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Cazador Xebec 1750 - OcCre - scale 1:60 [COMPLETED BUILD]

'I didn't have brass pulleys in my kit. The pulleys in my version are cast metal, not bad at all but off scale, so it doesn't fit the slots I've made into the heads of the masts.
The sharp line is refering to the transition between the ink and the natural wood of the masts. Hope that clears things a bit. :)
Don't worry, it's not you but my explanation in English is just a mess....Speechless
Ok it makes sense now… ;)
I saw vertical lines on the mast head by the slots and got confused…sigh! And the cast pulleys may have been usable, but what you made is fine! Plus once the rope goes over them, you really don’t see them anyway. Thanks for clarifying! Keep up the good work! ;)
 
Chapter x? - Masts

Hi Guys,

A small update of my work of last weekend. I had to figure out how I wanted to fabricate and construct the top parts of the masts. The kit provides me with plywood out of scale parts that didn't made it on the ship, so I decided to make new ones. There are a few ways to make these and the easiest way is to laminate wooden strips together and leave gaps on the place where the slots needs to be. I didn't do it this way, don't ask me why but I tried the hard way. A solid piece of walnut and milled 1mm slots into the wood with my Proxxon drill. :rolleyes: In the end it worked but sometimes I just don't understand myself. ROTF

The disks are 1mm thick and has a 5mm diameter. I use one of my files to make the slot into the disks, dryfitted and painted them dark grey (yes I used paint)
For those who know me a little bit, I can't paint....Sealed the disks with a semi gloss varnish.

The tops and bottoms of the masts are blackened with East Indian Ink. I truely love this stuff. It's really black and has no pigment in it. Made purely out of charcoal I believe.
The Ink is very thin and flows like a dye, so you get "bleed outs" very easily if you want a sharp line. Tape doesn't help here. To avoid this I make a small cut into the wood with a hobby knife. The cut, as small as it is, prevents bleed outs.

I still need to oil the wood as a finish, but that's for later....

regards,
Peter


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Good morning Peter. Nope I don’t understand you either ROTF. However, the end result of the mast tops came out way better than the laminate process. In particular as you used Indian ink the laminate would show where the glue would have been. Precise work.

You answered a question I have long thought over - how to get Indian ink to hold a definite line- super clever. I would have used it on my Victory so much more than I did if I knew this as I too really like how it finishes. You can still see the wood effect where paint takes this away.

I have been waiting for this update and you never disappoint Peter:D:D.
Cheers Grant
 
Chapter x? - Masts

Hi Guys,

A small update of my work of last weekend. I had to figure out how I wanted to fabricate and construct the top parts of the masts. The kit provides me with plywood out of scale parts that didn't made it on the ship, so I decided to make new ones. There are a few ways to make these and the easiest way is to laminate wooden strips together and leave gaps on the place where the slots needs to be. I didn't do it this way, don't ask me why but I tried the hard way. A solid piece of walnut and milled 1mm slots into the wood with my Proxxon drill. :rolleyes: In the end it worked but sometimes I just don't understand myself. ROTF

The disks are 1mm thick and has a 5mm diameter. I use one of my files to make the slot into the disks, dryfitted and painted them dark grey (yes I used paint)
For those who know me a little bit, I can't paint....Sealed the disks with a semi gloss varnish.

The tops and bottoms of the masts are blackened with East Indian Ink. I truely love this stuff. It's really black and has no pigment in it. Made purely out of charcoal I believe.
The Ink is very thin and flows like a dye, so you get "bleed outs" very easily if you want a sharp line. Tape doesn't help here. To avoid this I make a small cut into the wood with a hobby knife. The cut, as small as it is, prevents bleed outs.

I still need to oil the wood as a finish, but that's for later....

regards,
Peter


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Nice piece of craftsmanship, Peter. With nice details!
Regards, Peter
 
Ok it makes sense now… ;)
I saw vertical lines on the mast head by the slots and got confused…sigh! And the cast pulleys may have been usable, but what you made is fine! Plus once the rope goes over them, you really don’t see them anyway. Thanks for clarifying! Keep up the good work! ;)
Forgive my bad English....
When I read back my post I see it's a little confusing hopping from mastheads to slots to pulleys with slots and not really a link between it all so thanks for pointing that out. Next update I will take this into account and I try to make my sentences a bit more logical, or just using Google translate. ROTF

Good morning Peter. Nope I don’t understand you either ROTF. However, the end result of the mast tops came out way better than the laminate process. In particular as you used Indian ink the laminate would show where the glue would have been. Precise work.

You answered a question I have long thought over - how to get Indian ink to hold a definite line- super clever. I would have used it on my Victory so much more than I did if I knew this as I too really like how it finishes. You can still see the wood effect where paint takes this away.

I have been waiting for this update and you never disappoint Peter:D:D.
Cheers Grant

If I laminated the wood with a perfect bond between the pieces, it wouldn't be shown after inked the parts. "Inked" is that a good English word or is it "Ptèrnglisch". :p
During my first schooltime (it was a technical school) I learned this "trick" when using Ecoline ink on wood. Just carve a small line into the wood and the dye or Ecoline stops at the line. If you use too much of it, it goes over the line and you make a mess out of it. So be gentle with the ammount of dye or ink you put on it.

I help anyone out with all of their " long life questions" just send me a PM and a nice reward via Paypal and everything works out for us both. :cool:;)

regards,
Peter

Nice piece of craftsmanship, Peter. With nice details!
Regards, Peter

Thanks Peter! Love your comment!
 
Chapter x? - Masts

Hi Guys,

A small update of my work of last weekend. I had to figure out how I wanted to fabricate and construct the top parts of the masts. The kit provides me with plywood out of scale parts that didn't made it on the ship, so I decided to make new ones. There are a few ways to make these and the easiest way is to laminate wooden strips together and leave gaps on the place where the slots needs to be. I didn't do it this way, don't ask me why but I tried the hard way. A solid piece of walnut and milled 1mm slots into the wood with my Proxxon drill. :rolleyes: In the end it worked but sometimes I just don't understand myself. ROTF

The disks are 1mm thick and has a 5mm diameter. I use one of my files to make the slot into the disks, dryfitted and painted them dark grey (yes I used paint)
For those who know me a little bit, I can't paint....Sealed the disks with a semi gloss varnish.

The tops and bottoms of the masts are blackened with East Indian Ink. I truely love this stuff. It's really black and has no pigment in it. Made purely out of charcoal I believe.
The Ink is very thin and flows like a dye, so you get "bleed outs" very easily if you want a sharp line. Tape doesn't help here. To avoid this I make a small cut into the wood with a hobby knife. The cut, as small as it is, prevents bleed outs.

I still need to oil the wood as a finish, but that's for later....

regards,
Peter


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I thoroughly enjoy the craftmanship shown, there's a lot to gather from all the details you provide on the parts you make.
 
Love the comment of you guys. We had diner and it has some woody flavor, like my aftershave.

I've constructed my second anchor. I like to make 4 in total. This model has only two, but I like to make some extra. These ships had spares on deck when an anchor got lost. Also I have to make the buoys, but that's for later.

photo 576711


photo 576709


photo 576710


De opening aan de bovenkant is kleiner dan die aan de onderkant

photo 576712


Het vormen van de ankerstok

photo 576713


photo 576714


Van heel dun messing plaat heb ik reepjes gesneden en met bruineringsvloeistof (patina grijs) gemaakt. De messing strips gebogen zodat dit de banden worden die om de ankerstok wordt gezet.

photo 576715


Daarna de ring omwikkeld met touw en de kabels aangebracht.

photo 576716


photo 576717


Regards,

Peter
 
Love the comment of you guys. We had diner and it has some woody flavor, like my aftershave.

I've constructed my second anchor. I like to make 4 in total. This model has only two, but I like to make some extra. These ships had spares on deck when an anchor got lost. Also I have to make the buoys, but that's for later.

photo 576711


photo 576709


photo 576710


De opening aan de bovenkant is kleiner dan die aan de onderkant

photo 576712


Het vormen van de ankerstok

photo 576713


photo 576714


Van heel dun messing plaat heb ik reepjes gesneden en met bruineringsvloeistof (patina grijs) gemaakt. De messing strips gebogen zodat dit de banden worden die om de ankerstok wordt gezet.

photo 576715


Daarna de ring omwikkeld met touw en de kabels aangebracht.

photo 576716


photo 576717


Regards,

Peter
Such beautiful precise work!
 
Love the comment of you guys. We had diner and it has some woody flavor, like my aftershave.

I've constructed my second anchor. I like to make 4 in total. This model has only two, but I like to make some extra. These ships had spares on deck when an anchor got lost. Also I have to make the buoys, but that's for later.

photo 576711


photo 576709


photo 576710


De opening aan de bovenkant is kleiner dan die aan de onderkant

photo 576712


Het vormen van de ankerstok

photo 576713


photo 576714


Van heel dun messing plaat heb ik reepjes gesneden en met bruineringsvloeistof (patina grijs) gemaakt. De messing strips gebogen zodat dit de banden worden die om de ankerstok wordt gezet.

photo 576715


Daarna de ring omwikkeld met touw en de kabels aangebracht.

photo 576716


photo 576717


Regards,

Peter
Nice anchors, Peter. And making the bands from thin strips of brass plate is a proven method. The rope-work is stunning.
Regards, Peter
 
They are looking very good - also the rigging of the anchor is great with using a correct knot.
Are these than the spare anchors for the deck? These would not have the cable connected to the anchor ring
 
Nice anchors, Peter. And making the bands from thin strips of brass plate is a proven method. The rope-work is stunning.
Regards, Peter

Thanks Peter, It seems I can always count on you leaving a nice reply! On this scale I could also use paper strips to simulate he bands, however I do love the brass...;)

They are looking very good - also the rigging of the anchor is great with using a correct knot.
Are these than the spare anchors for the deck? These would not have the cable connected to the anchor ring

Hi Uwe,

Thank you, hopefully the knot is correct because this was a bit of a gamble. I've seen different methods been used depending on the timeperiod, country of origin etc. So, I picked one with my eyes closed....
Actually these are the main anchors. The spares I still have to make them and won't be tied to cable, but placed somewhere on deck....

Peter
 
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