1/48 L'Egyptienne Frigate

[Steef66]

not so much
keep in mind, that the
1) Egyptienne is really a very big and looooong vessel, so much more frames than usual
2) I guess only for the frames and cantframes etc a modeler will need 1 year or more for building, maybe 200 to 400 working hours only for the keel with frames
so in total costs per modeling hour scratch building is a very very cheap hobby
This I am telling everytime my wife, when a new box with new tools are arriving
Drinking beer in a bar is much more expensive

Just explained it to my wife in your exact words. She didn't buy it

 

[Gventura]

Moving right along, worked on the jig board today.

1/4" on top and 1/2" on the bottom for more stability.



Used the trusty rubber glue and pasted one of the copies to the top board. Highlighted the widest line no. 10. Let me tell you that was harder than one would think to do correctly.

Once that was done transferred the location of the frames onto the board for reference later.



Transfered them onto one side using the plate, and then took the plate off and transfered them across to the other. It's not perfect but will do the job. After the transfer cut out the center of the board using the highlighted line and cleaned up on the spindle sander.



Finally, aligned the 2nd copy of the plate with the cut board, then glued it to the bottom board to make sure it was perfectly aligned.



Tomorrow will be cleaning up the excess paper, installing the supports.

Funny thing is the way the copies frames were printed they weren't centered, something I didn't realize when I started doing this so now the ship will be off center. Oops. Oh well.

 

[Bird]

Moving right along, worked on the jig board today.

1/4" on top and 1/2" on the bottom for more stability.

View attachment 308997

Used the trusty rubber glue and pasted one of the copies to the top board. Highlighted the widest line no. 10. Let me tell you that was harder than one would think to do correctly.

Once that was done transferred the location of the frames onto the board for reference later.

View attachment 308998

Transfered them onto one side using the plate, and then took the plate off and transfered them across to the other. It's not perfect but will do the job. After the transfer cut out the center of the board using the highlighted line and cleaned up on the spindle sander.

View attachment 309000

Finally, aligned the 2nd copy of the plate with the cut board, then glued it to the bottom board to make sure it was perfectly aligned.

View attachment 308999

Tomorrow will be cleaning up the excess paper, installing the supports.

Funny thing is the way the copies frames were printed they weren't centered, something I didn't realize when I started doing this so now the ship will be off center. Oops. Oh well.

Now would be the time to correct that before you get to far .

 

[Gventura]

Now would be the time to correct that before you get to far .

I don't really think it matters. Everything is centered, only one side has an extra inch or so to it.

 

[Uwek]

I don't really think it matters. Everything is centered, only one side has an extra inch or so to it.

Hallo my friend,
maybe you should reconsider it - I think also, that the small side of your board will be too small.
Imagine that you have to drill several holes with a certain diameter inside for the screw bars, and because you have a relatively thin board you have to make more of these bars. So there will be left not much meat of wooden board -> Only for stability reasons
In addition, to fix the frames you need maybe some smaller screws or nails as counter for your rubberbands, ropes etc. with which you fix top timbers of each or some frames. Also these need some wooden area to be installed
The next disadvantage will be, that you have a later on a very small gap between your frames and the screw bars ..... sometimes it will be maybe necessary to get a view along the frames or to touch and check with fingers
BTW: Do you need in future maybe for the stern structure an additional higher level of the jig? This you have to take also into account in the design of your jig

To show what I mean as an example the photos of our member Stefan alias @George I with his jig

Royal George 1714 1:48

Hallo geschätzte Modellbauergemeinde! Ich bin ein Modellbauer aus Österreich, und besuche öfters die Modellbaurunde um Willi Meischl in Wien. Mein großes Ziel ist es die Royal George 1714 (nach dem Hanover Modell) zu bauen. Bauart: Navy Board Model Maßstab: 1:48 Holz: Buchsbaum Mit freundlichen...

shipsofscale.com

In addition, to fix the frames you need maybe some smaller screws or nails as counter for your rubberbands, ropes etc. with which you fix top timbers of each or some frames. Or installing temporary distancers. Also these need some wooden area to be installed
As an example photos by @Giampy65 on his Amarante

L'Amarante - French corvette from 1747 scale 1:30 [COMPLETED BUILD]

I started building this French corvette in April 2013, using Gerard Delacroix's excellent monograph. For its construction I used pear, ebony, Brazilian boxwood and maple wood for the decking. The model is currently still to be finished as I intend to set it up with its complete sailing...

shipsofscale.com

Later on, when your frames are inside, it will be too late to change something ......

 

[Uwek]

just another example by the Redoutable @Olivers Historic Shipyard

Le Redoutable 1/48

I want to indroduce my follow-up project after my La Belle. Modelling ships is an evolution. For me it is, so i will go one step further and try to draw my own plan for a plank on frame modell. I will try to build the famous Redoutable which has her part in the history in the battle of...

shipsofscale.com

I am pretty sure, that you will need more space on the sides along the hull.

Your Egyptienne has a very long hull, minimum like the model by Oliver

 

[Tobias]

Hi Gventura, yes, I agree with my colleagues, one edge is getting very tight. I was even very generous with my La Palme.

 

[maxi]

At least 5 cm on each side is a minimum

 

[Gventura]

Well after being shamed by my first attempt, haha, I took inspiration from @Olivers Historic Shipyard jig and rebuilt mine. It's nearly done.

After a good amount of searching I found all the materials necessary. It breaks down to:

• 1/4" and 1/2" plywood 48" long.
• CNC aluminum rails and machining screws.

10pcs 48inch T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY 1220mm Silver(48inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KQCHTZL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_81H7F8XRH09SA4R7XMXV

4pcs 400mm T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY Silver(15.75inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874387ZB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GXF7779M0G6AJ8SY530M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

• 5/16" threaded rods with locking washer, washer, and bolt.

Building jig from bottom up. Framing the aluminum rails, because of the sizes I choose I didn't need to cut them.





Matched the plywood to nearly the exact size of the aluminum frame.




Marked the center of the rails for the machining screws, drilled the holes and attached the 1/2" plywood to the frame.



Found the center of the boards, marked them, and used that as a guide to attach Plate 3 as the template.





Cut it out, cleaned it up, lined up the bottom and top boards, and drilled the holes for the rods in order for to make sure they aligned perfectly.



Installed 5 rods in each side. Aligning them at 75VIIar - 56VIIar - 36Mar - 16IIIav - 1VIar

Used bolts, locking washer and washers on each to keep them firmly in place and perfectly aligned.



It's not complete yet but close.



Still working on how to determine the height of the top board. I tried using the Schematic Elevation plan, but couldn't figure out which line it's supposed to be.



Next is to transfer the frame locations to the top board, and install the pieces that will hold keel the height is finalized.

 

[Dematosdg]

WOW....

 

[Bird]

Well after being shamed by my first attempt, haha, I took inspiration from @Olivers Historic Shipyard jig and rebuilt mine. It's nearly done.

After a good amount of searching I found all the materials necessary. It breaks down to:

• 1/4" and 1/2" plywood 48" long.
• CNC aluminum rails and machining screws.

10pcs 48inch T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY 1220mm Silver(48inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KQCHTZL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_81H7F8XRH09SA4R7XMXV

4pcs 400mm T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY Silver(15.75inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874387ZB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GXF7779M0G6AJ8SY530M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

• 5/16" threaded rods with locking washer, washer, and bolt.

Building jig from bottom up. Framing the aluminum rails, because of the sizes I choose I didn't need to cut them.

View attachment 310743

View attachment 310744

Matched the plywood to nearly the exact size of the aluminum frame.


View attachment 310745

Marked the center of the rails for the machining screws, drilled the holes and attached the 1/2" plywood to the frame.

View attachment 310746

Found the center of the boards, marked them, and used that as a guide to attach Plate 3 as the template.

View attachment 310747

View attachment 310748

Cut it out, cleaned it up, lined up the bottom and top boards, and drilled the holes for the rods in order for to make sure they aligned perfectly.

View attachment 310749

Installed 5 rods in each side. Aligning them at 75VIIar - 56VIIar - 36Mar - 16IIIav - 1VIar

Used bolts, locking washer and washers on each to keep them firmly in place and perfectly aligned.

View attachment 310750

It's not complete yet but close.

View attachment 310751

Still working on how to determine the height of the top board. I tried using the Schematic Elevation plan, but couldn't figure out which line it's supposed to be.

View attachment 310752

Next is to transfer the frame locations to the top board, and install the pieces that will hold keel the height is finalized.

Looking good!!

 

[Tobias]

Well after being shamed by my first attempt, haha, I took inspiration from @Olivers Historic Shipyard jig and rebuilt mine. It's nearly done.

After a good amount of searching I found all the materials necessary. It breaks down to:

• 1/4" and 1/2" plywood 48" long.
• CNC aluminum rails and machining screws.

10pcs 48inch T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY 1220mm Silver(48inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08KQCHTZL/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_81H7F8XRH09SA4R7XMXV

4pcs 400mm T Slot 2020 Aluminum Extrusion European Standard Anodized Linear Rail for 3D Printer Parts and CNC DIY Silver(15.75inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0874387ZB/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_GXF7779M0G6AJ8SY530M?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

• 5/16" threaded rods with locking washer, washer, and bolt.

Building jig from bottom up. Framing the aluminum rails, because of the sizes I choose I didn't need to cut them.

View attachment 310743

View attachment 310744

Matched the plywood to nearly the exact size of the aluminum frame.


View attachment 310745

Marked the center of the rails for the machining screws, drilled the holes and attached the 1/2" plywood to the frame.

View attachment 310746

Found the center of the boards, marked them, and used that as a guide to attach Plate 3 as the template.

View attachment 310747

View attachment 310748

Cut it out, cleaned it up, lined up the bottom and top boards, and drilled the holes for the rods in order for to make sure they aligned perfectly.

View attachment 310749

Installed 5 rods in each side. Aligning them at 75VIIar - 56VIIar - 36Mar - 16IIIav - 1VIar

Used bolts, locking washer and washers on each to keep them firmly in place and perfectly aligned.

View attachment 310750

It's not complete yet but close.

View attachment 310751

Still working on how to determine the height of the top board. I tried using the Schematic Elevation plan, but couldn't figure out which line it's supposed to be.

View attachment 310752

Next is to transfer the frame locations to the top board, and install the pieces that will hold keel the height is finalized.

Hi Gventura look at the following plans there you can see that you should use line 10 for the height.







I hope I could help, by the way great jig you built.

 

[Gventura]

Hi Gventura look at the following plans there you can see that you should use line 10 for the height.

View attachment 310753

View attachment 310754

View attachment 310755

I hope I could help, by the way great jig you built.

Thank you!

I thought it was the 10 line but there didn't seem to be any curvature on it and I thought I read somewhere it should curve some. But looking at other jigs some are perfectly flat. I'll take some measurements and see.

 

[Bird]

Hello Gventura , I remember you saying that you had copies of your prints done at staples or another place, I did the same for my Sussex model and I noticed that the prints they did were a little bit off scale and I thought you might want to check them against the originals just to be sure, I'm a little bit disappointed with staples..

 

[Gventura]

Hello Gventura , I remember you saying that you had copies of your prints done at staples or another place, I did the same for my Sussex model and I noticed that the prints they did were a little bit off scale and I thought you might want to check them against the originals just to be sure, I'm a little bit disappointed with staples..

Thanks for the heads up. I checked what I got from Fedex, the scanned files look perfect, and when I printed them on my printer and compared them to the plates they are identical. It does look like the one plate that I got printed by Fedex is distorted some, looks like it may be off by a few % points. In the past I've found that sometimes the scan to print process can require a 3% increase or decrease in size to make it accurate.

So basically it looks like my cutting on my build board may be off a little bit.

 

[Bird]

Thanks for the heads up. I checked what I got from Fedex, the scanned files look perfect, and when I printed them on my printer and compared them to the plates they are identical. It does look like the one plate that I got printed by Fedex is distorted some, looks like it may be off by a few % points. In the past I've found that sometimes the scan to print process can require a 3% increase or decrease in size to make it accurate.

So basically it looks like my cutting on my build board may be off a little bit.

OK good, mine where a bit off so I'm trying to work with the originals but I hate to destroy them..

 

[Gventura]

OK good, mine where a bit off so I'm trying to work with the originals but I hate to destroy them..

I would take them back, tell them they made a printing mistake. Take the original plates with you and see if they'll redo them. I'm sure if you tell them they were supposed to be exact copies and they are not because their printer printed them wrong they'll reprint them.

 

[Bird]

I would take them back, tell them they made a printing mistake. Take the original plates with you and see if they'll redo them. I'm sure if you tell them they were supposed to be exact copies and they are not because their printer printed them wrong they'll reprint them.

It was a while ago, the smaller size came out fine just the big ones where off , and I started to realize some things came up a little short I believe because of the pencil lines made the print a little bigger

 

[Gventura]

, good news, the build jig is complete. Finally figured out there was an error with the scans, they got scanned at a slight angle which caused them to print wrong. Was able to fix the issue and put together a new top board. I now need to go and rescan all the other sheets to move forward but progress has been made.

The top and bottom align perfectly.



Happy to finally be able to move on to actually build something.

 

[Bird]

, good news, the build jig is complete. Finally figured out there was an error with the scans, they got scanned at a slight angle which caused them to print wrong. Was able to fix the issue and put together a new top board. I now need to go and rescan all the other sheets to move forward but progress has been made.

The top and bottom align perfectly.

View attachment 373814

Happy to finally be able to move on to actually build something.

View attachment 373815

Glad to see your back working on her !!!