Le Requin-Zebec-1750 POF 1:48 (ZHL)

[Jimsky]

While drilling and filing holes representing deck nails, the rate of drill bit destruction is worth noting. Using 0.6mm drill bits, if you apply the slightest bit of lateral torsion the little things just snape off. I bought 2ea. 10 packs of bits from Amazon anticipating this problem and already down 6 bits in one pack. Ha! you wouldn't want me drilling on your teeth! .

Those 0.6 mm bits are actually designed with PCB drilling in mind, not wood. They’re extremely hard but brittle as glass, with virtually no tolerance for lateral load, so even the slightest side pressure will snap them instantly. They’re great for straight-down work in fiberglass boards, but wood grain and hand pressure are a whole different story.
You might have better luck using regular twisted micro drill bits instead — they’re a bit more forgiving and much better suited for wood.

 

[Daniel20]

You might have better luck using regular twisted micro drill bits instead — they’re a bit more forgiving and much better suited for wood.

Thanks for the heads up, Jim. I had no idea.

 

[dockattner]

Hi Daniel,

Of course Jim is right - but the drills you are using are cheap as chips so the ROI is not out of whack . Don't despair! Just consider them disposable.

 

[Jimsky]

Thanks for the heads up, Jim. I had no idea.

The ones below are definitely not cheap; they are premium priced, but...take my word, they will last you much longer. They occasionally break when drilling metal or brass, and putting extreme pressure. But for the wood, I have not had a chance to break one yet.

 

[Corsair]

I got the little Arrowmax pen style drill set from Amazon and it is great. I have yet to break a bit. Of course, I'm not drilling 50,000 holes either. It's small and a bit slower than a Dremel and it's also easier to control.

 

[Daaveyboy]

Thanks for the heads up, Jim. I had no idea.

I had the same problem drilling and found that normal drills are much better a pack of 10 for £5.00 on eBay, I have only broke 2 in the last 6 Months.

 

[Steef66]

https://nl.aliexpress.com/item/1005004383468738.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller.15.7531Q8wBQ8wBqL&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.40050.354490.0&scm_id=1007.40050.354490.0&scm-url=1007.40050.354490.0&pvid=03034d7f-65ad-4d1d-a11a-9b70393e4cc5&_t=gps-id:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller,scm-url:1007.40050.354490.0,pvid:03034d7f-65ad-4d1d-a11a-9b70393e4cc5,tpp_buckets:668%232846%238116%232002&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22order%22%3A%2213230%22%2C%22eval%22%3A%221%22%2C%22sceneId%22%3A%2230050%22%2C%22fromPage%22%3A%22recommend%22%7D&pdp_npi=6%40dis%21EUR%212.09%211.04%21%21%212.41%211.20%21%40211b441e17703193568484686e1e86%2112000037230253623%21rec%21NL%211640346580%21XZ%211%210%21n_tag%3A-29919%3Bd%3A949e17a8%3Bm03_new_user%3A-29895&utparam-url=scene%3ApcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller%7Cquery_from%3A%7Cx_object_id%3A1005004383468738%7C_p_origin_prod%3A

I use the same like you Daniel, but they are brittle. The ones that Jim mentioned are a lot stronger. I got them too. But also a little more expensive.
These above are the cheapest ones and they are the best for a job like this. They get dull fast, but the price is low. Just order a lot. They don't break but only bent.

 

[Dean62]

Hello Russ, the cutters are by Xuron, see Amazon. The orange will cut up to 1.0mm copper, the blue up to 1.60mm copper. You can find exactly how they work in the product description, pretty neat design.View attachment 575846

Those look like my sprue cutters. They cut plastic easily…

 

[Daniel20]

I got the little Arrowmax pen style drill set from Amazon and it is great.

Interesting item Jeff.

I had the same problem drilling and found that normal drills are much better

I appreciate the input Daavey, I need to see how far I can get with what I have.

These above are the cheapest ones and they are the best for a job like this.

Thanks for the input, Stephan. I'll run through the batch I have then see what's available in the size I need.

 

[Daniel20]

Those look like my sprue cutters. They cut plastic easily…

Yes, they make excellent sprue cutters, the tips are very narrow and slide in between the frame and the casting with ease.

 

[Daniel20]

I finally finished installing the deck nails on the exposed portion of the deck and turned my attention to the next step, installing what they call the deck edge molding. This molding creates a nice transition from the deck to the bulwarks, similar to a waterway. these strips are notched to fit in between each standing frame rib and naturally one has to file each notch to fit properly in place. The first picture from the instructions highlights its placement.



You can see several other pieces standing knees and other cross timbers that will fit on top. The last pictures are the beginning layout and fitment procedure.



I will dry fit each piece first, then do a final sanding before glue up.

Till next time!

 

[dockattner]

This will certainly be a test of your framing!

 

[Daniel20]

This will certainly be a test of your framing!

Indeed, it will. Also, a test of the accuracy of the kits notched jig system. Actually, during preliminary inspection, every notch in the molding lines up reasonably well with the ribs it's just sub mm tight because of laser cutting not being vertical, I guess.

 

[Dean62]

I remember the notched waterway boards on the Bluenose…a pain in the rear!
Your deck and nails look great!

 

[Corsair]

I remember the notched waterway boards on the Bluenose…a pain in the rear!
Your deck and nails look great!

Pain in the deck?

 

[Dean62]

Pain in the deck?

Or a pain in the stern!

 

[oldflyer]

Your deck details are so perfect!!

 

[GrantTyler]

Good morning Daniel. Ahh you are owning it. Your deck already looks beautiful (spot on treenails) and I can just imagine what it will look like with some oil / poly on. Kudos. Cheers Grant

 

[Daniel20]

Good morning Daniel. Ahh you are owning it. Your deck already looks beautiful (spot on treenails) and I can just imagine what it will look like with some oil / poly on. Kudos. Cheers Grant

Hey thanks Grant. I am getting close to setting up the substructure supporting the gun deck, this will have the effect of 'flattening out' the overall deck.

 

[Daniel20]

Good morning all, I have more of a procedural update than a progress report. A while back our friend @Loracs posted how he used a sandblasting method to remove char from his Bluenose parts. Always on the lookout for a better way to do char removal I geared up and gave it a try, and it works great! Using an air brush gun designed for sandblasting along with the proper PPE gave the following results. Before and after.







In my garage with a 30" floor fan at my back it took 30min to do all 60 pieces.



I did not use a blasting box but instead relied on my fan to blow most of the sand media out onto my driveway then used my 1-gal bench compressor and my leaf blower to clear out what fell on my workbench area. Next time I will just set everything up on my driveway and be done with it. Like most everyone else, I really dislike dealing with char. This system is like using a pencil eraser, it just erases the char without eating into the wood. I will hit each piece lightly with some 320-grit sandpaper and their ready to go. It took about 10 refills in the spray dispenser cup, so it does have a high usage rate.

So, I just wanted to share my experience with it, hope you all find it useful.
Till next time.