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American Scout C-2 Cargo Ship by Sterling Models

when i scratch built my battleship HMS Warspite which is about 52" long, i made the skeletal frame out of 1/4" thick & frames 1/2" wide balsa but glued in sections then carved to shape. the hull plating was made using .040" styrene sheets in long & wide pieces where the hull was flat & shorter & narrower pieces were the hull curved. used wood glue for joining the balsa pieces together & Testors tube plastic glue to glue the styrene pieces to the balsa frame & & to each other. still have the hull in 1 piece after over 35yrs.
 
Davidp said:
when i scratch built my battleship HMS Warspite which is about 52" long, i made the skeletal frame out of 1/4" thick & frames 1/2" wide balsa but glued in sections then carved to shape. the hull plating was made using .040" styrene sheets in long & wide pieces where the hull was flat & shorter & narrower pieces were the hull curved. used wood glue for joining the balsa pieces together & Testors tube plastic glue to glue the styrene pieces to the balsa frame & & to each other. still have the hull in 1 piece after over 35yrs.
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Do you have pictures?
 
have not taken pictures of my 1/144 scale warships that are built using this method. they are all 30+ years old & none finished as they are to be radio controlled, life changes. i have 6 1/144 scale ship with 5 using balsa frames with plastic skin & 1 that is all balsa frame & skin.
the only pictures are of my smaller scale ships from 1/300 scale & smaller like these using Revell's 1/429 scale model of the USS Arizona to build all 16 battleship from the Wyoming class to the Colorado class during ww2 plus an extra 1 post ww2 as a missile/gunnery training ship.

101_0296.JPG

101_0564.JPG

OBB Row.jpg
 
Davidp said:
have not taken pictures of my 1/144 scale warships that are built using this method. they are all 30+ years old & none finished as they are to be radio controlled, life changes. i have 6 1/144 scale ship with 5 using balsa frames with plastic skin & 1 that is all balsa frame & skin.
the only pictures are of my smaller scale ships from 1/300 scale & smaller like these using Revell's 1/429 scale model of the USS Arizona to build all 16 battleship from the Wyoming class to the Colorado class during ww2 plus an extra 1 post ww2 as a missile/gunnery training ship.

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wow David, thats a awesome collection of ship models.
 
Hi David,
Just tuned into your build and it brought back a flood of memories as I sailed as an engine cadet on one of her sister C2-S-AJ5 ships the SS American Merchant from NY across the North Atlantic in January and February 1967. She was launched in 1945 so worse for wear by the time I was on board. Worst seas I ever saw but as I was pretty much an inexperienced kid, I thought it was normal and a lot of fun. Looking forward to your progress.
Allan
 
AllanKP69 said:
Hi David,
Just tuned into your build and it brought back a flood of memories as I sailed as an engine cadet on one of her sister C2-S-AJ5 ships the SS American Merchant from NY across the North Atlantic in January and February 1967. She was launched in 1945 so worse for wear by the time I was on board. Worst seas I ever saw but as I was pretty much an inexperienced kid, I thought it was normal and a lot of fun. Looking forward to your progress.
Allan
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Thanks for the story, Allan! It’s good to hear from you. I’m amazed at how much nostalgia is generated by these old ship models. Keep me in your prayers as I plug away trying to determine which parts go where. It looks like I may have to create some myself.
Vic
 
You getting the strong back established, I might suggest adding some horizontal supports about where the waterline would be to give support to frames when bottom is cut off.
 
Kurt Konrath said:
You getting the strong back established, I might suggest adding some horizontal supports about where the waterline would be to give support to frames when bottom is cut off.
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Davidp said:
no fancy curves on that hull compared to the real ship so should be easy to waterline it.
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Great observations! I will definitely keep all in mind. And Kurt, are you suggesting I’m getting a strong back from all the bending over?;)
Vic
 
does the kit's instructions show were the waterline is or do you have to find it yourself thru other means?
 
This is a cargo ship so there are several waterlines. In addition to the Naval Architect’s light ship water line, there are several water lines, or more properly Load Lines assigned by shipping authorities. These are shown by the Plimsoll mark on the side of the hull. There is:

A summer load line
A winter load line
A winter North Atlantic Load Line
A fresh water load line.

The ship is loaded so suit these various circumstances.

Roger
 
your plans show the waterline is 22' above the keel bottom, is that at empty, standard or max load because the plans i linked earlier shows 25' 9" loaded? find out from your client if he wants the model to show it is empty or loaded as that will change the waterline height.
 
Davidp said:
your plans show the waterline is 22' above the keel bottom, is that at empty, standard or max load because the plans i linked earlier shows 25' 9" loaded? find out from your client if he wants the model to show it is empty or loaded as that will change the waterline height.
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So, I looked up the plans you sent me. At 25’ 9”, the waterline was halfway between the bottom of the ship and the aft portion of the foc’sle. I measured the plan for the model, and it was also halfway up. They are the same. The model is not quite HO scale. There might be 5 feet or so difference in length in real life. Nobody but you would have noticed. Lol. The waterline at the
stern is a little higher (over 27’).
 
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