ZHL San Felipe 1690 - Ted R

[Ted Robinson]

Since I had the upper deck removed I started the recessed walls on the bulkheads lm
This is 7B in progress. Trimming and sanding to follow.

 

[GrantTyler]

Good evening Ted. Your deck is probably lime as it a Occre kit. You can get the lime looking really cool if you don’t make the caulking tooo dark. A HB pencil is what I used on my Xebec. I found if you scape the lime vs sanding also brings it out rather nice. Once you apply a finish to it, it comes out rather nice. Cheers Grant

 

[Ted Robinson]

Good evening Ted. Your deck is probably lime as it a Occre kit. You can get the lime looking really cool if you don’t make the caulking tooo dark. A HB pencil is what I used on my Xebec. I found if you scape the lime vs sanding also brings it out rather nice. Once you apply a finish to it, it comes out rather nice. Cheers Grant

Thanks, I intend to scrape vs sanding.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I did some trimming and sanding it don't know how fine to sand the finish.
I want a polished wood finish but not want to use my attempt.semi gloss finishes.i just don't know what procedure to use or where to go to learn to correct procedure.

 

[CoastHiker]

I'm coming to the world of ship building from some experience in cabinet making, so I hope some techniques will carry over. When it comes to wood finishing, this principle will definitely carry over: if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish an item, you'll get about 30 options. We each just have to pick a procedure that we like.

For a polished wood finish, I hand-sand from 240 grit to 400 grit; apply shellac sanding sealer; allow to dry (10 minutes), sand and seal again and sand... then apply clear furniture wax, allow to dry (10 minutes) and bring the best shine up by polishing with some soft cloth. That will bring your wall up to a soft shine and although I've made it sound laborious, it actually only takes a few minutes over the course of any hour.

However, this approach wouldn't work if you ever intend to then attach anything to it- this wax finish is almost totally resistant to all glues.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I'm coming to the world of ship building from some experience in cabinet making, so I hope some techniques will carry over. When it comes to wood finishing, this principle will definitely carry over: if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish an item, you'll get about 30 options. We each just have to pick a procedure that we like.

For a polished wood finish, I hand-sand from 240 grit to 400 grit; apply shellac sanding sealer; allow to dry (10 minutes), sand and seal again and sand... then apply clear furniture wax, allow to dry (10 minutes) and bring the best shine up by polishing with some soft cloth. That will bring your wall up to a soft shine and although I've made it sound up and rest itlaborious, it actually only takes a few minutes over the course of any hour.

However, this approach wouldn't work if you ever intend to then attach anything to it- this wax finish is almost totally resistant to all glues.

Thank you, I'm going to make a mock up and test it.
I'll post the results

 

[Ted Robinson]

Here's my first bulkhead wall in place and with the above false deck. Dry fit only no finish.

 

[Ted Robinson]

At this point I have several areas of concern.
The false deck above the aforementioned false deck seems to be short or too far after to cover the bulkhead wall. Nothing in the plans show this wall in place. The false deck fit in place without any modifications except sanding of soot from the part. The frames are perfectly squared. Further more when the false deck piece aft is fitted it also appears to be too far aft.
When temp fitting the main mast it has several degrees of rake. The only drawing that shows the mast in side view is the rigging plan. This plans shows no reference to the keel that would allow me to determine if the masts.have rake.
All of these problems with false deck fitment and mast installation with out rake would be solved by moving the false deck forward.
I think I need to finalize/complete the finish on this wall before proceeding. The decks are a different wood. If I stain this wall after deck installation I may get bleed.through at the wall/deck junction.
Please pardon the unmade bed in the background.

 

[Ted Robinson]

I have no quidence or reference on how wide to make the doors on the other main deck bulkheads. The only detail available is an isometric drawing. See below. I spend more time thinking about how to build my model than building it.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Idiot time again. I built the door in the wrong bulkhead. I can modify this and frame seven bulkhead later.
I don't see the pint in putting doors on frame 8 if y
It is to be blocked by frame 7
Maybe my mind has aged to the point where I m not capable of building this model but it is my main source of enjoyment at this point in life l