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As Paul has said, it’s astroturf, I’m a fraud but don’t tell anyone.I wish I had a lawn that looked like that. Or did you take those pictures at the golf course?
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As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering. |
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The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026! Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue. NOTE THAT OUR FIRST ISSUE WILL BE JAN/FEB 2026 |
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As Paul has said, it’s astroturf, I’m a fraud but don’t tell anyone.I wish I had a lawn that looked like that. Or did you take those pictures at the golf course?






Hi Vic. They’ll come, I’ll try to minimise their appearance by being careful where I put them and by having tight joints they shouldn’t be too noticeableI don’t see any pointy ends yet.
Have you tried stealers in the past? They didn’t seem to be so hard to make.Hi Vic. They’ll come, I’ll try to minimise their appearance by being careful where I put them and by having tight joints they shouldn’t be too noticeable
Agreed. Plan the stealers out, identifying pinch points or expansion point areas, and make them in pairs, port and starboard. Draw pencil lines on the loose planks you about to tape and attach, and test fit. Once you get used to the thinking involved in predicting where to install stealers and drop planks, it does get easier. No pointy planks required.Have you tried stealers in the past? They didn’t seem to be so hard to make.
Lovely Ken. Very neat planking. Cheers GrantI’m now moving on to second planking the lower hull using 4x1mm walnut strip. I once tried using the supposed correct method of planking but without a great deal of success so I’m not going to start like that again on such a difficult hull. I’ll just concentrate on getting the planks down flat and neat with only one eye on a sort of correct flow so if pointy bits offend your eye look away now. I use both white glue and cyno for attaching the planks. I have already sanded the edges of the planks to get a nice clean fit, also to help a clean looking fit after I’ve laid each plank and whilst the glue is still moist I lightly sand the area, this removes any surface glue and at the same time fills any gaps with sawdust, especially helpful where I’ve put in fillets. I found that the way that I introduced the rabbet line has worked very well.
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Hi Vic. Yes I would normally use stealers and I think with reasonable success, so I’m with you on that.Have you tried stealers in the past? They didn’t seem to be so hard to make.

Hi Kurt. I totally understand what you’re saying and seeing your work I can see why you would like to see all hulls done that way. This will most likely be my last build, I know what I can achieve doing it a simple way, this will be a difficult enough hull to do as it is so now is not the time for me to push the boat out. I’m afraid that you’ll have to turn a blind eye to it. KenAgreed. Plan the stealers out, identifying pinch points or expansion point areas, and make them in pairs, port and starboard. Draw pencil lines on the loose planks you about to tape and attach, and test fit. Once you get used to the thinking involved in predicting where to install stealers and drop planks, it does get easier. No pointy planks required.
I understand. We have to work within our limits. Thanks Ken!Hi Kurt. I totally understand what you’re saying and seeing your work I can see why you would like to see all hulls done that way. This will most likely be my last build, I know what I can achieve doing it a simple way, this will be a difficult enough hull to do as it is so now is not the time for me to push the boat out. I’m afraid that you’ll have to turn a blind eye to it. Ken


Hi Ken,Good morning, as you can see it's a nice sunny day, hopefully were coming out of winter and into some better weather. This is just a short pictorial update showing my humble effort at planking. I'm happy so far, the seams are tight and there are no sprung planks.
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