Yep thanks
Bluenose by Mallacoota [COMPLETED BUILD]
- Thread starter mallacoota
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- Oct 28, 2018
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Hi John,
I hope the translation you made reflects what is meant from the translation…
I used Google translate to translate from Chinese to English
The special thing about the app is when you scan the text (with my IPad)
Result 1: there is a translation
Outcome 2: there is a translation with some other text
Outcome 3: there is a translation with some other text with some other words,
because the translation also shows more technical words I chose what I thought the was the best option, besides that I'm not that familiar with the English language yet, and run it (also this text) through a translator
I have only just started construction and will soon also translate the manual, if not clear, into Dutch again
I think it is very nice the additions you have made in the ship's hold and if you can post pictures of them I would be very happy find
I'm very interested in the details of the building, because this is my first timber construction so photographs of the hull planking are more than welcome
Thanks Henk. I did not do anything elaborate down below just some coils of rope , some net, and some open and closed fish boxes...I put a floor in half width consistent with the main deck. It just seemed logical to do it given the provision of hatches and companionway.
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I have just done my cutoffs and dry fitted the bulwarks. An earlier mistake is going to bite me here but not too hard. I did not set the support rails for the deck beams low enough and therefore have my foredeck just a little higher than it should be. This has happened foreward rather than aft reducing the desk step somewhat. This in turn means the different heights fore and aft of the scuppers are a little out. I can get away with it but it is a reminder of how early mistakes can have late consequences.
I have just finished painting the top timbers before I install the waterways... didnt fancy cutting in white paint around 110 cutouts. Should be able to install the waterways tomorrow then the bulwarks.
Have sized and shaped and stained both masts and just stood them up loosely here for the pic. They come already cut to their plan length exactly but need quite a bit of reducing. I cant believe the crazy amount of sail these boats put up. Must have been white knuckle exciting in 25 knots on the beam. The masts almost look "wrong" against the hull but they are correct. It would have been a sight 40 tons of Bluenose heeled over and racing. I wonder what sort of speed it could hit...maybe 12-14 knots..? anyone know..?
I have just finished painting the top timbers before I install the waterways... didnt fancy cutting in white paint around 110 cutouts. Should be able to install the waterways tomorrow then the bulwarks.
Have sized and shaped and stained both masts and just stood them up loosely here for the pic. They come already cut to their plan length exactly but need quite a bit of reducing. I cant believe the crazy amount of sail these boats put up. Must have been white knuckle exciting in 25 knots on the beam. The masts almost look "wrong" against the hull but they are correct. It would have been a sight 40 tons of Bluenose heeled over and racing. I wonder what sort of speed it could hit...maybe 12-14 knots..? anyone know..?
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I like your nautical display , barometers , clocks , lovely ,as an ex master mariner (ret) I relate to that with a couple of sextants , an old compass oil light and a original brass clock I won as 3rd Officer on board upon the transfer of the vessel to other buyers , happy building !
Thanks Robert...I was buying barometers on ebay for a while (because I couldnt afford clocks) ...the actual professional ones from ships come from India where I imagine the ships are broken up.....and a really good one could be bought for 200 aud.
Was looking at planbking and putting it off, thought ...I will just do the first one. Went straight through and did the lot. Very easy part of the build, did not need to do any taoering or drop planks, this plank on frame is the way to go. Happy if I never see another bulkhead. Every little error in the framing is waiting to visit you when you get to the planking. That would be my big learning so far with BN... get the frames as close to perfect as you can because everything stems from it. Will put a first coat of paint on hull tomorrow to show me the bad bits.
Painting today...going for the actual original colour scheme not because of any strong historical bias but I really like the colours. Red Ochre, Black, White and a white strip around the waterline.
Looks quite rich red here whereas in the flesh it is much more Ochre..must be a trick of the camera or light..? Gradually fill and fair and paint, maybe 2-3 coats then airbrush finishing thinned coats.
Looks quite rich red here whereas in the flesh it is much more Ochre..must be a trick of the camera or light..? Gradually fill and fair and paint, maybe 2-3 coats then airbrush finishing thinned coats.
Oh very nice Robert, very nice indeed. A classic colour scheme isnt it. Yours looks great...better lift my game. Just tell me myou used pinstripe tape...if you painted that straight white line I dont want to know.
This is what In used , cornwall models in the UK , the stripes come in all sorts of sizes and colours
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very good...they are the people who make Heritage paints which I really like.
Added a picture of BN 2 for comparison,
also this is the spray paint I used , you get it at Mitre10 , fabulous stuff , a couple of coats and it dries in no time
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Thats really good..thanks
It's just an amazing hull. I was looking at it and thinking how radical it really was. I have not measured the model but it looks as though the maximum beam above the waterline is forward of the maximum beam below... this might be wrong but that's what it looks like. The designer William Roue was an uneducated self taught naval architect..and this was only his 17th design. Absolutely amazing. You can only suspect that a trained naval architect would not have designed such a shape.
Caution...when fitting parts 147 which act as channels be careful to install them just sufficiently outboard so the chainplates can come through the 5 fine slots and run down the outside of the hull topsides. If you install the 147s too far inboard you wont be able to fit the chainplates correctly.
Actually the double thickness of the brass chainplates wont quite go through these tiny slots in the channels and I needed to very slightly ease the slots with a 0.5mm drill bit then the two thicknesses go through snugly. 4 done..only 16 to go. CA might work to hold the nails but putting a bend in the end of the nail and cutting it off compresses the strap around the deadeye better than CA would I think, and I wanted the deadeye to still be able to be rotated in the strap. Would quite like to have young eyes doing this.
All 20 chainplates straps and deadeyes complete... a bit cross eyed after doing it but they turned out quite well I think
Hi John, nice work.
All that little work takes a lot of time. But it's worth it because it will soon be in the eye.
Regards, Peter
All that little work takes a lot of time. But it's worth it because it will soon be in the eye.
Regards, Peter
Thanks Peter really appreciate your encouragement. I like the kit so much I am thinking seriously of building it a second time I would understand it so much better the second time. Need to persuade a son or daughter to buy me a second kit in exchange for the first build. A couple of shots of the installed chainplates and shroud deadeyes. Starting tom look like a Bluenose. A Bit fiddly getting the brasss chainplates through the two levels of bulwark rails but with the slots eased with a small drill it was OK in the end. Typical of what I mean is that the chainplates cross over a couple of the edges of scuppers and I am sure that is wrong.... more perfect alignment of everything at the start would have avoided that, buit I wont tell anyone if you dont.
