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Thanks, Jon! Is this where I say "Hold my beer!"? I've already struggled in a few areas and am sure to hit several more walls in this phase. Fortunately, I've got you guys to follow who have led the path for me. You are all appreciated!Most builders struggle with the transom, myself included. You seemed to breeze right through it even while deviating from the plans to create the six window 1812 version. Well done!
Jon
I noticed you didn't leave the three openings in the transom at the stern rail, so assume you will be cutting these out after planking (or focusing on a different year in Conny's history where these don't exist(?).
Thank you, Grant! Appreciate the look-in!Good morning Greg. Quality work- lovely progress. Cheers Grant
It looks like, before I shape and position the lower block that will rest against the knuckle portion of the transom and will be the base of the quarter galleries (on both sides) that I must complete before I am able to complete the transom planking, I need to plank the main wale area where all these other parts will rest against.I will now need to continue the transom planking between and on both sides of the windows, and then down across the counter piece. It appears, though, that maybe before that, I need to shape a block that will rest against the “knuckle” portion of the transom. That block creates what will be the bottom portion of the quarter galleries. Does that process sound correct to those who have gone through this?
I am getting closer to the point of turning the ship over to continue the lower hull planking and begin the coppering. Well, at least I think I’m getting closer…
Just sanding what visually appears as a natural taper down to 1/16". Starting about an inch back. At scale, that would be about 6 feet. Seems about right.How are you managing to taper the planks?
Jon brings up an excellent point. In perfect 20/20 hindsight, I wish I'd made provisions for thick posts in the keel.Gregg, At this point, while the keel and bulkheads are exposed, you might want to think about how your model will be displayed when done. If you plan on pedestals, you might want to consider provisions as to how they are to be attached to the keel.
Jon
If you plan on pedestals, you might want to consider provisions as to how they are to be attached to the keel. I have strong pins which pass through the keel into the pedestals, but allow the model to be easily removed from them if necessary.
Jon & Peter, I appreciate the advice on how my Constitution will eventually be displayed. And you will be happy to know that, early on in my build way back in July 2025 as I was first starting this build, I heeded your advice then, Jon, as you had demonstrated in your build log that I had reviewed, and I placed the two support holes about 12” apart, approximately at the F & N bulkhead locations.Jon brings up an excellent point. In perfect 20/20 hindsight, I wish I'd made provisions for thick posts in the keel.
Be careful with the sanding. By sanding the block angle for a better fit aft, you are moving the forward end aft as well and may end up being short further on in the build. Check for the consequences of your adjustments. An alternative is to just add a filler block in the gap between the transom and the filler block.
Jon
Ha! True! Forgot that this area will be covered. Well, except that my Commodore may fall through the crack when, umm, having his "morning constitutional".That gap will cover over by planking, so you might not need to fill it at all.
Jon


