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Wow! I just re-discovered this log. Very impressive! I hope you'll have me along for the ride.
Pete
Pete
A Dutch Fluyt in shell first, reconstructing the "Ghost ship" scale 1:36
- Thread starter Maarten
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- dutch fluit
It is always interesting to watch your work. There is something unusual and very interesting in it. Recreating such a vessel is not just work with a set but a real historical event))
To install the lower wales I have temporary removed the model from her berth.
As my scheerstrook was fitted between the top wale and second wale I added the bow and stern top wales before removing her.
During installation of these top wale sections I realized that on the ghostship the scheerstrook should have been between the two lower wales.
On fluyt ships there are three wales, in most cases the scheerstrook is positioned between the two top wales but sometimes also the two lower wales. The s heerstrook is in principle the line of greatest breadth and if you look at temporary paintings you see the greatest breadth at the stern in sometimes between the two top wales and sometimes between the two lower wales.
On the ship below between the two lower wales.
On this ship between the two higher wales.
I have found plenty of these examples.
But after additional research on the wreck I found this.
Here you clearly see the greatest breadth is between the two lower wales. The top wale is already severely curved inside to create the extreme tumblehome of the fluyt stern.
This means on my model I have to change this and my top wale and scheerstrook needs to be removed and the frames curved inward.
To do this I need to fit the lower wales to create strength when removing the top wale and scheerstrook.
So the ship needs to me removed and lower wale and "volling" planks between the wales, should be added.
That is where she currently is. Onle the lowest wale should still be added.
Next time fitting the lower wale and removing the top wale and scheerstrook at the stern.
The bow is ok, here only the scheerstrook will be removed and replaced for a volling.
As my scheerstrook was fitted between the top wale and second wale I added the bow and stern top wales before removing her.
During installation of these top wale sections I realized that on the ghostship the scheerstrook should have been between the two lower wales.
On fluyt ships there are three wales, in most cases the scheerstrook is positioned between the two top wales but sometimes also the two lower wales. The s heerstrook is in principle the line of greatest breadth and if you look at temporary paintings you see the greatest breadth at the stern in sometimes between the two top wales and sometimes between the two lower wales.
On the ship below between the two lower wales.
On this ship between the two higher wales.
I have found plenty of these examples.
But after additional research on the wreck I found this.
Here you clearly see the greatest breadth is between the two lower wales. The top wale is already severely curved inside to create the extreme tumblehome of the fluyt stern.
This means on my model I have to change this and my top wale and scheerstrook needs to be removed and the frames curved inward.
To do this I need to fit the lower wales to create strength when removing the top wale and scheerstrook.
So the ship needs to me removed and lower wale and "volling" planks between the wales, should be added.
That is where she currently is. Onle the lowest wale should still be added.
Next time fitting the lower wale and removing the top wale and scheerstrook at the stern.
The bow is ok, here only the scheerstrook will be removed and replaced for a volling.
First of all: it is beautiful to see her in a free-standing position with her beautiful lines. Always an exciting moment.
Without original descriptions and drawings you are constantly looking at material that is available. With the experience you have gained with your construction so far, the reality is that some items are now becoming clearer. Things are a bit more easier to interpret. Then it is only admirable that you adapt this in your model. It would become increasingly objectionable with each subsequent step.
I will continue to follow it with interest.
Regards, Peter
Without original descriptions and drawings you are constantly looking at material that is available. With the experience you have gained with your construction so far, the reality is that some items are now becoming clearer. Things are a bit more easier to interpret. Then it is only admirable that you adapt this in your model. It would become increasingly objectionable with each subsequent step.
I will continue to follow it with interest.
Regards, Peter
Thx gents for all likes and comments.
Yes building like this will be sometimes trial and error and adjustment but that is all part of the fun.
Yes building like this will be sometimes trial and error and adjustment but that is all part of the fun.
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Just remarkable. A fascinating and instructive bit of historic re-construction and engineering. I am enthralled!
No, it is just a small redo. Just some trimming to the top of the oplangen in the aft part of the hull.
To give you an idea.
Dismantling on the stern has started.
The stern top wale on the PS is removed. I have printed the sternview of my Delftship model and fitted inside to give you an idea of the approximate shape.
The sanding starts, beautiful weather so working in the garden. The PS side is roughly shaped.
On to the SB side, removing the stern top wale and the scheerstrook.
You can now clearly see the difference between the PS and SB side.
To determine the shape I decided to place some of the top timbers.
Again my delftship drawing came in helpfull.
The outward and inward radius of the stern top timber is the same as the radius of the center frame bilge. If I compare it to my centre frame template.
Additionally I made the a set up of the stern frame to create the shape of the upper hull with "cent latten" strakes in a later stage of the build.
These parts I remove again as I will first fit the lower wales and then start working on the ceiling planks. These are now still easily accesible and will be far mote difficult when the toptimber are fitted.
Some last pictures of the beautiful fluyt shape.
Next time the lower wale.
The stern top wale on the PS is removed. I have printed the sternview of my Delftship model and fitted inside to give you an idea of the approximate shape.
The sanding starts, beautiful weather so working in the garden. The PS side is roughly shaped.
On to the SB side, removing the stern top wale and the scheerstrook.
You can now clearly see the difference between the PS and SB side.
To determine the shape I decided to place some of the top timbers.
Again my delftship drawing came in helpfull.
The outward and inward radius of the stern top timber is the same as the radius of the center frame bilge. If I compare it to my centre frame template.
Additionally I made the a set up of the stern frame to create the shape of the upper hull with "cent latten" strakes in a later stage of the build.
These parts I remove again as I will first fit the lower wales and then start working on the ceiling planks. These are now still easily accesible and will be far mote difficult when the toptimber are fitted.
Some last pictures of the beautiful fluyt shape.
Next time the lower wale.
A paper mold is always a great help by aligning, Maarten. Nice to see how the lines of the stern got there shape.
Regards, Peter
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What a stunning and impressive model. Very instructive and wonderful scale woodworking! Quite a tutorial. 
