macro photo. I have Skala available and I could make it with that, as well as RH.
 
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Thanks all for the likes and visit.
Again not much time (I hear to much often "Stephan? ....")
But between all the household keeping and other things in, a small update for now.

pictures say everything

View attachment 539667View attachment 539668View attachment 539669View attachment 539670View attachment 539671View attachment 539672View attachment 539673

And I need rope, my stock is slinking.

The keen observer will have noticed that the thin rope is LH rope and not RH. This is because I use Serafil rope for 0.18 and 0.24 mm, which is 120/2 yarn. When I make 2x1 or 3x1 rope from this, I can only twist it LH. The yarn consists of two 120 thickness yarns that are RH twisted. If I use more yarns per skein, this is possible and will produce a nice result. The fact that the thin one has the wrong twist is hardly noticeable to the naked eye, only in the macro photo. I have Skala available and I could make it with that, as well as RH.
fabulous rigging Stephan.
 
A great post for those still learning and I guess even for experienced ones. Just seeing photos of the small pieces easily convinces me that I need to forget small-scale models. Upper 60s, arthritis in both thumbs and a wrist don’t do me any favors!
 
A great post for those still learning and I guess even for experienced ones. Just seeing photos of the small pieces easily convinces me that I need to forget small-scale models. Upper 60s, arthritis in both thumbs and a wrist don’t do me any favors!
Thanks for visiting my log and the compliment.

Don't let osteoarthritis stop you. Neither do I despite having osteoarthritis in both hands, wrists and shoulders. There are times when sometimes things don't go my way. But I enjoy the moments when I can work on it.

Larger models are definitely easiler to rig than smaller ones.
They need more patience. But I think they are easier because you can forget a lot of details.
My model is scale 1/75, but it is not a small ship.
 
Thanks for visiting my log and the compliment.

Don't let osteoarthritis stop you. Neither do I despite having osteoarthritis in both hands, wrists and shoulders. There are times when sometimes things don't go my way. But I enjoy the moments when I can work on it.


They need more patience. But I think they are easier because you can forget a lot of details.
My model is scale 1/75, but it is not a small ship.
My first ship was 1:100 scale, and yes, you can omit many details, such as deck trenails, because they should not be evident on such a small scale. However, there are some details that should be evident, but the tiny scale prevents you from adding the detail because it is too difficult. Take for example, gun tackles. Even at 1:150, you should be able to see them, but it is practically impossible to get line and blocks small enough to keep gun tackles in scale. Also, no one has make parts that simulate gun tackles on that small scale as a product. Perhaps the tackles could be simulated with the smallest of 3-D resin printed parts, painted and glued to the gunwales and carriages with enough detail to appear as gun tackles to the viewer. Actual blocks don't get much smaller than 1.5mm, and the line is basically thread at a small scale, and even then, the blocks are a bit oversized at 1:100 scale. As someone who attempts to place as much detail in a small model as possible, given my intermediate skill level, it is a source of frustration when a detail you should be able to see is not practical to create because of scale limitations on materials, tools, or access using tools. As such, compromises must be made. This is why some modelers choose up to 1:48 scale where they add tons of details which are a feast for the eyes.
 
Still working on the reeflines of my first sail. So my last attempt is glue that @Peter Voogt also used.
It was with a special action on Amazon available so I ordered. still need to pay shipping, but the set of wood drills was 3,94. Just enough to skip the shipping cost of 3,99. and reach the 20 euro to get free shipping.
So I'm gonna try this to get the reeflines of the sail straight. Heat works, but not in time.

IMG_5575.JPG
 
Those little ropes want to stick out like the hair of a punker of the nineties. But the glue Peter adviced has she tamed.
Pretty smart to use the smallest sail to test everything. Not!

I used little clamps to hold the rope straight during drying. At least 12 hours to get a good result.
IMG_5576.JPG
IMG_5577.JPG

I am quite satisfied with this result. First, I attached the clips and hung the ropes in the right way. Then I used a soldering iron at 180 degrees Celsius to shape the rope. Next, I used a small brush to apply the (diluted) glue to the rope. It took some trial and error to figure out the best way to do this, but it works. I let it dry for at least half a day before removing the clips and cutting the strings to the right length. Treat a few strings again here and there, and you're done.

In the last photo, you can see two grommets on either side, which are also attached with this (undiluted) glue. I still need to reinforce them and secure them with thread. But it turns out that this glue is perfect for attaching the bolt rope to the sail.

Thanks for watching and I'm now gonna finish that bottle of wine before Paul sneaks in.
 
Those little ropes want to stick out like the hair of a punker of the nineties. But the glue Peter adviced has she tamed.
Pretty smart to use the smallest sail to test everything. Not!

I used little clamps to hold the rope straight during drying. At least 12 hours to get a good result.
View attachment 550995
View attachment 550996

I am quite satisfied with this result. First, I attached the clips and hung the ropes in the right way. Then I used a soldering iron at 180 degrees Celsius to shape the rope. Next, I used a small brush to apply the (diluted) glue to the rope. It took some trial and error to figure out the best way to do this, but it works. I let it dry for at least half a day before removing the clips and cutting the strings to the right length. Treat a few strings again here and there, and you're done.

In the last photo, you can see two grommets on either side, which are also attached with this (undiluted) glue. I still need to reinforce them and secure them with thread. But it turns out that this glue is perfect for attaching the bolt rope to the sail.

Thanks for watching and I'm now gonna finish that bottle of wine before Paul sneaks in.
That’s looking very nice, Stephan. I am glad that your happy with the Leneco glue.
Regards, Peter
 
Hey Steffen,

what kind of sail? I like it so much. It's amazing. It also looks good with the reefing lines. Great.

Best regards

Günther Ship-1
 
That’s looking very nice, Stephan. I am glad that your happy with the Leneco glue.
Regards, Peter
Thanks Peter, the money is well used.

Hey Steffen,

what kind of sail? I like it so much. It's amazing. It also looks good with the reefing lines. Great.

Best regards

Günther Ship-1
Thanks Günther, it's paper. Just look a few pages back.

Post in thread 'VOC ship The Prins Willem (scale 1:75) Year 1651' https://shipsofscale.com/sosforums/...-willem-scale-1-75-year-1651.6761/post-435159
 
Thanks for watching and I'm now gonna finish that bottle of wine before Paul sneaks in.
Good morning Stephan. Paul (@dockattner ) is many hours behind us so we will always have the opportunity to sneak a bottle before he does ;) . He is sleeping while we enjoy that Burgandy red.ROTF

Very nice sails Stephan. I will be refering to your log when I make the Bounty sails (by request of Justin as sails are not my friend.) Cheers Grant
 
Good morning Stephan. Paul (@dockattner ) is many hours behind us so we will always have the opportunity to sneak a bottle before he does ;) . He is sleeping while we enjoy that Burgandy red.ROTF

Very nice sails Stephan. I will be refering to your log when I make the Bounty sails (by request of Justin as sails are not my friend.) Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant, I live in an apartment. I can see who is ringging on the, we just don't open the door and enjoy those bottles.

And special for Justin, if you use shoebox paper, the sails are cheap. :cool:
 
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