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American Scout C-2 Cargo Ship by Sterling Models

you need a wood sealer that you should be able to get at a hardware store, lumber yard, home depot or similar. what type of paint are you going to use, latex or oil based?
Latex is easier. That’s something I’ll have to discuss with the owner. He might be interested in using an air brush. I don’t have any experience with that yet.
 
I have never used a wood sealer. I use paint instead. I like the Tamiya primer paints, but any rattle can or brush applied flat paint should work. Paint it and sand, additional coats, until the grain disappears. You will remove nearly all of the first couple of coats. Before priming, you will need some high strength “goo” to fill those vertical seams between mid body and fore end, and I assume at the stern. Otherwise expansion and contraction will cause cracks to reoccur. I would use thickened epoxy.

Roger
 
I agree with Roger about the thickened epoxy for the deeper seams, however I would recommend a thinned out epoxy to fill the pores in the wood grain. After this treatment give it a good sanding and when you are happy with the surface consider a primer and paint combination.

Jim
 
Jim has a point as I have not used balsa as a modeling material since high school era tissue covered airplanes. Thin epoxy will help to strengthen the hull structure. Epoxy is also considered to be compatible with both oil based and acrylic paints.

Roger
 
So, how will epoxy sand?
Epoxy will sand but it's a lot harder than the adjacent wood. You usually end up taking too much wood and not enough epoxy. I would never use epoxy over wood but that's just me. One exception is to dilute epoxy 50% and slosh it around inside your hull. Fills in all the gaps and helps make the hull water tight if it is to go in the water.
 
All of my ship hulls over the past 20-25 years have been built the same way. Whether for office display models for customers or RC for myself. The hulls have been framed up, planked or sheeted with what ever type of wood ( pine, birch, balsa,) I choose. They were then covered with a thin layer of epoxy and very light fibreglass cloth. After everything was dry and trimmed I applied two to three coats of epoxy finishing resin with light sanding in between coats and then painted. This method has served me well for a perfect hull every time , but the big secret is to never think you are going to cover construction flaws with final coatings of anything. These are some of my finished hulls;

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