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HMS Alert [1777] 1:48 POF by serikoff. (Two hulls: skeleton and fully rigged)

Hey Sergey,

Thank you very much for your information. It's always great to read about all the things you plan and create. Your construction skills are simply amazing. I'm a fan of your construction methods and explanations.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
 
Hello,
Thank you very much for the detailed information. Perfect. That helps me a lot, thank you
I am very glad that it is useful to you, I will continue in the same spirit.

Hey Sergey,

Thank you very much for your information. It's always great to read about all the things you plan and create. Your construction skills are simply amazing. I'm a fan of your construction methods and explanations.

Best regards
Günther Ship-1
It's very nice to hear that. As long as there is time and opportunity to share the whole process - I do it. I myself need to make up a lot. I had a very long pause in modeling.
 
Small changes for you, but very big decisions for me. Lower railings "window sills."

This place (lower railings - window sills) turned out to be the most difficult for me in deciding how to implement it. Since I did not want to do in the kit on the second hull - due to the gaps between the railing and the racks. And so I finally figured out how to make sure that the work was minimal, but also the solution was as satisfactory as possible for me. I have not yet decided how I will do on the first hull. Most likely I will give a chance to the manufacturer's version with modifications, but I will leave the opportunity for my version.

So, the implementation of my decisions, which I came to after a few months of thought:

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After I installed the vertical positioners, I rested them on the horizontal positioner along the hull.

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And looking ahead, I will say that all this will be cleaned, and now it served for accurate positioning of the "windowsills." And the first to remove the vertical stops, since they have already completed their task.

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By the way, to keep the keel intact - I pasted it over with a protective tape.

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Then - I removed the plastic jumpers in the insertion area.

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Now these inserts (railing drains) are free to fix the "sills."

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Well, the "windowsill" themselves (the middle part of the lower railing), as I did it.

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I measured the exact width of each span and cut out the corresponding blank.

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After that, I pressed it against the horizontal positioner with a bar that rested on two sides at once, creating parallelism and accurate horizontality.

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To maintain accurate horizontality, from the second side I added a thickness equal to the thickness of the "windowsill" to the bar. Fixed from the front on liquid CA by capillary deposition. Glue penetrated under the railing, gluing it to a horizontal positioner and even racks.

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And from the inside - I smeared CA gel, reinforcing this compound.

The idea is to then grind the surplus those that remain from the inside and grind the outside level with the body not only the surplus, but also the entire positioner, since it will also fulfill its functions and will no longer be needed.

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And then, in order to smoothly glue the outer and inner parts of the railing, I will glue another vertical positioners...

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... and in the end there will be such a result: the lower railings - consist of three parts: "window sills," external and internal. And after gluing, they should visually form one part. Since the black hornbeam is logically black, all seams should be practically invisible.

At first glance - the implementation is difficult, but! I thought a lot about this and did not come up with a way in which accuracy can be achieved in the least amount of time.

Making railings with square holes is not an option - because it is not possible to achieve accuracy without a milling machine in multiple lines. And any other method still leads to errors or significantly lengthens the process, which is also not acceptable. Therefore, it is easier to make a lot of positioners in a couple of minutes and then eliminate them, but on the other hand, do everything symmetrically and smoothly and most importantly quickly, which is most important for me.
 
Sill-railings.

So, after grinding...

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... which took place in the same way as before... the result was as follows inside:

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And outside:

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The result suited me and I am glad that this is the process behind.

There are 135 parts on board (not taking into account all the momentary positioners)... continue on.

By the way, I continue to try different options for wood coated with oil and bitumen... I'll tell you about it a little later.
 
There are few updates, not much time to engage in hobbies. Plus, in several directions there are continuous dead ends, you have to think a lot about how to do what, and this takes a lot of effort and a lot of time. And the motivation from this falls. I want to do a lot, but you start one thing, but you still need to do the second, and to do this you also need the third, and to start the third, you need the fourth and fifth, and so on. Now the most important stage is the miscalculation and marking of the skin belts. And if you do it at random, then the result will be the same. So I sit, calculate, I think I decide...

... in the meantime, I decided to finish with the inserts.

To make it easier to glue the skin, he sewed up the voids with balsa and made a small conductor, along which he installed a hole under the steering wheel.

Alert 1167.jpg

The steering wheel axis was a round workpiece. Then he made a stern and adjusted it to its place.

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And since this part, like the rest, intersects the waterline, it will be two-tone.

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He marked the waterline in the same way as before on the front fragment. Glued from two parts: light and dark pear. So far, the difference is not very visible, but after the oil the difference will be very noticeable.

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In the future, the steering wheel will be made according to the same principle. In the meantime, I tried on the steering wheel from the first hull (skeleton).

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And now the most difficult thing awaits me - fixing the outer part of the lower railing-windowsill, and then 2 belts of rails and a reinforced black belt, after which you can sheathe under the stern and then continue the rest of the sheathing... And I can't wait, but I also understand how difficult it will be...

P.S. there is still a lot of work on the sternpost, so it is not yet finished and not fixed. And yet, I forgot to clarify, the stem from above is 6 mm, and from below 4.5 mm, the steering wheel will be the same. When I completely refine it and fix it on this in detail.
 
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I breathed a sigh of relief today. Nobody like @dockattner will understand me. Painful deliberation and calculations have finally paid off.
The starting point today was laid.

The outer part of the sill-railings, which will serve as the foundation from which the sheathing belts will go and down and up. Until the end, I didn't quite understand how I would implement it, and although the result is not yet final (you still need to clean the glue and smooth the joint), something is already looming!

So, I cut 1x10 mm blanks from black hornbeam and yellow boxwood...

Alert 1173.jpg

Glued so that the finished part is enough for the entire length of the case and so that the joints do not intersect. As a result, 2x10 mm blanks were obtained.

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After grinding, they became 1.8x10 mm. Then I cut 1.8x2 mm parts from them.

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In the front of the hull, the bend is stronger, so I made a small radius before fixing with an iron so that the rail would not break.

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To perfectly connect the outer and middle parts of the railing, I used a positioner that is fixed in the port hole with a wooden wedge. Fixed gradually, moving the positioner and pouring liquid CA under the railing.

Alert 1178.jpg

Naturally, I will try to remove everything that will interfere with further work or that will be visible. But for the most part, it will close with other details.

And here is the result! Everything is plus or minus symmetric, so I'm happy.

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I understood. that I will not leave the joints in any way, but this zone will still be finalized and on black hornbeam these joints will be little noticeable..

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Everything is far from perfect, as we would like, but I think, in general, when there is a model assembled - the general view will cover all the shortcomings. In any case, I hope so.

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Now - things will go faster. You just need to glue the skin boards and watch the symmetry. The fun will start near the waterline... eh...

Ship-1
 
I expected the skin to move not quickly, but today I glued 2 belts each (4 planks) ... and this despite the fact that I had these 4 boards prepared a long time ago, and I selected the only 4 that came up and reduced the width from 6 to 5 cm. So I had no room for error at all.

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The fixation itself is not that complicated. It is necessary to press, spill with liquid CA so that it penetrates capillarity under the board and is ready. I still shed from the inside to strengthen the connection. And at the end I will fill all the gaps with glue and this forms one monolith. It was more difficult to clean, fit and chamfer everything for a better fit and to create gaps between the boards.

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But the result suited me.

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After grinding, the result was even better...

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Well, do not forget about symmetry either.

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From this perspective, in the hand - it is already beginning to resemble a ship.

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The next in line is the power belt (rubbing piece). It will be two-layer. Since the black hornbeam bends poorly, I decided to do first 0.8-0.9mm and on top of the main layer, so that in total it would be visually visible that the power board is thicker than ordinary boards.
 
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