Belem from Artesania Latina - by Fish & Chip

Good evening,

Here is a picture of the "pont avant" which is foredeck if my english is ok. A lot of fancy again to positionning the elements to be add later on the deck. May some of these will be recover totally by those elements. The diffrenece in width of the plank cause some discrenpecy in the left-right symmetry.

Foredeck.jpg
 
Good evening,

Here is others pictures of the decks planking. Unplanking area will received part of structure's elements. Now I hesitate if I should make some light brown wash to regularize intersticial space between planks.

White walls on the sides of the main deck are not finished yet. More paint layers are required. Sparedeck is not glued and finished.

One tip I found : one of the edge of the plank is more rough than the other one (new cherry planks). It seem the result of the resaw process. It is really more easy to darken the less rought edge. Unfortunatly, I do not found this behavior at the beginning of the planking.

If I have to redone these planking, I will not redo too much fancy things when cutting and placing the plank with pattern.

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Hi, it was a long journey to modified my workshop to be more efficient. So, I restarted my Belem works.

First, I start to continued the deck work. Then I need to redo red mix for the hull. Not an easy task since I do not written de receipe. I repainted the deck deck furniture and equipment with red occre and a little of flat flesh given more vivid and pale color. I also make windows with the PE pieces bond on black cardboard instead of using the white one supplied by AL. It was a mess to put the portholes on the hull part. These were very little pieces. I am not sure I will simulate window in these since I am afraid that the paint will be disgracius comparing to the entire hull (or to much visual discrepency).

Good evening

Michel

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I am still in the painting and building the deck building structure. But I discover (too late) the complete mess concerning the skylight structures (cabine access, machine access, etc...). AL inverted the position of almost all of the skylight if compared to AAMM plan. As the dimension are also respectively not repected, I cannot made correction to be in concordance with AAMM plan. I put the real things showed in pictures to made comparison of the right side of the ship(stern side) in the illustrated AL plan. I cannot reproduced then the beautiful ornementation of the skylight of the last picture.IMG_20190706_084845.jpgImage1 strucuture.pngImage2.png
 
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Fish&Chip said:
I am still in the painting and building the deck building structure. But I discover (too late) the complete mess concerning the skylight structures (cabine access, machine access, etc...). AL inverted the position of almost all of the skylight if compared to AAMM plan. As the dimension are also respectively not repected, I cannot made correction to be in concordance with AAMM plan. I put the real things showed in pictures to made comparison of the right side of the ship(stern side) in the illustrated AL plan. I cannot reproduced then the beautiful ornementation of the skylight of the last picture.View attachment 315908View attachment 315909View attachment 315910
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Good morning Micheal. I went through your log and you have made wonderful progress. Looking back at your challenges with the thick AL planks and your work on the second layer, your hull came out beautifully. The challenges we have with kits always makes us build better in my opinion. To replicate the detail of the skylight on your scale is almost impossible (Some modelers would do it- those special people). I found that I do what I am able to the scale and it will look better on the ship rather than hunting the impossible. A good Belem your are building. Cheers Grant
 
Bonjour,
Belle présentation de la boîte et de la construction de ce beau trois mâts, j'ai eu la chance de le visiter il y a quelques années à Nice (France) ! bonne continuation.
 
Thanks Grant for your appreciation, I hope I can show more pictures of my progress soon. But there is so many small parts to prepare before.

Merci Bosco. Je trouve tout de même que c'est un très beau navire, vous êtes bien chanceux d'avoir pu le visiter.
 
Good evening,

There is a few pictures of my deck building. Window have to be done with the transparrent acrylic provided. Some glitch will have to be repair on the deck planking for adjusments too. Everything is dry fit. Much more to put on the deck before gluing. So much painting for a not too visible structure when instal LOL.

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Hi,

I done a lot of painting and small pieces preparation. I used some pen to help me in the coloration of very small detail. I also used Abteilung 502 Dense Acrylic Paint Gold ABT1149 for the gold touch. I will be ready to begin some installation on the deck now. I done more small pieces, but the ones here taked me a long time to process without having so much time for the hobby. My ancient boss recalled me to the job, so the retirement is on hold.

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Greetings, If I may make a suggestion on your PE step-ladders, I think, I am looking at the images, the steps could be twisted to form real steps. They are held with tiny pins on the sides, if you take the step with a tweezer in the middle and lightly twist it up, it will form the step.;) I recall working with such PE, it will change the appearance of a ladder. Disclaimer: The images might not show enough details. and this type of ladder might not be bent\twisted. :(
 
Jimsky said:
Greetings, If I may make a suggestion on your PE step-ladders, I think, I am looking at the images, the steps could be twisted to form real steps. They are held with tiny pins on the sides, if you take the step with a tweezer in the middle and lightly twist it up, it will form the step.;) I recall working with such PE, it will change the appearance of a ladder. Disclaimer: The images might not show enough details. and this type of ladder might not be bent\twisted. :(
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Hi Jim,

You are right, but I will do it when I was ready to install. I do not forgot it. Thanks for your comments. This is really difficult to obtained good painting and marking results, those pieces are really small for my fingers.
 
There is another set of pictures. I should open a paintshop, not a shipyard with this ship. I have some difficulties with the paint applied before gluing the pieces. Reactions occured and made it ugly. I use mainly CA. When I used CA over paint, the glue react instantly. So a small displacement around the target place, and the mess appeared then.

The plans from AL are not constant in the instruction. Per exxemple : a picture with four hole then later five holes around the same piece. We should take care about that and look forward in case of errors.

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The ugly one is here, I also lost a door wheel. I will wait to make a purchase From Cornwall model...when I will have other things to add to the bill. Alone, a set of 10 wheel cost 25 $ CAD including shipping !

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Fish&Chip said:
There is another set of pictures. I should open a paintshop, not a shipyard with this ship. I have some difficulties with the paint applied before gluing the pieces. Reactions occured and made it ugly. I use mainly CA. When I used CA over paint, the glue react instantly. So a small displacement around the target place, and the mess appeared then.

The plans from AL are not constant in the instruction. Per exxemple : a picture with four hole then later five holes around the same piece. We should take care about that and look forward in case of errors.

View attachment 324935View attachment 324936View attachment 324937

The ugly one is here, I also lost a door wheel. I will wait to make a purchase From Cornwall model...when I will have other things to add to the bill. Alone, a set of 10 wheel cost 25 $ CAD including shipping !

View attachment 324938View attachment 324939
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Good morning Michael. Kudos on your detail painting- very well done. I must remember not to build a Belem as detail painting and I are not friends. Cheers Grant
 
Thanks Grant, I hope so thaht it will more easy on my new HMS Fly. I should change some techniques, may be used wood glue and not put the varnish to soon in the process. Airbrusg gives me best result. Next projects after HMS Fly and AL Bounty should be with fregate before 18th, so may be I could stay with tint instead of paint.

Unfortunatly, I found the Amerigo Vespucci a very beautiful ship, but I will stay away. I would like to have the skill of dockattner (Paul) for the details.

​

https://occre.com/fr/products/amerigo-vespucci
 
Fish&Chip said:
MAy I ask one question : is it more easy to do straight line with mask (masking tape like Tamiya) with airbrush than brush ? Because I used brush for the white paint and I tink that is there more smearing around jonction between mask and unmasked area. Or is it caused by the complexity of the "figure" to paint ?

Thanks
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If you mask and then airbrush try applying dry coats and don't get to close to the ship surface. Avoid achieving a wet look because that will seep into the wood grain until the paint dries so Light dry spray, not to close and importantly make sure the paint is at the correct Viscosity for the air brush nozzle/air pressure. Don't know if this will help you but its what I would do and have done on my plastic kits. Your build is looking very good and impressive. (dry coats, not too close, repeat until desired coverage by paint colour) - Cheers.
 
ConsNZ said:
If you mask and then airbrush try applying dry coats and don't get to close to the ship surface. Avoid achieving a wet look because that will seep into the wood grain until the paint dries so Light dry spray, not to close and importantly make sure the paint is at the correct Viscosity for the air brush nozzle/air pressure. Don't know if this will help you but its what I would do and have done on my plastic kits. Your build is looking very good and impressive. (dry coats, not too close, repeat until desired coverage by paint colour) - Cheers.
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Thanks you for the help. I found that putting isopropylic alcool at 99% for dilution gives faster drying over 70%. When you speak about dry coat, is acrylic varnish is OK for this, or dry coat is another chemical formulation that is better?
 
Fish&Chip said:
Thanks you for the help. I found that putting isopropylic alcool at 99% for dilution gives faster drying over 70%. When you speak about dry coat, is acrylic varnish is OK for this, or dry coat is another chemical formulation that is better?
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WOW! Isopropyl Alcohol at 99% thinning ratio. That would give you very thin paint and very little colour coverage but yes the solvent evaporation would be fast. l use Tamiya and Gunze Mr Hobby acrylic model paints and normally thin with IPA approx 40-50% determined by colour as some colours can be thicker than others due to pigments used. Also the thinning ratio can be dependant on room temperature. ie warmth reduces the paint viscosity so will or may need less thinning with solvent. Colder rooms/climates will or may require additional solvent thinning. (if using aerosols put the can under your armpit to warm it up. The spray will be finer and spray much better) ---- Dry spray coating is when you spray a surface and the paint is virtually dry at the end of each gun pass. Therefore if you spray from the bow to the stern of your model in one move, by the time you get to the stern the paint is already touch dry at the bow section. Try masking up a piece of wood and have a practice. Use maybe half trigger to start with and you'll find it gets easier as you go along. Apologises if you end up using good paint but sometimes a little waste becomes not only productive but cheaper in the long run. ------ Hope I haven't confused you. Anything else please feel free to ask. Cheers.
 
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