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Le Saint Philippe 1693 after Jean-Claude Lemineur (Ancre) in scale 1:48

Herman said:
IMHO, the Corradi files are a modeller's best friends :cool: .
Click to expand...
I'm with you on this, Herman. I now have two sets (each of a different cut).

Give me a disc sander, an XActo knife, and some files and we are well on our way to building a model ship. Scratch building requires a bit more for processing billets and cutting out individual parts - but doing the fine work by hand can be very satisfying (no disrespect to those who prefer some of the newer technologies).
 
Hi Doc
Your build continues to be an inspiration, or at least should be, to everyone here at SoS. Can't think of any adjectives that have not been used to describe your masterful work. I hope your build is as much fun as it has been for those of us following it.
Allan
 
AllanKP69 said:
Hi Doc
Your build continues to be an inspiration, or at least should be, to everyone here at SoS. Can't think of any adjectives that have not been used to describe your masterful work. I hope your build is as much fun as it has been for those of us following it.
Allan
Click to expand...
This is very nice of you to say, Allan. My thanks. I know your expertise is with the English ships - but you and your guidance are always welcome here. Please do hesitate to offer correction or direction.

BTW, that goes for everyone. This build report and its author are open to your observations and suggestions for improvement.

Or better yet, stop by. The cellar door is always unlocked and we can enjoy a glass (and a chat) together :). Certain exceptions apply ROTF.
 
dockattner said:
This is very nice of you to say, Allan. My thanks. I know your expertise is with the English ships - but you and your guidance are always welcome here. Please do hesitate to offer correction or direction.

BTW, that goes for everyone. This build report and its author are open to your observations and suggestions for improvement.

Or better yet, stop by. The cellar door is always unlocked and we can enjoy a glass (and a chat) together :). Certain exceptions apply ROTF.
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Thank you for your invitation, Paul. Should I ever find myself in your area, I'll gladly accept your offer. Unless, of course, I'm one of those exceptions.
 
I would love to know which ones you use. I use my glardon valorbe files and Liogier rasps but don't own any of these curved ones. It seems like by your results they are very useful
 
CLB said:
Are you guys referring to these ?

www.woodcraft.com

Corradi Riffler Files & Rasps, Complete Set of 16 - Best Value , (KIT)

For sculptors and wood-carvers these 7-1 2 rifflers are indispensable Manufactured of the finest materials under the strictest quality control standards this set is a favorit
www.woodcraft.com www.woodcraft.com
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I have two sets of Corradi Needle Files (cut 2 and cut 1 - I use cut 2 almost exclusively). Grobet also makes high end needle files. These are all spendy but I think they will last my lifetime.

I don't have any quality rasps.
 
dockattner said:
This is very nice of you to say, Allan. My thanks. I know your expertise is with the English ships - but you and your guidance are always welcome here. Please do hesitate to offer correction or direction.

BTW, that goes for everyone. This build report and its author are open to your observations and suggestions for improvement.

Or better yet, stop by. The cellar door is always unlocked and we can enjoy a glass (and a chat) together :). Certain exceptions apply ROTF.
Click to expand...
An unlocked cellar door? I’ll adjust the course immediately. But now I’m intrigued... What are these “certain exceptions”? Corkage fee for strong opinions? Are we talking dress code? ROTFROTFROTFROTFROTF
 
Jimsky said:
An unlocked cellar door? I’ll adjust the course immediately. But now I’m intrigued... What are these “certain exceptions”? Corkage fee for strong opinions? Are we talking dress code? ROTFROTFROTFROTFROTF
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Now that my children have moved out the cellar doors can remain unlocked (if you take my meaning) ROTF.

My (very short) list of exceptions are people who would not even want to hang out with me. It's mutual :). In other words, if you want to be on that list - you're probably on that list...

I don't know any Ukrainian recipes so you and I will just have to have burgers and the best cabernet you have ever tasted.
 
dockattner said:
I have two sets of Corradi Needle Files (cut 2 and cut 1 - I use cut 2 almost exclusively). Grobet also makes high end needle files. These are all spendy but I think they will last my lifetime.

I don't have any quality rasps.
Click to expand...
Ahh these are very similar to my Glardon files - I was just curious if you were using the curved ones. I am always on the look out for good tools. For quality rasps check out these - hand made - mine have served me well so far. I own all 4 - they are expensive

www.fine-tools.com

Hand-hewn needle rasps by Liogier

For over 100 years, LIOGIER has been manufacturing exceptionally high-quality hand-stitched rasps in the Auvergne region of France. At times, it was one of the largest manufacturers of these tools in Europe, although it was virtually unknown outside of F…
www.fine-tools.com www.fine-tools.com
 
Jimsky said:
But hey, you can always (or anyone who wants) taste the borscht in my NY (Brooklyn) apartment. Welcome!
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If it is half as good as both my grandmothers made, that "little" snow fall is no problem. Back then the first tasting was hot for dinner, then the next day it was served cold with a hot potato added. Good grief, what great memories. Honest to goodness, I had borscht for lunch on our cruise yesterday. Talk about timing and bringing back fond memories...... So I continue to go off track, sorry about that, but you guys started it.:):)
 
About two weeks ago I started to fabricate the parts for the second deck - but as I contemplated actually installing that deck I kept running into, "but you have to do this or that thing first." So, here's a few of those things:

The gunports on the stern of the ship (along with the hardware needed on the inner face of all gun port covers):

IMG_1769.JPG

IMG_1772.JPG

The 'boot' that allows the tiller to ride along the tiller sweep (everything is just loose here pending final fitting):

IMG_1774.JPG

Scuppers. On the SP all of the scuppers are square in cross section - the smaller scuppers have a round channel - the larger scuppers have a square channel:

IMG_1768.JPG

IMG_1777.JPG

IMG_1776.JPG

Without the waterway the inboard end of the scupper looks silly - but it is what it is...

Finally...the rule is that you don't get to build a ship model with grandpa until you are five. Well, this little guy is only four, so we had to build a wooden car (it's a kit):

IMG_1766.JPG

I'll be honest - this picture makes my eyes water a little bit. The backstory on this little guy is pretty grim - yet here he is - happiest kid on the planet. I know there are some other guys out there whose grandchildren are facing challenges right now and I feel your pain. Sometimes it works out just fine. God is faithful.
 
A question. I think in those places where a wale crosses over a gunport the wale should continue (that is, it should not stop and restart at the gunport opening).

Right now, I have the gunport covers in place, but the wales stop and restart (they don't run over the gunport cover itself). I assume this is wrong. Am I right that I have done it wrong?

If so - what happens to the hinge that will be installed later? Does it just bend around the wale (simulated wale since I already have already built it wrong and have no desire to build these covers again)?

IMG_1775.JPG

I realize this is the dumbest question you have ever heard on the forum. What you don't know is that I have even dumber questions I don't bother to ask ROTF.
 
dockattner said:
A question. I think in those places where a wale crosses over a gunport the wale should continue (that is, it should not stop and restart at the gunport opening).

Right now, I have the gunport covers in place, but the wales stop and restart (they don't run over the gunport cover itself). I assume this is wrong. Am I right that I have done it wrong?

If so - what happens to the hinge that will be installed later? Does it just bend around the wale (simulated wale since I already have already built it wrong and have no desire to build these covers again)?
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That’s a very good question, mon ami, and no, you’re not crazy to question it. ;)
You are correct in principle: I believe, on real ships, the wale runs continuously along the hull. It does not stop at the gunport. The gunport opening is cut through the planking and the wale. The wale is typically structural reinforcement; it wouldn’t politely stop and restart around a lid.

As for the hinges, the hinge straps were mounted to the outside planking (obvious), sometimes crossing the wale. If the wale projected, the iron strap would either bend over the wale, or sit slightly proud, or be mounted just above/below, depending on design. There was no elegant recessing; iron straps were mostly practical, but some were practical and decorative.

I think there is no need to rebuild: You can simply add a strip across the lid matching the wale (grain direction, important), thickness. Feather/sand gently, it will visually continue the wale line. But honestly, it is your call. I love her the way she is! :)

And the coper nailing is very convincing. The spacing is disciplined, the rows are consistent, and most importantly, they don’t scream “pattern” and match the scale. That’s usually the trap with simulated fasteners: too perfect, and they look stamped; too random, and they look chaotic. Yours sits in that nice, believable middle ground. You gotta love them!
 
Paul,
I have a bunch of period model pictures of the "wale" and "gunport" intersection. I'll post a few below.

1. This is one of the few the made the gunport 3D, to follow the raised wale.
1772163448054.png

2. Most, like this one, just used paint to continue the line of the raised wales.
1772163799705.jpeg

3. Finally, a few had neither paint or a raised piece that followed the rail.

1772164067696.jpeg

I used both, on my scratch Serapis build. I hoped no one would look at both sides at the same time ROTF.

a. On this port side, I left the rail "sliver" off (second from the right), as it would be too fragile/unsupported. the one to the right has the rail continued in 3D.
ports.jpg


b. In this photo of the same two ports on Starboard, you can see I did 3D on the thin sliver but I'm sure that would be broken off almost immediately, so I left it off the port side.
20260226_210323.jpg

Hope this was helpful in your gunport decisions. I think you can still do any of the three options:
1. No continuation of the wales on the gunport (no paint or 3D).
2. Simulate a continuation of the wales with paint.
3. Add to the cover a piece in 3D to continue the wales. The metal straps would have to be bent to follow this new contour.
 
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