A Dutch Fluyt in shell first, reconstructing the "Ghost ship" scale 1:36

Maarten said:
The sun was shining today so some corse sanding of the inside of the hull.
For this I use the Proxxon angled grinder with a sanding disc.
Works perfectly and fast.
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The high speed gives some discoloration which can be easily sanded away afterwards.
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The last oplangen in the stern are fitted.
Above the short ones on both sides of the sternpost the loading doors will be cut afterwards.
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After this I will fit the top wale above the scheerstrook.
Click to expand...
It is always interesting to watch your work. There is something unusual and very interesting in it. Recreating such a vessel is not just work with a set but a real historical event))
 
To install the lower wales I have temporary removed the model from her berth.
As my scheerstrook was fitted between the top wale and second wale I added the bow and stern top wales before removing her.
During installation of these top wale sections I realized that on the ghostship the scheerstrook should have been between the two lower wales.
On fluyt ships there are three wales, in most cases the scheerstrook is positioned between the two top wales but sometimes also the two lower wales. The s heerstrook is in principle the line of greatest breadth and if you look at temporary paintings you see the greatest breadth at the stern in sometimes between the two top wales and sometimes between the two lower wales.
On the ship below between the two lower wales.
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On this ship between the two higher wales.
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I have found plenty of these examples.
But after additional research on the wreck I found this.
ghost (1).jpg
ghost (1).jpg

Here you clearly see the greatest breadth is between the two lower wales. The top wale is already severely curved inside to create the extreme tumblehome of the fluyt stern.
rov-at-stern (1).png

This means on my model I have to change this and my top wale and scheerstrook needs to be removed and the frames curved inward.
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To do this I need to fit the lower wales to create strength when removing the top wale and scheerstrook.
So the ship needs to me removed and lower wale and "volling" planks between the wales, should be added.
That is where she currently is. Onle the lowest wale should still be added.
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Next time fitting the lower wale and removing the top wale and scheerstrook at the stern.
The bow is ok, here only the scheerstrook will be removed and replaced for a volling.
 
First of all: it is beautiful to see her in a free-standing position with her beautiful lines. Always an exciting moment.
Without original descriptions and drawings you are constantly looking at material that is available. With the experience you have gained with your construction so far, the reality is that some items are now becoming clearer. Things are a bit more easier to interpret. Then it is only admirable that you adapt this in your model. It would become increasingly objectionable with each subsequent step.
I will continue to follow it with interest.
Regards, Peter
 
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