Those deck fixtures were fun to build! I think, though, that I had the most fun with the windlass and the winch. Your fixtures look great, Billy!
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Bluenose Schooner 1921 - Model Shipways 1:64 by TexBilly
- Thread starter TexBilly
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- bluenose model shipways
Those deck fixtures were fun to build! I think, though, that I had the most fun with the windlass and the winch. Your fixtures look great, Billy!
More fun ahead, then! Thanks, Gregg!
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The deck fixtures look great. Your build log is giving me the itch to change my plans, and build my Bluenose sooner than I had scheduled!
Go for it, Tom…we learn from each other!
Good morning. Yep you are owning this BN. Both the deck and hull planking came out fabulously. - kudos. Cheers Grant
Thank you, Sir!
I’m taking Tom’s good advice on finishing the deck first so that means it’s almost time - which has me thinking about colors.
After briefly thinking about a light oak stain for the deck, then clear poly, I’m now going to go poly only. I tested a patch on the hull and really like the clean natural look.
As for the waterways, I was leaning traditional gray but now I’m thinking about clear poly there as well, with white stanchions and inner waist planks. I think I’ve seen Bluenose II photos with this scheme. I know “it’s my model” but I also want to show some respect for the prototype. Thoughts?
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I applied two coats of poly (light 400 grit sanding in between) to the decks and waterways. If I decide to paint the waterways, the poly serves as a nice smooth sealer for paint so no harm!
That looks really handsome.
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I'm building the same kit and have completed the hull, deck and painting of the hull. You have been doing a great job! This kit is superb. I did a lot of research for the deck hardware from photos of the original that I found online. Plans details were a bit meager. Looking forward to seeing the progress of your adventure. Best wishes!
Looking at your Bluenose 1921 model, the Bluenose 1921 was planked
with a King Board on the main deck which I do not see on your model .
Otherwise you are doing just fine.
I am scratch modeler by choice ,tried a kit or two and had to make so many
modifications ,figured scratch building for me ,plus many dollars saved
in doing so.
Cheers Winova
Thanks for the plug!Welcome aboard from Connecticut. I am also doing the Bluenose, on and off when I visit my second home. I have found this blog and this you tube site to be very valuable for tips and insight.
Rob
Bluenose - Model Shipways MS2130 - 1/64 - By JeffT [COMPLETED BUILD]
I will be building the Model Shipways Bluenose (MS2130) in 1/64 (3/16"=1') scale. This is one of the ships I have wanted to build for some time. I got pretty lucky when purchasing the kit and got it at a super sale price when Mode Expo moved their warehouse last year. The Bluenose will be...shipsofscale.com
Bluenose Canadian Schooner – The Suburban Ship Modeler
The Bluenose is a 1920’s Canadian fishing and racing schooner. This build was based on the Model Shipways kit. This was chosen as my second build because it is bigger, a little more involved, and …suburbanshipmodeler.com
This may be the best resource you can use for the MS Bluenose: https://suburbanshipmodeler.com/category/bluenose-canadian-schooner/
Your build looks amazing!
Thanks for this information. You may need to educate me on the King Board. I vaguely recall a reference to the King Board somewhere (maybe one of the other SOS builds or the practicum I sometime use) and I thought it was referencing the two center and four notched planks along the centerline of the quarter deck. Is this right? If not, the Model Shipways kit may omit it? Thanks again.
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Your BN is looking awesome! Agree on the lack of details. Curious, did your bow and stern main rail pieces align with your hull's shape or did you have to modify or rebuild them? From a brief dry fit, my bow piece looks pretty good but the opposite piece at the stern will have to be modified (my hull is a bit broader). Congrats again on a fine build!
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I use it often!
Dancing around pesky work obligations, I've been painting fake stanchions and waterways. I'm using Model Shipways primer and paints. Now, I consider myself a decently capable painter but…why is white paint so hard??? 
Thick paint/brushstrokes, poor color transitions, lots of obvious touch-ups. I gradually developed a method that works for me - especially with white paint.
I sat down yesterday, took a deep breath and decided to start over. Hey, once you tear off the first piece it's easy!
Once that band-aid was ripped off, I decided to use this as an opportunity built around pre-painting.
After some clean up and a bit of filler, I masked off the waterway and gave it two coats of medium gray paint. I knew I was starting with no stanchions for support so I gradually tacked the 1/16" thick bottom waist plank (pre-painted on the inside) to the top hull plank/deck surface in 6-8 spots using super glue and finally wood-glued the end onto the filler block at the transom. I followed the same method for the 1/32" top waist plank, keeping it flush with the inside of the bottom waist plank as much as possible. I had some minor paint touch up along the joint.
I had also pre-painted a strip of 1/8" square stock for the replacement stanchions and left one side unfinished, which will attach to the sides. I'll scrape a small area of the waterway and side at each location and probably use only spots of super glue. My hope is only light touchup will be needed. The stanchions shown in the photo are dry fit and I hope to complete this section of the deck in the next couple days.
This approach is a whole lot cleaner and neater and I'm pretty pleased. But now there is a real danger I'll want to do the same for the rest of the deck.
In fact, I'm already 99% sure I'll do the same on the port side of the quarter deck, for continuity. We'll see about the fore deck!
Thick paint/brushstrokes, poor color transitions, lots of obvious touch-ups. I gradually developed a method that works for me - especially with white paint.
- Use quality brushes
- Pick the right brush type/size
- Dampen the bristles before loading paint
- Pause and clean the brush often
- Lots of thin coats.
I sat down yesterday, took a deep breath and decided to start over. Hey, once you tear off the first piece it's easy!
Once that band-aid was ripped off, I decided to use this as an opportunity built around pre-painting.After some clean up and a bit of filler, I masked off the waterway and gave it two coats of medium gray paint. I knew I was starting with no stanchions for support so I gradually tacked the 1/16" thick bottom waist plank (pre-painted on the inside) to the top hull plank/deck surface in 6-8 spots using super glue and finally wood-glued the end onto the filler block at the transom. I followed the same method for the 1/32" top waist plank, keeping it flush with the inside of the bottom waist plank as much as possible. I had some minor paint touch up along the joint.
I had also pre-painted a strip of 1/8" square stock for the replacement stanchions and left one side unfinished, which will attach to the sides. I'll scrape a small area of the waterway and side at each location and probably use only spots of super glue. My hope is only light touchup will be needed. The stanchions shown in the photo are dry fit and I hope to complete this section of the deck in the next couple days.
This approach is a whole lot cleaner and neater and I'm pretty pleased. But now there is a real danger I'll want to do the same for the rest of the deck.
In fact, I'm already 99% sure I'll do the same on the port side of the quarter deck, for continuity. We'll see about the fore deck!
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My respect for this major re-do, Bill. And the result looks very nice and clean. Sometimes you have to make big decisions, but it pays off very well.Dancing around pesky work obligations, I've been painting fake stanchions and waterways. I'm using Model Shipways primer and paints. Now, I consider myself a decently capable painter but…why is white paint so hard???
Thick paint/brushstrokes, poor color transitions, lots of obvious touch-ups. I gradually developed a method that works for me - especially with white paint.
Unfortunately, the starboard side of the quarter deck was where I had started and it suffered through the aforementioned education. I scraped off most or all of the paint twice, which also led to rough surfaces, misshapen stanchions, etc. Poor quality I just couldn't accept.
- Use quality brushes
- Pick the right brush type/size
- Dampen the bristles before loading paint
- Pause and clean the brush often
- Lots of thin coats.
I sat down yesterday, took a deep breath and decided to start over. Hey, once you tear off the first piece it's easy!
After some clean up and a bit of filler, I masked off the waterway and gave it two coats of medium gray paint. I knew I was starting with no stanchions for support so I gradually tacked the 1/16" thick bottom waist plank (pre-painted on the inside) to the top hull plank/deck surface in 6-8 spots using super glue and finally wood-glued the end onto the filler block at the transom. I followed the same method for the 1/32" top waist plank, keeping it flush with the inside of the bottom waist plank as much as possible. I has some minor paint touch up along the joint.
I had also pre-painted a strip of 1/8" square stock for the replacement stanchions and left one side unfinished, which will attach to the sides. I'll scrape a small area of the waterway and side at each location and probably use only spots of super glue. My hope is only light touchup will be needed. The stanchions shown in the photo are dry fit and I hope to complete this section of the deck in the next couple days.
This approach is a whole lot cleaner and neater and I'm pretty pleased. But now there is a real danger I'll want to do the same for the rest of the deck.
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Regards, Peter