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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)
Nailing and Bolting.
I've already done all of this on the second hull, so I won't repeat myself. I'll just add a few new techniques and a couple of life hacks.
To always cut the toothpicks at the same level, I glued 3 layers of electrical tape to the inside of the nippers.
I'm always looking for new ways to speed up and improve the process, so here's another method for making bolts.
1. I use a knife to cut off the tip, forming the head.
2. Then I make a circular groove to better secure the bolt in the hole.
3. I shape the head by hand with a bowl drill.
4. I cut it to length with nippers.
5. Then I insert the finished bolt into the hole and hammer it in.
As a result, no modifications are required after fastening, and there is no risk of damaging the housing.
The finished result is: Nails (0.5 mm), Bolts (1 mm) and empty holes (0.5 mm) where the bolts should have been.
Scuppers.
I also slightly modified the way they were made.
1. First, I smooth and sand the edge.
2. Then I stretch the diameter slightly on one side (this is necessary so that the tube will wedge into the hole).
3. I cut off the excess (I previously did this on-site).
4. I secure a section of the tube with a toothpick and sand the other end.
5. I insert the tube from the outside so that it wedge slightly and protrude from the surface by a few tens of millimeters. Then, I fill the inside with CA gel to secure it. And here's the result:
For those who are building or will be building based on my review, here are the exact positions of the scuppers, as neither the anatomy nor the kit provides this information! (The numbers indicate the frames.)
Let me remind you that the scuppers are installed between the frames and they should not fall on the beams.
*As always, I take photos in the evening, and the quality is appropriate. Also, don't pay attention to any glue drips—these areas will be further refined or trimmed.
** @GIG1810 Thank you, friend, for the high rating, don't disappear for long.
I've already done all of this on the second hull, so I won't repeat myself. I'll just add a few new techniques and a couple of life hacks.
To always cut the toothpicks at the same level, I glued 3 layers of electrical tape to the inside of the nippers.
I'm always looking for new ways to speed up and improve the process, so here's another method for making bolts.
1. I use a knife to cut off the tip, forming the head.
2. Then I make a circular groove to better secure the bolt in the hole.
3. I shape the head by hand with a bowl drill.
4. I cut it to length with nippers.
5. Then I insert the finished bolt into the hole and hammer it in.
As a result, no modifications are required after fastening, and there is no risk of damaging the housing.
The finished result is: Nails (0.5 mm), Bolts (1 mm) and empty holes (0.5 mm) where the bolts should have been.
Scuppers.
I also slightly modified the way they were made.
1. First, I smooth and sand the edge.
2. Then I stretch the diameter slightly on one side (this is necessary so that the tube will wedge into the hole).
3. I cut off the excess (I previously did this on-site).
4. I secure a section of the tube with a toothpick and sand the other end.
5. I insert the tube from the outside so that it wedge slightly and protrude from the surface by a few tens of millimeters. Then, I fill the inside with CA gel to secure it. And here's the result:
For those who are building or will be building based on my review, here are the exact positions of the scuppers, as neither the anatomy nor the kit provides this information! (The numbers indicate the frames.)
Let me remind you that the scuppers are installed between the frames and they should not fall on the beams.
*As always, I take photos in the evening, and the quality is appropriate. Also, don't pay attention to any glue drips—these areas will be further refined or trimmed.
** @GIG1810 Thank you, friend, for the high rating, don't disappear for long.
Nicely detailed metalwork, Sergey. I love the bolts and scuppers!
Regards, Peter
Eine wunderbare und wundervolle Arbeit. Ein fantastisches Werk. Die Darstellung ist grandios.
Thank you, friends, for your high praise. We will continue.The level of crafmanship is quite insane...thank you for showing that!
Sills of gun ports.
The most important thing in making them is parallelism. First, I make markings by scratching, trimming off the excess, and then I refine the radius with sandpaper glued to an aluminum tube. Finally, I polish the parts using the same method, but with a lower grit.
Railing posts.
The railing posts are either frames or top timbers. Frames are wider and therefore need to be tapered to the thickness of the top timbers to ensure a uniform appearance. Secondly, I offset frames 30 and 32 backwards (making them look like top timbers) to create a symmetrical arrangement with equal spacing between all the elements. I sanded the yellow railing flush with the plank using a similar method, but I glued the sandpaper to the plank. I cut the frames with a saw blade, protecting the railing with a piece of the blade to avoid damaging it.
Next, the top (black) part of the railing will be secured. This is a complex and time-consuming procedure.
The most important thing in making them is parallelism. First, I make markings by scratching, trimming off the excess, and then I refine the radius with sandpaper glued to an aluminum tube. Finally, I polish the parts using the same method, but with a lower grit.
Railing posts.
The railing posts are either frames or top timbers. Frames are wider and therefore need to be tapered to the thickness of the top timbers to ensure a uniform appearance. Secondly, I offset frames 30 and 32 backwards (making them look like top timbers) to create a symmetrical arrangement with equal spacing between all the elements. I sanded the yellow railing flush with the plank using a similar method, but I glued the sandpaper to the plank. I cut the frames with a saw blade, protecting the railing with a piece of the blade to avoid damaging it.
Next, the top (black) part of the railing will be secured. This is a complex and time-consuming procedure.
I guess that will be fine, Sergey. You'll just have to settle once again for perfection.
Nice detailed and precise work, Sergey.
Regards, Peter
Ahaha, very well said.
It's a shame it's still a long way off, but thanks anyway! Thank you, friend, for your continued interest in my work.
Sehr schöne Ausführung.Präzise durchgeführt. Tolle Detailarbeiten. Du hast ein feines Gespür für die Umsetzung von Details.
Deine Schleiffstäbe > stellst Du die selbst her?
Your explanations are wonderful and simple to use with outstanding results !
Thank you so much !
Thank you so much !
Thank you, friends, for your feedback.
Yes, I make all my grinding tools myself. They turn out very accurately when I'm working on an aluminum tube, but I think wood would work just as well, as long as the cylinder is perfect.