3d printing

Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
the prints look good so i need a resin printer to get a clean nice print

thanks Bill for the print test.

now i am going to see how a 4 and 6 pound cannon will print at 1/4 scale

here are the files
Click to expand...
Dave, Here are those 2 files. Same parms run time 2 hrs. I ran both file objects on the same print run. Taller object more layers. BillCannon.jpg
 
i think those really look good

so those were a 2 hour printing? yikes! that makes it not very practical to print guns for a kit when you need 28 guns for a Hahn confederacy.
but it is not man hours its machine time.

when you print these are the cannons standing up vertical or laying down horizonal?

did you have to use supports for the trunnion sticking out at the sides and the ball at the end?


i am trying to work out an alternative for the pewter cast guns i am supplying with the Hahn timbering sets. The person who has been doing the castings is telling me pewter casting in a death spiral the natural rubber for making molds is no longer available in the US. When you buy it out of the country the cost and shipping is outrageous and the cost of pewter is skyrocketing out of control.
 
Is these a second view from another angle of this engine?

yes there is a front, back right and left view and a CAD drawing in the works.

that project was going to be an engine room diorama of the Indiana. My problem right now is not knowing enough about steam engines to know what some parts look like. If you are interested in the engine we can start a project topic and i can post all i have.
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
i think those really look good

so those were a 2 hour printing? yikes! that makes it not very practical to print guns for a kit when you need 28 guns for a Hahn confederacy.
but it is not man hours its machine time.

when you print these are the cannons standing up vertical or laying down horizonal?

did you have to use supports for the trunnion sticking out at the sides and the ball at the end?


i am trying to work out an alternative for the pewter cast guns i am supplying with the Hahn timbering sets. The person who has been doing the castings is telling me pewter casting in a death spiral the natural rubber for making molds is no longer available in the US. When you buy it out of the country the cost and shipping is outrageous and the cost of pewter is skyrocketing out of control.
Click to expand...
Dave you can print / replicate the feature. I can print 28 in 2 sessions. I actually did three of each. Rarely there is a support failure but they do happen. Also they are fragile until they cure a bit.
I like them horizontal. Verticle would be time consuming. 3 sec per .015mm exposure, another 10 sec lift/plunge/ reset . At 13 sec per layer that's 36mm piece/10 mm platform (3066 layers x 13 sec = 11 hours) Check my math. But you could definitely get all 28 in one session. I let the machine select where the supports are and there were 8 down the gun, one each on the trunnions and one on the button. I selected smallest supports.
 
I like them horizontal. Verticle would be time consuming.

hum interesting i was going to try horizonal but i thought what about the bore hole there is no support so would it collapse in on itself?
 
print testing a 4 and 6 pound cannon at 1/4 scale

here are the cannons as printed the block at the bottom is the support structure for the trunnions

DSCN7779.jpgDSCN7785.jpg

it looks scarry and how do you get the cannons out of the block. Well the support structure can be adjusted. it is actually hollow

DSCN7788.jpg
 
You'll never get "fine" detail with a filament printer because the layers are significantly thicker than a resin printer lays down. Most folks here are working is smaller scales than I am, and for carvings, guns, wheels, figures, anchors, and all the details 3D printing can provide, filament can't come close to resin in that regard.
It's good for printing hulls and bigger stuff where detail isn't an issue, and even then it requires some level of "finishing" like sanding and filling you don't usually need to do to resin part.

A 10 inch Dahlgren pivot gun...

Period drawing
x_inch_dahlgren_pivot.png

3D model
x_dahlgren_pivot_.png

Resin printed 1:36 scale model partially painted
ng20240405a.jpg
 
You'll never get "fine" detail with a filament printer because the layers are significantly thicker than a resin printer lays down.

No doubt about it i can see it in the test i have been doing.
 
Dave Stevens (Lumberyard) said:
I like them horizontal. Verticle would be time consuming.

hum interesting i was going to try horizonal but i thought what about the bore hole there is no support so would it collapse in on itself?
Click to expand...
I've never experienced collapse on the bore hole. In my experience, there appears to be enough structural integrity to span about 3/16" at .015mm layers. I imagine thickness of the layer and cycle time has much to do with where the supports are placed. Resin is hardened by layer through glass with UV lighting from the bottom. The build plate then rises to allow resin to cover the bottom of the previously hardeded layer. Then lowers to the build plate and the process recycles. Structures are built upside down.
 
wow you guys blow me away!
whenever i visit microcenter, i stop at the 3d printers and marvel at all the hardware available which seems to confuse me the most... its intimidating. then the 3d software is a chalange.

i once worked in autocad and did parametric programing in lisp... but only for drafting firms. back when autocad hit the market, it was exclusively for professionals in engineering and way too expensive for a hobbiest. the later add on 3d modeler and animator was far too davanced for me at that point.

the very first 3d printers were uv extruders and still in the experimental stages.

this technology has certainly come a long way and is very affordable. but i doubt this old dog will be able to learn any new tricks.
 
this technology has certainly come a long way and is very affordable. but i doubt this old dog will be able to learn any new tricks.

if you have a back round in CAD any CAD software you more than halfway there. for sure CAD and 3D printing has come a long way, back in school i took shop classes using the typical woodworking tools. Shop classes have changes and my grandsons took shop and it was all CAD 3D printing and robotics.

there are so many free CAD programs, You Tube how to videos and forms like this one to help.

learning 3d printing is easy i starting from knowing nothing, was given a printer and figured it out in a week. Now i am tweaking 3D printing and refining it but the basic is kids stuff, it is taught in high school.

after years of model ship building i found myself getting bored. All ships are pretty much built the same with the same construction and parts. Now with 3D modeling it expanded the hobby to creating a diorama of an engine room or better yet a diorama of steam ship under construction or if you really want to get fancy a steam engine that can actually move. CAD and 3D printing has set a much higher bar in model engineering.
 
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