There is a third one with colors in between. But she is a bit shy …….
That’s for sure, Uwe. She is now gonna show here lines.Ach so ja: now we can see that you build a ship model
You know, that I am a big fan of your work......
Regards, Peter
BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame
- Thread starter Peter Voogt
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Regards, Peter
Keep this (and others) in mind
HMS Alert destroyed
I had finished the paper model of HMS Alert, proud of the build...enter the wife! She fell in love with an all black kitty she named "Pepper". Pepper liked to chew on things. We were going to New Hampshire for a weekend, leaving my son home to watch the cat. He locked the cat in my computer...
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I think that if you use styrene sheet that thin -especially the very malleable Evergreen brand - you can shape it cold for most of the hull and it will retain the shape. Cut the plates to size, lay them on top of a pad of newspaper to provide a semi-soft support and rub them with the bowl of a spoon, pressing firmly using a big spoon - not a little one - to create the concave curves you need.
Thanks for the advice, Alan. The pad of newspapers seems to be a good support for the little pressure.
From Ab Hoving I got the advice to use a piece of woodboard. And my wife has a lot of scrap-book materials.
Enough ideas to make some tests.
Regards, Peter
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It's time to check if everything is still going well. That's why I've been messing around in Photoshop.
A photo of the current state placed on a print that I made at the time while drawing in Fushion 360:
It took quite a few shots before I had the model almost in the right position. Then the right lens and distance to get the perspective the same as the print at the time. This is the result of the 10th shot:
As 2 layers on top of each other with a transparency. The dotted lines do match very well. I can't get it completely exact. Then I have to try some other lenses and distances.
There are some differences in the curve at the bottom of the bow. But that's right. Because I couldn't get that right while drawing.
I can continue building with a clear conscience .........
Regards, Peter
A photo of the current state placed on a print that I made at the time while drawing in Fushion 360:
It took quite a few shots before I had the model almost in the right position. Then the right lens and distance to get the perspective the same as the print at the time. This is the result of the 10th shot:
As 2 layers on top of each other with a transparency. The dotted lines do match very well. I can't get it completely exact. Then I have to try some other lenses and distances.
There are some differences in the curve at the bottom of the bow. But that's right. Because I couldn't get that right while drawing.
I can continue building with a clear conscience .........
Regards, Peter
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The side of the hull between watertight bulkheads 14 and 39 will be a lot flatter at the height of the main frame 27. Small irregularities may be extra visible there. To prevent that, I started working with the bilge stringer. Once that is in place, I can align the frames that are still to be placed on it.
I had already shown these drawings:
On the left, where the barrels will be placed with the bilge stringer between the 5th and 6th barrel. On the right, the old technical drawing where it is in a slightly different place.
In order to be able to determine the course properly, I also placed frame 21. I now have 5 points that I can align on:
I placed a few barrels on frame 33 so that I can see that the calculated location of the bilge stringer runs between the 5th and 6th barrel.
This is constructed from 2 L-profiles glued together.
The bilge stringer runs diagonally upwards towards the rear in an arc. This is because the frames become smaller again after main frame 27 and also flatten out:
Here are the barrels on frame 21.
Seen from the side, it has a slightly strange course, but diagonally from above it runs almost parallel to the side of the deck:
With all those curved lines, the play of lines is always different from every angle:
And the shape of the hull is increasingly expressed by every new step.
Regards, Peter
I had already shown these drawings:
On the left, where the barrels will be placed with the bilge stringer between the 5th and 6th barrel. On the right, the old technical drawing where it is in a slightly different place.
In order to be able to determine the course properly, I also placed frame 21. I now have 5 points that I can align on:
I placed a few barrels on frame 33 so that I can see that the calculated location of the bilge stringer runs between the 5th and 6th barrel.
This is constructed from 2 L-profiles glued together.
The bilge stringer runs diagonally upwards towards the rear in an arc. This is because the frames become smaller again after main frame 27 and also flatten out:
Here are the barrels on frame 21.
Seen from the side, it has a slightly strange course, but diagonally from above it runs almost parallel to the side of the deck:
With all those curved lines, the play of lines is always different from every angle:
And the shape of the hull is increasingly expressed by every new step.
Regards, Peter
It took some time to be able to show something interesting again. More or less a production line set up for the 7 frames with deck beams that are needed for the barrel hold:
As mentioned before, these frames have reverse frame up to the bilge.
The frames are glued at the top with the outer deck stringer. At the bottom they are between the keel and the keelson.
They are not yet attached to the bilge stringer because I will do the final alignment when I have also placed the intermediate frames.
The hull shape is becoming more and more apparent:
Ignore the sagging port deck stringer plate. A support has fallen away.
Due to the structure of all the beams, only 2 temporary side supports are needed:
With a view of the course of all the frames.
The open starboard part:
The deck beams and the longitudinal profile in the middle have enough support here from all the double U-profile styles. Where in the dressed port side part the beams come in the lengthwise direction and in the transverse direction the bulkheads between the 9 separate holds.
Now back to the production line for the 7 intermediate frames.
Regards, Peter
As mentioned before, these frames have reverse frame up to the bilge.
The frames are glued at the top with the outer deck stringer. At the bottom they are between the keel and the keelson.
They are not yet attached to the bilge stringer because I will do the final alignment when I have also placed the intermediate frames.
The hull shape is becoming more and more apparent:
Ignore the sagging port deck stringer plate. A support has fallen away.
Due to the structure of all the beams, only 2 temporary side supports are needed:
With a view of the course of all the frames.
The open starboard part:
The deck beams and the longitudinal profile in the middle have enough support here from all the double U-profile styles. Where in the dressed port side part the beams come in the lengthwise direction and in the transverse direction the bulkheads between the 9 separate holds.
Now back to the production line for the 7 intermediate frames.
Regards, Peter
She's looking great. I look forward to the updates.
Bill
Bill
Just fantastic work, Peter! A unique and special model!
Thanks, Bill. It will take ‘some time’ to produce the next frames and show them.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Paul. It is also surprising to me what eventually comes about based on a few old flat drawings. It is certainly unique in terms of the use of material. In the collection of the Vlaardingen museum there should be an openwork model of the Balder, similar to my construction. However, made of brass and 2.28 meters long. Only we cannot find out where that model is.....
. The search continues.
Regards, Peter
It looks very fragile. Impressive modeling.
Thanks, Herman. Indeed, it looks fragile. But in the meantime I have been stuck behind something a few times and miraculously everything stays in shape. It has flexibility to absorb accidents and keep the shape.
Regards, Peter
Last evening I placed the last frame of the barrel hold. But then it was too late for the photos:
Together with the frames I had already placed at the kossing, there are 20. With the reversing frames alternately up to the bilge and up to the knee at the deck.
In itself a bit of a monotonous job, frame after frame after frame ..... But still fascinating, each frame has its own shape and size that together form the course of the hull:
The open space up to bulkhead 14 is for the net hold. That has its own hatch and a different placement of the deck beams. The rivets will still be placed on the knees under the deck and other connections. But I will do that in one go when I have also closed the net hold.
The cross-sectional plane on the inside is still flat thanks to my construction method:
Here the construction template is tilted on the construction plate.
And put upright:
The stringer plates were also placed over the deck beams, on which the sidebeams (schaarstokken) for the hatches will come later:
The sheer also remains neatly present. Also on this side a lot of riveting to do.
Regards, Peter
Together with the frames I had already placed at the kossing, there are 20. With the reversing frames alternately up to the bilge and up to the knee at the deck.
In itself a bit of a monotonous job, frame after frame after frame ..... But still fascinating, each frame has its own shape and size that together form the course of the hull:
The open space up to bulkhead 14 is for the net hold. That has its own hatch and a different placement of the deck beams. The rivets will still be placed on the knees under the deck and other connections. But I will do that in one go when I have also closed the net hold.
The cross-sectional plane on the inside is still flat thanks to my construction method:
Here the construction template is tilted on the construction plate.
And put upright:
The stringer plates were also placed over the deck beams, on which the sidebeams (schaarstokken) for the hatches will come later:
The sheer also remains neatly present. Also on this side a lot of riveting to do.
Regards, Peter
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Luckily you don't have to use the original process and equipment to install the rivets, otherwise people may start complaining.
And as always a pleasure to watch your Balder taking shape.
I love the way the battleship gray paint and its rivets slowly move aft transforming the evergreen into an amazing realistic looking ship.
Great work Peter, i love the way that the Balder grows into a complete ship, it is a beautiful way of building
I think my neighbors would have been at the door long ago asking me to do the work elsewhere.
For sure the riveting gives a lot of noise.Thanks, Johan. A bit like the Bluenose building op frame by frame ....
Regards, Peter
I agree with you , Daniel. What a bit of paint can change the overall appearance. Then the white frames with black rivets almost hurts your eyes.
Regards, Peter
Thanks, Peter. I think this way of building is pretty much in line with how it was when the original Balder was built. Building the structure step by step.
Regards, Peter