I really liked how tight your inner hull planking is. I’m glad mine can’t be see. Those little hinges on all the doors are a pile of fun. I do like how they look however. Looking good.
-
SUBSCRIBE TO SHIPS IN SCALE TODAY!
The beloved Ships in Scale Magazine is back and charting a new course for 2026!
Discover new skills, new techniques, and new inspirations in every issue.
NOTE THAT OUR NEXT ISSUE WILL BE MARCH/APRIL 2026 -
Win a Free Custom Engraved Brass Coin!!!
As a way to introduce our brass coins to the community, we will raffle off a free coin during the month of August. Follow link ABOVE for instructions for entering.
Artesania Latina Anatomy of Lord Nelson’s HMS Victory Trafalgar 1805
- Thread starter TonyJ
- Start date
- Watchers 36
-
- Tags
- artesania latina victory
Thanks Jim
Got the wire from Amazon. It is a little thicker, the AL wire is probably 32 gauge, but it strips easy using your thumb nail.
The only sanding I have done with the hull is; each individual rib etc got a light rub with standard sanding sticks/sponges or the one used by the guy in the videos. When I come to rub down the hull in preparation for planking I will use sanding blocks or maybe an small electric orbital sander and course sanding sticks.
Video 14 - (Part 2- Complete)
Well part 14 was a big one to say the least.
In this part I fit the beam supports and metal brackets. I also carve the remaining posts, paint and fit them.
After I has problems with the blackening rubbing off I prepared the PE with a clean of Acetone (nail polish remover).
They seemed to blacken really well.
But unfortunately the blackening still dried with a chalky residue. I finally painted them black with Mr Surfacer 1500 which locked everything in.
Once removed from the fret I filed off any burrs and touched up any paintwork with a black Sharpie.
It was quite difficult to glue the brackets in place. It was a bit like hanging a picture the bedroom while standing in the corridor. I used a tooth pick with a small amount of white tac to place the parts.
OK the carved posts. I has all intention of using a mini lathe to turn the posts, I had bought one from China very cheap. However I bought it about a year ago and never really looked at it until now. It was now I discovered it was fitted with an American plug. Not to worry I was going shopping with Mrs J later in the day and would pick up an adapter then. But my curiosity got the better of me and I tried to do one freehand. To my complete suprise it was no way near the difficult task I thought it would be. After I did one and thought "That's not bad" I did another. To cut a long story short in about 3 and a half hours all 18 for this deck were done and I felft a quiet sense of achievement.
The tools I used.
There's a handy template to help you.
First rough cut using a file.
A little more filing.
Finished off with a thin sanding sponge.
It's OK to get one right, but then you have to repeat the same.
The big challenge was to get all 18 the same.
Painted using an airbrush. The Victory Brown was a custom mix of Tamiya XF 64 Red Brown with a few drops of black.
To finish of Video 14 the posts are glued in place.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
Well part 14 was a big one to say the least.
In this part I fit the beam supports and metal brackets. I also carve the remaining posts, paint and fit them.
After I has problems with the blackening rubbing off I prepared the PE with a clean of Acetone (nail polish remover).
They seemed to blacken really well.
But unfortunately the blackening still dried with a chalky residue. I finally painted them black with Mr Surfacer 1500 which locked everything in.
Once removed from the fret I filed off any burrs and touched up any paintwork with a black Sharpie.
It was quite difficult to glue the brackets in place. It was a bit like hanging a picture the bedroom while standing in the corridor. I used a tooth pick with a small amount of white tac to place the parts.
OK the carved posts. I has all intention of using a mini lathe to turn the posts, I had bought one from China very cheap. However I bought it about a year ago and never really looked at it until now. It was now I discovered it was fitted with an American plug. Not to worry I was going shopping with Mrs J later in the day and would pick up an adapter then. But my curiosity got the better of me and I tried to do one freehand. To my complete suprise it was no way near the difficult task I thought it would be. After I did one and thought "That's not bad" I did another. To cut a long story short in about 3 and a half hours all 18 for this deck were done and I felft a quiet sense of achievement.
The tools I used.
There's a handy template to help you.
First rough cut using a file.
A little more filing.
Finished off with a thin sanding sponge.
It's OK to get one right, but then you have to repeat the same.
The big challenge was to get all 18 the same.
Painted using an airbrush. The Victory Brown was a custom mix of Tamiya XF 64 Red Brown with a few drops of black.
To finish of Video 14 the posts are glued in place.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
Good morning Tony. I had this problem too and I found the following solved it rather nicely.
Soak the brass in vinegar for at least 30 min. Put the brass into brass black for around 1min. I found if I leave it in too long it forms a dusty cover and doesn’t buff up nicely.
The real key is to let this dry for a long time. I leave it overnight and then buff the part with a dremel wool buffing fitting. It brings the blackened brass up very nicely. Some smaller parts you may need to brass black twice but not often.
You are building animpressive Victory. Very cool indeed. Cheers Grant
Thanks Grant. I will give that a go next time.
Video 15 - (Part 1)
Here I lay the lower gun deck and begin the inner planking (more on this later).
The underside gets one coat of white then a light sand and a second coat.
Top receives a light sand before one coat of stain.
I wanted to test fit the mastsn with the lower deck temporarly in place. But first I prepared the foot of the mast as per the mast instruction sheet. You need to create a 6mm cube. Simply job to chisel the profile.
I then got the depth correct and sanded a chamfer to aid the mast locating into the recess in the hold.
Perfect! Mmmmmm need to blow some of that dust out!
Ok lets get that deck down.
As expected the finger joints didn't want to play ball (as I expected). I once again turned to a technique I call tack gluing. I use this method a lot on my plastic models, especially large area such as the left and right sides of an aircraft fuselage. It basically entails getting only a part of the area to be glue correctly aligned. This is a lot easier than trying to glue the whole finger joint area in one go. Getting all the fingers to sit correctly is difficult.
Above, using a weight I managed to align the fingers near the weight. I made a mix of about 50% PVA to 50% water and ran a loaded brush over the area. Once I had cleaned off any excess and left it for about 30 mins, then I came back and repeated the process. This time I left the glue to set for a few hours. Yes it's slow process but the results are worth it.
More useful objects are used to manoeuvre the fingers.
I was happy with the fit when done.
In this image I have laid the first row of the inner planking, but I am going to stop right there. It has been noted by other modellers (AlanOES and Humble Ship Builder) that there is something not quite right in regard to the instructions. The instructions would have you continue the inner planking up to the next level ending planks flush with the gun port. The problem is when you fit the gun port linings they don't sit against the back of the planking which they should do. AlanOES has posted some excellent images highlighting the issue.
The up come of following the instructions is two fold. 1) It causes an issue drilling the holes for the cannon ropes and 2) You are expected (I think) to fill the area where the planking should be with filler. The guy in the video uses a mix od CA glue and talcum powder. This just looks like messy and an awful amount of hard work!
My solution is to fit the gun port linings first, then install the planking flush with lining.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
In this image I have laid the first row of the inner planking, but I am going to stop right there. It has been noted by other modellers (AlanOES and Humble Ship Builder) that there is something not quite right in regard to the instructions. The instructions would have you continue the inner planking up to the next level ending planks flush with the gun port. The problem is when you fit the gun port linings they don't sit against the back of the planking which they should do. AlanOES has posted some excellent images highlighting the issue.
The up come of following the instructions is two fold. 1) It causes an issue drilling the holes for the cannon ropes and 2) You are expected (I think) to fill the area where the planking should be with filler. The guy in the video uses a mix od CA glue and talcum powder. This just looks like messy and an awful amount of hard work!
My solution is to fit the gun port linings first, then install the planking flush with lining.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
Here I lay the lower gun deck and begin the inner planking (more on this later).
The underside gets one coat of white then a light sand and a second coat.
Top receives a light sand before one coat of stain.
I wanted to test fit the mastsn with the lower deck temporarly in place. But first I prepared the foot of the mast as per the mast instruction sheet. You need to create a 6mm cube. Simply job to chisel the profile.
I then got the depth correct and sanded a chamfer to aid the mast locating into the recess in the hold.
Perfect! Mmmmmm need to blow some of that dust out!
Ok lets get that deck down.
As expected the finger joints didn't want to play ball (as I expected). I once again turned to a technique I call tack gluing. I use this method a lot on my plastic models, especially large area such as the left and right sides of an aircraft fuselage. It basically entails getting only a part of the area to be glue correctly aligned. This is a lot easier than trying to glue the whole finger joint area in one go. Getting all the fingers to sit correctly is difficult.
Above, using a weight I managed to align the fingers near the weight. I made a mix of about 50% PVA to 50% water and ran a loaded brush over the area. Once I had cleaned off any excess and left it for about 30 mins, then I came back and repeated the process. This time I left the glue to set for a few hours. Yes it's slow process but the results are worth it.
More useful objects are used to manoeuvre the fingers.
I was happy with the fit when done.
In this image I have laid the first row of the inner planking, but I am going to stop right there. It has been noted by other modellers (AlanOES and Humble Ship Builder) that there is something not quite right in regard to the instructions. The instructions would have you continue the inner planking up to the next level ending planks flush with the gun port. The problem is when you fit the gun port linings they don't sit against the back of the planking which they should do. AlanOES has posted some excellent images highlighting the issue.
The up come of following the instructions is two fold. 1) It causes an issue drilling the holes for the cannon ropes and 2) You are expected (I think) to fill the area where the planking should be with filler. The guy in the video uses a mix od CA glue and talcum powder. This just looks like messy and an awful amount of hard work!
My solution is to fit the gun port linings first, then install the planking flush with lining.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
In this image I have laid the first row of the inner planking, but I am going to stop right there. It has been noted by other modellers (AlanOES and Humble Ship Builder) that there is something not quite right in regard to the instructions. The instructions would have you continue the inner planking up to the next level ending planks flush with the gun port. The problem is when you fit the gun port linings they don't sit against the back of the planking which they should do. AlanOES has posted some excellent images highlighting the issue.
The up come of following the instructions is two fold. 1) It causes an issue drilling the holes for the cannon ropes and 2) You are expected (I think) to fill the area where the planking should be with filler. The guy in the video uses a mix od CA glue and talcum powder. This just looks like messy and an awful amount of hard work!
My solution is to fit the gun port linings first, then install the planking flush with lining.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
Last edited:
Video 15 - (Part 2)
Sorry in the previous post I seem to have got double ups of text and images. I tried to edit the post but it does not want to Save the Edit. Strange.
Anyway while I was waiting for glue or paint to dry I moved ahead a bit and painted the deck fittings for this deck. I then though I might as well fit them now.
Stained the grating then masked it off.
Sprayed the brown.
Removed the masking.
Another check that the masts still aligned.
Next upo sanding the hull.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
Sorry in the previous post I seem to have got double ups of text and images. I tried to edit the post but it does not want to Save the Edit. Strange.
Anyway while I was waiting for glue or paint to dry I moved ahead a bit and painted the deck fittings for this deck. I then though I might as well fit them now.
Stained the grating then masked it off.
Sprayed the brown.
Removed the masking.
Another check that the masts still aligned.
Next upo sanding the hull.
Thanks for dropping by.
Tony
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2022
- Messages
- 155
- Points
- 113
Hi, congratulations, you're doing a great job. I wanted to point out that, on the side where the structural pieces will be cut to leave only the gunwales, the strips won't be placed as shown in the photo of the work I'm doing.
Columns look great. I remember I didn’t like making them but after getting a few done I figured out the best way for me and started making quality looking columns and fairly quickly.
You are quite right, my mistake, I will pull that row off today. Thanks for the heads up to my error.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2022
- Messages
- 155
- Points
- 113
I'm sorry if I allowed myself to tell you this
No, thanks for pointing it out to me. In fact I've just removed the strip without any real damage, just a bit of sanding to do on the ribs. Thank you
Yep it just takes time and patience.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2022
- Messages
- 155
- Points
- 113
Imagine, however we are at the same point of work, I follow you with pleasure and interest
You may be slightly ahead of me. Today I intend to start sanding the outer hull. Not sure how long this process will take.
- Joined
- Nov 30, 2022
- Messages
- 155
- Points
- 113
Already done, I'm starting to put the slats
Video 16 - (Part 1)
Time for sanding the hull. I intend to take my time here and get the smoothest convex curve I can to lay the planking onto. This was definitely a job to do sitting outside with a few tunes and a couple of beers.
A selection of my sanding tools. In all honesty the vast majority of the hull was sanding using the small yellow hand held sanding block. It has interchangeable sanding pads and fits the hand comfortably.
I started with the bow checking the curve regularly with a strip of wood.
I found the stern to be a little more tricky.
I then ran 4 pairs of wires to each deck above, these will be utilised when I come to add the lights to each deck.
First row.
I wasn't sure if I was going to bend the planks with a bending iron or use the Amati bending pliers you can just see in this picture. In the end I adopted neither of these methods. After soaking the plank in water for about 5 mins I simply shaped the plank between my thumb and forefinger. I was surprised how easily each plank conformed to where I bent it. We will see how this goes with more complex areas of the hull but for now it's a winner for me.
I regularly fitted the beak to check the plank end point, I wanted it to a snug fit.
Whilst it's easily accessible I removed a large portion of the gun port with a small saw.
Happy with that!
At this point I think I really got the majestic shape of the Victory.
The stern was easier to finish. This will be later formed around the rear planking.
Repeat on the other side up to the cutout.
There's going to be a few of these gun ports to clear out.
Thanks for dropping by
Tony
Time for sanding the hull. I intend to take my time here and get the smoothest convex curve I can to lay the planking onto. This was definitely a job to do sitting outside with a few tunes and a couple of beers.
A selection of my sanding tools. In all honesty the vast majority of the hull was sanding using the small yellow hand held sanding block. It has interchangeable sanding pads and fits the hand comfortably.
I started with the bow checking the curve regularly with a strip of wood.
I found the stern to be a little more tricky.
I then ran 4 pairs of wires to each deck above, these will be utilised when I come to add the lights to each deck.
First row.
I wasn't sure if I was going to bend the planks with a bending iron or use the Amati bending pliers you can just see in this picture. In the end I adopted neither of these methods. After soaking the plank in water for about 5 mins I simply shaped the plank between my thumb and forefinger. I was surprised how easily each plank conformed to where I bent it. We will see how this goes with more complex areas of the hull but for now it's a winner for me.
I regularly fitted the beak to check the plank end point, I wanted it to a snug fit.Whilst it's easily accessible I removed a large portion of the gun port with a small saw.
Happy with that!
At this point I think I really got the majestic shape of the Victory.
The stern was easier to finish. This will be later formed around the rear planking.
Repeat on the other side up to the cutout.
There's going to be a few of these gun ports to clear out.
Thanks for dropping by
Tony