Artesania Latina "Swift - 1805" - 40th Anniversary of Purchase Build [COMPLETED BUILD]

[seadeep]

Hi, I found some, but not the whole build. will add them.- it is not always easy to find what you are looking for with a harddisk with more than 40 GBYTE

You raise a very, very valid point. With the large amounts of inexpensive storage we can now have available on our computers, planning and structuring your storage directories becomes a key part of your data backup and archived content plans. If you want to find things, and find them relatively quickly, that's a big consideration.

So now for the bit where I explain how I've gone deep into the rabbit hole of digital storage. lol

I'm a retired IT Manager (I use that as a preface and also an excuse for my behaviour), so you don't want to know what I'm running for NAS (network attached storage) on my home network. 84TB!!! That investment is more than I paid for my first new vehicle back in 1979. lol

 

[El Capi]

From the research I did while building my kit, I'm of the belief that there are four distinct versions of the kit. I've actually built the model twice, albeit the first one was my very first wooden ship kit... and built over forty years ago. That first one was also the first release of the kit by Artesania Latina, and is the same as the one you built. This build log is based on the second version of the Swift kit, also from decades ago. Then there was a third version in which they adjusted some of the running rigging and added a couple of cannons to the kit. And then lastly, their fourth release which is the one using CD/DVD media and gong with the single planked/painted route.

Semi-related aside... I tend to buy my PCs from Dell, and then customize the build to meet my needs. One of those needs is to always have a CD/DVD/Blueray device available for both reading and creating discs of my own content (vacation movies and slide shows). The good news is that if someone has a PC or laptop that doesn't have a disc player, you can readily find inexpensive USB connected devices on Amazon and other sources. A quick search on Amazon yielded a PC attached CD/DVD player for $23 CAD, and a player/burner (creator) CD/DVD/Blueray for $70 CAD. I have an older version of one of these that I used to use with a Windows 10 tablet when I was working away from home. Lots of options if one needs to be able to play content from disc.

Thanks for your info. Yes, I will have to buy a Burner and Reading devise -USB -
I have never been a computer expert, so although I try to de-file my info -diving into the group, but maybe not the right way. i may later ask you for some advice

 

[El Capi]

From the research I did while building my kit, I'm of the belief that there are four distinct versions of the kit. I've actually built the model twice, albeit the first one was my very first wooden ship kit... and built over forty years ago. That first one was also the first release of the kit by Artesania Latina, and is the same as the one you built. This build log is based on the second version of the Swift kit, also from decades ago. Then there was a third version in which they adjusted some of the running rigging and added a couple of cannons to the kit. And then lastly, their fourth release which is the one using CD/DVD media and gong with the single planked/painted route.

Semi-related aside... I tend to buy my PCs from Dell, and then customize the build to meet my needs. One of those needs is to always have a CD/DVD/Blueray device available for both reading and creating discs of my own content (vacation movies and slide shows). The good news is that if someone has a PC or laptop that doesn't have a disc player, you can readily find inexpensive USB connected devices on Amazon and other sources. A quick search on Amazon yielded a PC attached CD/DVD player for $23 CAD, and a player/burner (creator) CD/DVD/Blueray for $70 CAD. I have an older version of one of these that I used to use with a Windows 10 tablet when I was working away from home. Lots of options if one needs to be able to play content from disc.

will come back

 

[Ted Robinson]

Now that the false keel and bulkheads have been glued up and confirmed straight, the blocking for shaping the bow, stern, and mast supports are glued in place. Now to add the deck. I drew on my centre line, and the lines to show the locations of the bulkheads.
View attachment 435206

Then this was glued to the keel/bulkheads and temporarily secured by both the provided brass pin nails along with painters tape. I then added more Weldbond (glue) from the underside along the edge of each bulkhead where they came in contact with the deck.
View attachment 435209

Using a combination of a rotary tool with a grinding drum, I shaped the bow and stern blocks. I then used a flat file to shape the edges of the bulkheads to provide a smooth transition along the length of the hull.
View attachment 435210

And here's the end result viewed from the side and top:
View attachment 435215

I see you have a nice straight keel. Mine was a shaped and delaminated when I tried to straighten it.

 

[Ted Robinson]

A bit of a lag in updates, but I've been busy... with the Swift....

Bulwarks installed:
View attachment 440019

And now to get rolling on the outer planks for the bulwarks, and finally... that second planking layer in walnut...
View attachment 440020

Second planking layer in walnut installed...
View attachment 440021

And since there was lots of ramen wood stock left over (the same as was used for the deck planking), I decided to line the inner wall of the bulwarks with it. I'd originally thought about doing this in walnut, but later decided the darker wood wouldn't be a good choice in that location.
View attachment 440030

We both have exactly the same toolsm. Sander, xacto knife but I bought a battery drill from harbor freight.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Today was sanding day. Tapering all the masts, bowsprit, boom and gaffs. Last year, when I built the "Red Dragon", I used a battery powered drill, thick gloves, and sandpaper to taper the masts down to size. I was going to do the same thing, but with crappy weather and not trusting myself not to damage the dining room table, I decided to take a different path. It actually worked out pretty well. Holding one end of the wood dowel, I used my small hand sander with 80 grit paper and went to town... Long strokes, bearing down towards the tip, while at the same time rotating the dowel with my left hand. Then once I got the taper diameter down to where I needed it, I swapped out the 80 grit for some 240 and sanded them perfectly smooth. Certainly no where near as fast a process as using the drill, but it worked surprisingly well. Another technique to use in the future...

With the foremast, I just sanded horizontally to get an even diameter at the top inch of the mast, and then used an x-acto knife to gradually whittle down the beveled ledge below it. Again, more careful sanding to round off that chiselled part, but overall, success and no blood loss in the process. I consider that a win-win kind of evening.
View attachment 448914

Nice work

 

[Ted Robinson]

So while trying to drill holes in the top of one of the included cast white metal anchors, I managed to break the end off. Grrrrr... This is what the stock anchors look like now, missing their tops... so no way to rig a line through them without fudging some sort of fitting epoxied to them.
View attachment 450809

In the bigger picture of things, maybe a blessing in disguise. I'd purchased some flat brown paint so I could make the stocks look like wood. But since now broken... after a bit of hunting around, I found replacements from Amati. Very close to same size as the ones provided with the kit, but the Amati ones came with an actual wood stock, plus pre-formed square brass rings to put around the stock... and the ring was pre-drilled to accept a brass ring to attach a rope to. So perhaps fortuitous happenstance. Here's what the Amati anchors look like completed and installed in the bow of the Swift:
View attachment 450810

Those are nice anchors. I like the you seized the lines attached to the decks

 

[Ted Robinson]

Now that the Swift is complete, she's been sold to a Canadian owner and now flies a Canadian flag. The costs to ship her up here were horrendous, but I'm happy with my acquisition. Now I just have to find a decent body of water to sail her in, and that's not something I'm going to find anywhere close to Calgary. lol

Without further adieu, here's the final result of this build. Later this weekend, I'll be posting more photos in the completed model section of the forum. Now I'll take the summer off to pursue other activities, and then come winter, it will be time to get back on the Victory build...

View attachment 450813

Very impressive. Please send me a link to your victory log.

 

[seadeep]

I see you have a nice straight keel. Mine was a shaped and delaminated when I tried to straighten it.

Mine had a warp to it as well. I used dry heat and a planking iron to gradually work it back into a nearly straight condition. Then I used the decking underlay sheet to keep it that way till I got some first layer planking on to keep things aligned. Between nailing the decking underlay sheet down on it, and getting the first few hull planks glued down it kept things from warping back again. I also tend to use a lot of Weldbond along everything that's out of sight during the early stages.

 

[seadeep]

Those are nice anchors. I like the you seized the lines attached to the decks

Thank you. Yes, I really lucked out in a way. If I'd never broken the anchors that came with the kit, I'd never have been pushed into a situation where I had to look for replacements. The ones I bought were about the only ones I could find that looked appropriate and were the same size... and I was really happy with how nice they were when they actually arrived. Far better than what the ad photo looked like on the shop I bought them from. Now that I've gone down the rabbit hole of 3D scanning and printing, if it were to happen again, I'd probably scan the broken ones and break up the scan model into sections so I could print them as "metal" and "wood" using appropriate filaments.

 

[seadeep]

Very impressive. Please send me a link to your victory log.

Alas, there will be no build log of the Victory. I've done bugger all on it this year (I think I mentioned the 3D scanning and printing bit... I've been distracted). I'm like a cat that spots a squirrel outside the window.... complete loss of focus on task at hand. lol

So it will sit in dry-dock awaiting work to commence late this fall once the white stuff starts falling again. But even then, I don't think there will be a build log as I've gotten a good portion of the work done on it without any image records of how I got there.

 

[Ted Robinson]

Alas, there will be no build log of the Victory. I've done bugger all on it this year (I think I mentioned the 3D scanning and printing bit... I've been distracted). I'm like a cat that spots a squirrel outside the window.... complete loss of focus on task at hand. lol

So it will sit in dry-dock awaiting work to commence late this fall once the white stuff starts falling again. But even then, I don't think there will be a build log as I've gotten a good portion of the work done on it without any image records of how I got there.

My first build log started in the middle. Judging by your last log you have the techniques and abilities to produce a fine model so many of the less experienced builders have a lot to gain by following you. My logs are generally where I discuss any problems or lack of knowing how to make something; followed up on by site members helping me.
Either way, I enjoyed you Swift.
Happy modeling

 

[Kimpossible]

Filler and sanding completed on the first layer of planking. Related aside... I recently acquired this little "belt and loop" (or Velcro) thumb sanding tool from Amazon. It's only about 3.5" (9cm) long, by about an inch (25mm) wide. It came with a pretty large supply of sanding paper strips in a variety of grades. I started with an 80 grit for the first pass, and then dropped down to a 180 grit for the second pass. The sander and supplies was under $17 CAD, and I kick myself for not trying these sooner. I've used foam sanding blocks (dense blocks of foam pre-coated with sanding material), as well as conventional sheets of sanding paper prior to this... but this little thumb sander worked far better than I had expected. The strips of sandpaper stayed on extremely well, with absolutely no shifting during use. I still use the foam sanding blocks on inside curves (like at the stern where the vertical side sweeps into the curved hull near the transom).

For those that are interested, I'm attaching a link to the Amazon.ca site for the thumb sander I bought. You'll find them listed by dozens of suppliers, and you should be able to easily find one in your country's Amazon site. Thumb (micro) Sander

So yeah, now it's time to "let's get it on baby"... the second layer of walnut hull planking that is....
View attachment 435339

What filler did you use for this ?

 

[seadeep]

What filler did you use for this ?

Just a standard "off the shelf" wood filler from Home Depot. I've used both Elmer's and LePage, as both are available in small plastic tubes as well as small plastic tubs. If I'm doing nail hole touch up fills, I use the tubes as they're more convenient. If I'm doing hull leveling, I use the small tubs simply because more filler is required, and I use a small plastic putty spatula to apply it. The tubs are about 8oz in size, though they do make larger tubs as well. I know they also make pre-stained filler in a few shades, which could be used to fix a mistake on an outer layer.... but for that I prefer to just use some of the sawdust from that same wood mixed with a little wood glue to do the repair. That way you get an exact match for the wood colour. The key thing to remember with using wood filler, it's like doing drywall compound. Use as little as you think will do the job, as excess just means more sanding and clean up. When I've done drywall projects at home, I tend to sand off about 90% of what I put on. lol Hull sanding is no different. And of course after you've finished using the wood filler, and let it dry... after sanding it, you can always add more in any places that weren't adequately filled the first time around.

I hope this helps...

 

[Ted Robinson]

Just a standard "off the shelf" wood filler from Home Depot. I've used both Elmer's and LePage, as both are available in small plastic tubes as well as small plastic tubs. If I'm doing nail hole touch up fills, I use the tubes as they're more convenient. If I'm doing hull leveling, I use the small tubs simply because more filler is required, and I use a small plastic putty spatula to apply it. The tubs are about 8oz in size, though they do make larger tubs as well. I know they also make pre-stained filler in a few shades, which could be used to fix a mistake on an outer layer.... but for that I prefer to just use some of the sawdust from that same wood mixed with a little wood glue to do the repair. That way you get an exact match for the wood colour. The key thing to remember with using wood filler, it's like doing drywall compound. Use as little as you think will do the job, as excess just means more sanding and clean up. When I've done drywall projects at home, I tend to sand off about 90% of what I put on. lol Hull sanding is no different. And of course after you've finished using the wood filler, and let it dry... after sanding it, you can always add more in any places that weren't adequately filled the first time around.

I hope this helps...

That just about covers it. Thank you