Belem from Artesania Latina - by Fish & Chip

Hi, I succeed to find time for a little work on my ship. My training in my new job is demanding...

There is work on the second planking. Beech wood is a little bit stiffer than expect, but gived good result to consolidate the wall of the first deck. The beech strip have also sufficient flexibility to made 3axis curvature near the stern deck. Some little gap on the stern. But this will be paint and fill with varnish precoat. I choose to made a strait strip on the upper level of the stern.

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Hi,

I finished the hull planking. I will now start the design of the deck planking with the Real 1/75 Belem plan from ASSOCIATION DES AMIS DU MUSÉE NATIONAL DE LA MARINE. Hi will show later how I will proceed with reproduction of the plan and fine knife to put part of plan on the deck. This will help to make some fancy insert around the equipments present over floor.

Cjecking plan let me discover that my 3mm width cherry plank will be around the double the width of the real things. So, it was a good decision to change the original AL planking wood. Not perfect, but it will leave some better adaptation.

I am really happy of decided to double plank my ship.

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Well, once again sorry for my English (I tried Google translate for this post) and my lack of vocabulary on ships. Here are some pictures of the relative positions of the equipment based on the Original Plan vs A. Latina design. As we can understand, the mizzen mast hole should be moved almost 0.5 inch towards the stern. There is a gap near the hull as seen in the first photo. Overall, all things are fairly evenly distributed by AL.


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After thinking again about the mizzen mast hole, I can't move the position, it is too late because because I should verified that position before the planking of the hull. The bulkhead is not design to received the mast at the new position and it will be a real pain to glue and place at the right angle the mast.
 
Here is the last photo showing the approximate position of the equipment on the "sparedeck" (I'm lucky, since it is perhaps the only word in English in the French plan of the Belem LOL!). The position of the main mast is correctly located according to the plan.

The next step will be to identify the differences in sizes and shapes of the differents equipments presents on the AL and AAMNM plans. I think it is conceivable to believe in the obligation to build these equipments sooner in order to be able to draw an exact line of their position on the bridge. In fact, I don't want to go easy on putting only long, straight planks on the deck and not leaving contour slats around the equipments.

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I am doing it also in the same way - making a paper copy of the deckplan and check the different positions (and size) of the deck furniture and equipment.
A very good way to get a better feeling for the model and the next working steps :cool:
 
Thanks for replied Uwe,

And this is the reason why I look to a spanish galeon for the next built (after the Bounty), there is plans for them here : Fragata libros nauticos. MAy be I will make a try on AL San Juan Nepomuceno (require some bashing as some said is required, per exemple for the grating) or Occre Montanes.
 
Hi and good evening. I just received my order of differents type of block from Crafty Sailors for my Belem rigging.

Inventory based on 1/75 plans from AAMM for the Belem :
  1. 180 single sheave block - 2.0 mm (I know, how can I be able to insert thread in it ? Lol!)
  2. 100 single sheave block - 3.0 mm
  3. 10 single sheave block - 4 mm
  4. 60 double sheaves block - 3 mm
  5. 10 triple sheaves block - 3.5 mm
All these are in pear wood. I put 2 sizes of deadline block for comparison : 3.5 and 5 mm. I am astonished by the quality for these really small block.

Contemple these ones here

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Hi everyone,

Today I finished the red airbushing of the hull. Here is some pictures. I prepared also the hull to received the black paint by putting all the masking tape (Tamya plus Mastercraft) to mask the white (now on primer only) and red parts. The red is based primarily by Carmin paint plus some amount of bright orange from Vallejo.

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Thanks you Heinrich. Today I will remove the masks and revealed the white under them. Thereafter, I will start the remake of the deck planking and verify the color of the object done previously to adjust the redish brown colors parts. I think I will try to decrease the red hue to be more like tan color.
 
MAy I ask one question : is it more easy to do straight line with mask (masking tape like Tamiya) with airbrush than brush ? Because I used brush for the white paint and I tink that is there more smearing around jonction between mask and unmasked area. Or is it caused by the complexity of the "figure" to paint ?

Thanks
 
Fish&Chip said:
MAy I ask one question : is it more easy to do straight line with mask (masking tape like Tamiya) with airbrush than brush ? Because I used brush for the white paint and I tink that is there more smearing around jonction between mask and unmasked area. Or is it caused by the complexity of the "figure" to paint ?

Thanks
Click to expand...
If you are referring to paint bleed under the tape which can be an issue with the grain of the wood I airbrush a light coat of clear along the tape line then apply my color. No bleed
 
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