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ZHL San Felipe 1690 - Ted R

Good evening Ted. Your deck is probably lime as it a Occre kit. You can get the lime looking really cool if you don’t make the caulking tooo dark. A HB pencil is what I used on my Xebec. I found if you scape the lime vs sanding also brings it out rather nice. Once you apply a finish to it, it comes out rather nice. Cheers Grant
 
GrantTyler said:
Good evening Ted. Your deck is probably lime as it a Occre kit. You can get the lime looking really cool if you don’t make the caulking tooo dark. A HB pencil is what I used on my Xebec. I found if you scape the lime vs sanding also brings it out rather nice. Once you apply a finish to it, it comes out rather nice. Cheers Grant
Click to expand...
Thanks, I intend to scrape vs sanding.
 
I did some trimming and sanding it don't know how fine to sand the finish.
I want a polished wood finish but not want to use my attempt.semi gloss finishes.i just don't know what procedure to use or where to go to learn to correct procedure.

IMG20251107121323.jpgIMG20251107121323.jpg
 
I'm coming to the world of ship building from some experience in cabinet making, so I hope some techniques will carry over. When it comes to wood finishing, this principle will definitely carry over: if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish an item, you'll get about 30 options. We each just have to pick a procedure that we like.

For a polished wood finish, I hand-sand from 240 grit to 400 grit; apply shellac sanding sealer; allow to dry (10 minutes), sand and seal again and sand... then apply clear furniture wax, allow to dry (10 minutes) and bring the best shine up by polishing with some soft cloth. That will bring your wall up to a soft shine and although I've made it sound laborious, it actually only takes a few minutes over the course of any hour.

However, this approach wouldn't work if you ever intend to then attach anything to it- this wax finish is almost totally resistant to all glues.
 
CoastHiker said:
I'm coming to the world of ship building from some experience in cabinet making, so I hope some techniques will carry over. When it comes to wood finishing, this principle will definitely carry over: if you ask 10 woodworkers how to finish an item, you'll get about 30 options. We each just have to pick a procedure that we like.

For a polished wood finish, I hand-sand from 240 grit to 400 grit; apply shellac sanding sealer; allow to dry (10 minutes), sand and seal again and sand... then apply clear furniture wax, allow to dry (10 minutes) and bring the best shine up by polishing with some soft cloth. That will bring your wall up to a soft shine and although I've made it sound up and rest itlaborious, it actually only takes a few minutes over the course of any hour.

However, this approach wouldn't work if you ever intend to then attach anything to it- this wax finish is almost totally resistant to all glues.
Click to expand...
Thank you, I'm going to make a mock up and test it.
I'll post the results
 
At this point I have several areas of concern.
The false deck above the aforementioned false deck seems to be short or too far after to cover the bulkhead wall. Nothing in the plans show this wall in place. The false deck fit in place without any modifications except sanding of soot from the part. The frames are perfectly squared. Further more when the false deck piece aft is fitted it also appears to be too far aft.17626133376424361406105800764940.jpg
When temp fitting the main mast it has several degrees of rake. The only drawing that shows the mast in side view is the rigging plan. This plans shows no reference to the keel that would allow me to determine if the masts.have rake.
All of these problems with false deck fitment and mast installation with out rake would be solved by moving the false deck forward.
I think I need to finalize/complete the finish on this wall before proceeding. The decks are a different wood. If I stain this wall after deck installation I may get bleed.through at the wall/deck junction.
Please pardon the unmade bed in the background.

17626134009951511708745363838785.jpg
 
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I have no quidence or reference on how wide to make the doors on the other main deck bulkheads. The only detail available is an isometric drawing. See below. I spend more time thinking about how to build my model than building it.17626150798011659280021517191116.jpg
 
Idiot time again. I built the door in the wrong bulkhead. I can modify this and frame seven bulkhead later.
I don't see the pint in putting doors on frame 8 if y
It is to be blocked by frame 7
Maybe my mind has aged to the point where I m not capable of building this model but it is my main source of enjoyment at this point in life l
17626157607744374321035493423576.jpg17626157806026450032999075600638.jpg
 
I cut the ends of part 7B and glued them on 8B to swap their locations.IMG20251108085702.jpg
I put a coat of Minwax Golden Pecan on the wall and glued into place. I haven't decided on finish for the entire model but this part will really not be visible as the bulkheads fo in front of it and a deck above .17626214039124883913961780312654.jpg
 
I just snapped a photo of the deck planking. It is so thin you can see light through it. IMG20251109061306.jpg
 
Test panels. First prestained, then glued.
Second glued, stain later. I'll give it twelve hours and check glue adhesion on the prestained side and then stain the raw wood glued for consistent finish and glue leed throughIMG20251109072521.jpgIMG20251109072527.jpg
 
I believe I have had all my questions on this thread answered and should probably close it. If that's such a thingo thank everyone who responded and educated me on how PVA glues work and deck finishing.
 
I'm back to where I was when I started the demolition at the stern.
This time I have the lower two platforms installed perfectly. I think. The upper platform is a little high. Note the gap at the top of part 47.17628645983577154581308207160931.jpg
The problem is exacerbated by me having lost part 12C and having to remake it without knowing the height of the part.
Another problem is that the edge profile of part 47 doesn't match the edge of frame 12.
17628649071211195356932235184334.jpg
And finally part 47 is too wide to conform to the tapering of the hill at the stern.17628650047514666609167240711561.jpg17628650291963083254568035228772.jpg
Note how part 47 does not fall in line with frame 12 below.
.
 
I thought that I had decided on the finish for the deck planks and deck furniture by using. Minwax Golden Pecan. The stain i have is oil based. Unfortunately it is not manufactured as a water based stain.
I went ahead and finished he deck planks and bulkhead that are 95 percent concealed. I'm not willing to take the chance on the oil based bleeding through
And preventing the adhesion of deck furniture, etc.
So I back at the drawing board.
I'm going to purchase some amber shellac and test.color. it is reported as being a gluable surface using.gorilla glue.
Of course I will have to test this before proceeding.
The booki ordered on the rigging of Spanish warships 1600-1705 was on board the freight aircraft the crashed at the Louisville airport. Fortunately the vendor had a.second copy and it.is on the way.
 
A day (or more) late, but mainly a point of interest.... For the doors in the bulkhead at the break of the forecastle and at the quarterdeck would there have been small panels that could open for small arms fire against enemy sailors that boarded the ship as was done on English ships? From Goodwin, The Construction and Fitting of the English Man of War, page 118.
Allan
 
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