BALDER, Vlaardingen Herring Lugger from 1912, scratch build scale 1:50 Plate-On-Frame

What I was really curious about from the start of this build: will the frames give the skin plates a nicely flow over the frames? Was my drawing in Fushion correct and have I made the frames correct?
That is why I have already started making some test molds.

Some starting points based on the old drawings:
0348 Huid.jpg
Oval left drawing: the top of the top plate protrudes a bit above the standing flange of the outer corner profile of the deck. The bulwark plate falls within the top edge of that plate and comes to rest on the standing flange.
Oval right drawing: the 2nd plate is placed over the bottom of the 1st plate and riveted. The same with the 3rd, which falls over the bottom of the 2nd plate. They worked with the plating from top till bottom.

In the book of the Vlaardingen restoration there is this drawing with the 'projected' skin plan:
0349 Huid.jpg
(Source: Restoration book SZB, page 21: "Skin plan VL.92".)

The proportions are clearly not correct. Therefore, in Photoshop, the drawing was shrunk in height and stretched in length:
0350 Huid.jpg
The height was checked by making the dimensions in the blue accentuated part over the watertight bulkhead 39 in the correct size as the 39 of my model.

The first templates were made. The shape from the skin plan was not fully correct, so I had to fit, measure, cut and paste it myself:
0351 Huid.jpg
The blue arrows point to the dimensions mold on my 39 from the projected drawing of the skin plan.

Worked down strip by strip:
0352 Huid.jpg
With this as a result:
0353 Huid.jpg
0354 Huid.jpg
0355 Huid.jpg
That is starting to look quite a bit like a hull shape. It is a starting point for making the final shapes. And I have to 'force' all the plates into the vertical curve. Which didn't work very well with these paper versions.
Then I have to make the edges of the individual templates a bit smoother and continue to the main frame.
But it is a start ……. And the shape of the frames is correct ….. :)
Regards, Peter
 
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Daniel20 said:
Do you foresee having to apply heat to soften the sheets for placement in the tighter curves?
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The sheets are very thin. I have the .005”/0,13 mm or .010”/0,25 mm Evergreen sheets. My option is to rub them to provide some heat on a bit of a springy surface. Perhaps with some rolling with a steel ball. Or a hair dryer from a distance. But that will also have to be determined through trial and error.
Regards, Peter
 
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RDN1954 said:
Do you think it’s a clever design with predominately single curved skins only or did you already encounter double curved skins?
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Good morning Johan. In the upper part most of the plates are curved horizontally. Around the bilge they become also the vertical curve. And in the lower area they also twist:
IMG_4227.jpeg
The friend of mine who worked at the old yard mentioned earlier told me that it was a lot of hammering to get the steel plates into the desired shape. The craftsmanship was to rivet them to the frames without tension.
Regards, Peter
 
Although I would like to start planking the deck and the plates on the hull at the front, it is wiser to do that when I can align them over a greater length.

Started working on the holds between watertight bulkheads 14 and 39:
0356 Ruim.jpg
The odd frames have a deck beam and a turning frame up to the bilge. Wooden bulkheads are also installed in those frames, so in the transverse direction. The distance between those bulkheads is exactly the width of a barrel. This creates 9 separate spaces to stack the barrels. Each space has its own hatch on the deck.

First the 3rd watertight bulkhead 14 and the main frame 27 are made. First a quick overview before the details:
0357 Overzicht.jpg
In the template, so that I can align everything using the drawings on the construction board.

And the template free-standing:
0358 Overzicht.jpg
Both also provided with a temporary side support.

The watertight bulkhead 14:
0359 14.jpg
On the left the front with vertical profiles for reinforcement and on the right the back with horizontal profiles. The lower one with the small corner is for the water tank. The keelson is also attached.
In the inner upper corner the profile is visible that runs in the middle of the hold over the entire length of the hold.
With a number of braces the half frame is positioned so that I can use it for further alignment.

The main frame 27:
0360 27.jpg
A U-profile has been attached to the horizontal flange of the turning frame (A). The planks of the bulkhead will be placed in this. A U-profile has also been attached to the underside of the deck beam for this purpose (B).
Under all the deck beams runs on the underside in the middle the profile that is attached over the entire length of the hold between 14 and 39 (C).
Between that profile and the corner profile on the side of the keelson, there is now a fixed upright consisting of 2 U-profiles (D) placed against each other. In the length direction of the ship, there are beams that ensure that the holds for the barrels are divided into 2 compartments, a starboard and a port side. The beams also keep the barrels in place here.

I have also started to put the model away under an old display case:
0361 Vitrine.jpg
On the one hand to keep it free of dust.
But also to protect it from this new black bandit:
0362 Bandiet.jpg
He really wants to be everywhere and see everything. A loose end that can move ......... ;)
Regards, Peter
 
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Cats and model ships, there are also a lot of stories about that subject here. Not always with a happy ending. Good that you protect it.
Except that beautiful black cat, you can't tell, if the ship you're building is in real scale or just small, the tools around the ship tell the real story.
 
Steef66 said:
Cats and model ships, there are also a lot of stories about that subject here. Not always with a happy ending. Good that you protect it.
Except that beautiful black cat, you can't tell, if the ship you're building is in real scale or just small, the tools around the ship tell the real story.
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Thanks, Stephan. At least I have the real scale 1:1 always in mind ……. :)
Regards, Peter
 
Maarten said:
Hi Peter,

Can you mirror the vertical L profile to both ships sides and split the frame between them. Offcourse this is a little concession to the original but you will avoid the wobbly frames. If you split the hull you won t notice it that much and if you combine two halves you don t see it.
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I had your option in mind for a long time, Maarten. And used it on de bulkhead 14 ....... It was useful!.
Regards, Peter
 
Black and White
both beauiful animals - but the black one is the dangerous one Exclamation-Mark

Ach so ja: now we can see that you build a ship model ;)
You know, that I am a big fan of your work......
 
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