Herman, thank you for that link back to Peter’s build. I had forgotten how excellent his Hohenzollernmodell is.
XXXThat is an extraordinary model, Rodolphe! Is the model contemporary to the 17th C, or by a modern builder? The carved work is so fine.
XXXYour observation of the flat shape of the bottoms of Dutch warships up to at least the 70s is accurate. Something must have changed the design in the last decades of the century or the first ones of the next, because all the drawings that gradually begin to appear in these years show much more V-shaped ships. I guess it must have something to do with speed. But who am I?
As to the colors of my Akerboomr: as I said I am hardly an expert on colors, but this 'recipe' came from my Artitec friend Herbert Tomesen. I trust his sense of color better than mine. If he says green was not really used for the upper works, I simply believe him.![]()
XXXNice try Jules.
Thanks a lot - due to illness I am recently "out of order" and do not want to risk the hole project by bringing in some less good parts as I'll build them now.Interesting build and I can't wait to see the rest of the model go together I love your method of research and the end results
So this isn't the construction water line (I construced today), Ab?Suggestions? No, just curious where you need that waterline shape for. I must have build a hundred ship models in my long life, but so far I never felt the need for a waterline shape.I follow you with much interest, hoping to learn...
Thanks a lot, Ab! Yes that is a different path you did use - much more straight foreward. I have to left behind my very German overengeneering tendencies and stay with your clever cut of corners to get the same result.Ah, now I understand what you're up to.
You are right, this is indeed a waterline. But I never constructed it like you did. I cut slits in my frames at the same height (call it waterline height, but I usually use the line of the lower deck), combined my frames with the central 'spine', and shove a rectangular piece of card into the frames up to the spine from both sides in. Then I marked the contour on the card, took it out and cut. No construction on paper needed, just simple scribe and cut.
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You are following a different path by not adding the lower deck, which put me on the wrong track.
I usually use the deck line for this longitudinal part, thus combining two functions in one, like here for a pinas model (The front part was the cable tier, which was closed, so here I partly took the hight of the upper deck):
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You are doing fine Chris, sorry for not understanding immediately.