Good evening Peter. A one of a kind build. Wow. The complexity of this project at times makes me hold my breath for you, although you seem to have it completely under control. Amazing. Cheers Grant
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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Well Jim ……….you made me blush and a bit speechless
……. But thanks very much for your compliments!Regards, Peter
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You also thanks for this very nice words, Grant. Luckily I can still breathe, it’s sometimes more ……. Ggggrrr ……. come on, stay in place ……
Regard, Peter
Just an example of how I work and the preparations I make.
I will place frame 41 first. Because the water tank must be constructed between frame 41 and the watertight bulkhead 39:
(Source: the old drawings of the aforementioned shipyard)
On the left is a drawing of the longitudinal section. I have shown the water tank with the blue frame.
On the right the corresponding part from the top view drawing.
However, it does not show how wide the water tank is.
For clarity, a double arrow has also been added at the conversion for access to the forecastle.
The top of the water tank is partly the floor of the forecastle where the galley with the stove is located in the middle.
There will be a 'lantern' in the deck above the stove, a hood with glass that can be opened.
There will be a drying area on either side of the galley with a hatch on the deck.
The longitudinal angle profiles run across the bottom of the water tank from bulkhead 51 to 39. From the fore side of the water tank, standing strips complete the angle profiles to the keelson. Just like from bulkhead 39 backwards.
Given the text of one of the two old specifications, I estimate that the water tank was made over the full width of the tweendeck, up to the skin plates.
And specifically states:
"On the sides, drain the necessary air pipes to the deck, ending under the railing with a folded end."
Before placing frame 41 I built in some extra 'safeguards':
To support the already extended stringer plates, I had already printed the shape of frame 28 on thick paper using the Fushion 360 drawing of that frame.
Frame 41 is also printed out with guide lines for the bottom and top of the water tank.
From the forepeak I laid 2 strips of 3.2 x 0.25 mm to control the sheer over the deck beams. This strip will later be glued over the deck beams and form the sides of the shutters.
Based on the mold I can now build and install the frame and construct the water tank.
All in all, I spent a while studying drawings and reading the old specifications. To get an idea of all the items I have to take into account.
Regards, Peter
I will place frame 41 first. Because the water tank must be constructed between frame 41 and the watertight bulkhead 39:
(Source: the old drawings of the aforementioned shipyard)
On the left is a drawing of the longitudinal section. I have shown the water tank with the blue frame.
On the right the corresponding part from the top view drawing.
However, it does not show how wide the water tank is.
For clarity, a double arrow has also been added at the conversion for access to the forecastle.
The top of the water tank is partly the floor of the forecastle where the galley with the stove is located in the middle.
There will be a 'lantern' in the deck above the stove, a hood with glass that can be opened.
There will be a drying area on either side of the galley with a hatch on the deck.
The longitudinal angle profiles run across the bottom of the water tank from bulkhead 51 to 39. From the fore side of the water tank, standing strips complete the angle profiles to the keelson. Just like from bulkhead 39 backwards.
Given the text of one of the two old specifications, I estimate that the water tank was made over the full width of the tweendeck, up to the skin plates.
And specifically states:
"On the sides, drain the necessary air pipes to the deck, ending under the railing with a folded end."
Before placing frame 41 I built in some extra 'safeguards':
To support the already extended stringer plates, I had already printed the shape of frame 28 on thick paper using the Fushion 360 drawing of that frame.
Frame 41 is also printed out with guide lines for the bottom and top of the water tank.
From the forepeak I laid 2 strips of 3.2 x 0.25 mm to control the sheer over the deck beams. This strip will later be glued over the deck beams and form the sides of the shutters.
Based on the mold I can now build and install the frame and construct the water tank.
All in all, I spent a while studying drawings and reading the old specifications. To get an idea of all the items I have to take into account.
Regards, Peter
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Thanks, Stephan. Indeed: step by step ........ and keep thinking.........See the next post.......
Regards, Peter
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And again an "oh yes", you have to do that first........
Make the supports on bulkhead 39 to allow both halves to stand freely on the yard beam:
Brass bushings with an internal diameter of 1 mm are glued to the corners of both half-bulkheads. Mark a hole on the yard beam with a piece of 1 mm wire through the bushes.
Removed all side wedges that secured the keel plate to the yard beam shims.
Removed the starboard half of the yard beam:
At the arrow the previously made pin and bushing on bulkhead 51.
Drilled out the hole for the 2nd pin and installed the pin:
Also cleaned all shims on the yard beam and removed all old adhesive residue.
The starboard half on both pins:
And now stands loose on the shims of the yard beam.
Also do the port side, then replace the wedges to secure the alignment of the keel and then I can continue.
Regards, Peter
Make the supports on bulkhead 39 to allow both halves to stand freely on the yard beam:
Brass bushings with an internal diameter of 1 mm are glued to the corners of both half-bulkheads. Mark a hole on the yard beam with a piece of 1 mm wire through the bushes.
Removed all side wedges that secured the keel plate to the yard beam shims.
Removed the starboard half of the yard beam:
At the arrow the previously made pin and bushing on bulkhead 51.
Drilled out the hole for the 2nd pin and installed the pin:
Also cleaned all shims on the yard beam and removed all old adhesive residue.
The starboard half on both pins:
And now stands loose on the shims of the yard beam.
Also do the port side, then replace the wedges to secure the alignment of the keel and then I can continue.
Regards, Peter
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Vakwerk Peter,
Hier niet eerder vertoond
groet
Henk
Hier niet eerder vertoond
groet
Henk
Damn...she is fragile..., but gorgeous.
It's more 'composed flexibility'. The glued connections are a kind of melted connections and are very strong. Not a single connection has come loose (unintentionally) so far.
Good evening Peter. The way you presented this post you make seem as simple as riding a bicycle (especially for you Dutch guys)
.Cheers Grant
Thanks, Grant. I do love cycling on my bikes. Well noticed similarity: 2 pins / 2 (pitch) axels …….Good evening Peter. The way you presented this post you make seem as simple as riding a bicycle (especially for you Dutch guys)
Cheers Grant
Regards, Peter
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very interesting - looks so fragile - and I am pretty sure it is fragile
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I have to agree with my colleagues - the seeming fragility is also what strikes me. I can only imagine that makes the planning even more crucial as you have to incorporate checks and balances all the time. I agree with @Jimsky Jim that this must be one of the most unique builds witnessed on this forum; certainly as far as the medium goes and that is not even taking into account all the special details you are incorporating.
Thanks, Uwe. But Fragile ............. I'll have to show it to you somewhere in real life what the construction can have.
Regards, Peter
You also thanks for this nice comment, Heinrich.
What can I say to that......... I personally don't think it is that unique, just scratch from drawings with a keel, keelson, frames, deck beams, etc. It is only entirely made of poly, but that is also becoming more done. ....... (I'm quite good at putting things into perspective.......
)Regards, Peter
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Aaah - but remember - perspective is a matter of perception!(I'm quite good at putting things into perspective.......
Started working on the design of the water tank.
First made an overlap drawing in Photoshop from the 3 old drawings:
-At the bottom a strip of the old line drawing with the position of the frames.
-Above that the old cross-sectional drawing of the construction.
-In the middle the 'greyed' drawing of the layout of the forecastle as drawn for the Amsterdam restoration.
The positioning of the frames between 39 and 51 is slightly different on the old construction drawing than on the old line drawing. This may still be visible in the blue rectangular frame.
I'm keeping the one in the line drawing, because that's where I made the frames.
The new part of the combination drawing is glued on the construction floor.
First I installed 3 beams between the watertight bulkheads 39 and 51.
I made the photo tilted, with the starboard part on the construction floor. So the drawing is actually flat.
A is the keelson.
B is the center floor beam.
C is the center deck beam. The deck beams run over this beam.
D is the paper mold of the water tank.
Now actually standing. The starboard construction template is now level on the construction floor.
The frame 41 has been placed temporarily.
The swing shot can be seen in the tank. The opening in the corners and center allows water to flow through the entire tanks.
Now that this seems to be working, with a great deal of AL-FI, I can start making both parts of Evergreen's water tank.
Regards, Peter
First made an overlap drawing in Photoshop from the 3 old drawings:
-At the bottom a strip of the old line drawing with the position of the frames.
-Above that the old cross-sectional drawing of the construction.
-In the middle the 'greyed' drawing of the layout of the forecastle as drawn for the Amsterdam restoration.
The positioning of the frames between 39 and 51 is slightly different on the old construction drawing than on the old line drawing. This may still be visible in the blue rectangular frame.
I'm keeping the one in the line drawing, because that's where I made the frames.
The new part of the combination drawing is glued on the construction floor.
First I installed 3 beams between the watertight bulkheads 39 and 51.
I made the photo tilted, with the starboard part on the construction floor. So the drawing is actually flat.
A is the keelson.
B is the center floor beam.
C is the center deck beam. The deck beams run over this beam.
D is the paper mold of the water tank.
Now actually standing. The starboard construction template is now level on the construction floor.
The frame 41 has been placed temporarily.
The swing shot can be seen in the tank. The opening in the corners and center allows water to flow through the entire tanks.
Now that this seems to be working, with a great deal of AL-FI, I can start making both parts of Evergreen's water tank.
Regards, Peter
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Good afternoon Peter….my SO
. As always your detail is mind blowing. Awesome. It is starting to look like a skeleton of a ship-exciting. Cheers Grant
Good morning Peter. I always wait in anticipation for your posts, and then my mind goes..
. As always your detail is mind blowing. Awesome. It is starting to look like a skeleton of a ship-exciting. Cheers Grant