I agree, there are a lot of 3d information and file sharing sites but very little information related to ships.
If this is a sample of resin printing for sure filament printing cant hold a candle to this. I could never get this quality with my printer.
May I ask how big the resin printer is? How many segments in the hull?
A Mighty 4K. Fourteen hull sections in all.
Very nice detail indeed. Thanks
A cautionary note from me - in principle the savings should be huge but there is a relationship between your skill level at both designing and printing, and the cost. If I'm honest with myself (and as a realist, I usually am), the volume of resin and filament in my scrap bin far, far outweighs the volume that has made it on to a model or project and I could have bought all the aftermarket bits many times over, and then some, with the amount of money I've spent on 3D stuff. But would I change this? Not really. I enjoy the problem solving too much, and the (probably futile) quest for perfection.
Jack, I did the same thing. I have also found that bed temperature also makes a big difference as well. One tip while using glass is to let the bed temperature cool down before removing the part.
I'll second that - I have a divot on what is now the underside of my glass plate from when I didn't wait. Once it's cooled, the parts have often self-separated. Just to reiterate, use 3DLAC if you can get hold of it. Much better than tape, pritt stick etc. While I'm doing product promotion, can I recommend AnyCubic silk PLA filament. I'm making a 3D printed pendulum clock at the moment, and this filament really is the business. The layers in the photo are 0.2 deep x 0.4 wide, using a 0.4 nozzle, on an ender3 pro. In contrast to various other brands that I've used, there is virtually zero stringing, bed and layer adhesion is exactly as you'd wish, and all dozen or so gears have printed beautifully. The one in the photo is about 50mm OD and I'm especially impressed with how it's handled the 8mm spindle. I'm mentioning this because I've never before been able to find a filament that was clearly head and shoulders better than the competition. Even big name, highly reputable makes have seemed little different to a random, cheap chinese brand. But I'm impressed enough with this to want to check out other FDM products in their stable. (For balance, I really didn't like their standard resin, think I still have a half-bottle somewhere).
I recognize that gear! Or one very, very much like it! An entire family of them are keeping perfect time on the wall behind me as I type.
Printing black and not painting is not a good idea. The print has a shine, and this is bad. I paint with a spray can of matte paint based on acrylics. I describe the whole process of modeling, printing and painting in my build thread.
Steve Peterson clock? I'm enjoying this little project, I've wanted to make a clock for years but didn't really know where to begin. For anyone interested, Steve's clocks are a classy bit of 3D printing design, well worth a look and not that expensive
Agree, but more because the painting protects the prints from further UV exposure, which makes them more brittle.
Yes, that is the place. I have printed 4 so far. One works very reliably (32 day with the side pendulum), the smaller version of that that worked for 7 weeks and then stopped for some reason and I haven't tinkered with it, the Moon Phase one that is waiting for assembly and the Coupe Purdu one that is waiting for parts and then assembly.
