DocBlake's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build - 1/32 Scale - [COMPLETED BUILD]

[tedboat]

Good progress Dave, now I se how the fill blocks between the frames make the work easier when we get to where you are now.
The filling blocks are also important earlier in the process of stiffening the frames.
In my case, I think it would help because I think some of the frames are a little too low.
Greeting-

Very neat and impressive Dave!

Ted

 

[Jimsky]

I will eco Ted, very accurately build, Dave.

 

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys!

I pinned and glued the main jeer bitt to the lower deck as well as to the aft surface of beam 2. I then pinned and glued the support columns to the lower deck and used clamps to hold beam 1 in place so the support beams underneath beam 1 stay where they are supposed to. I made the chain pump cranks of 1/16" brass rod. They need to be blackened.

 

[DocBlake]

Blackened cranks. The cranks are comp[lately blackened using Birchwood Casey Brass Black. The light areas on the last photo are from the sun's glare.

 

[mrshanks]

You know the details are good when you can get that close with the camera and the model still looks great!!!

 

[DonRobinson]

Fantastic work Dave

 

[donfarr]

Dave just beautiful work. Don

 

[Norway]

Very good pictures Dave, explains most of it.

 

[tedboat]

Excellent work Dave - Oh, the joys of working to a larger scale, especially if you have fingers like sausages!

Well done

Ted

 

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys!

One word of caution: When you fabricate the crank handle, make sure the "offset" (where the seaman grabs the crank to operate it) isn't so large that it can't clear the two carlings that frame the hatch above. The plans show this to be a pretty close fit, so pay attention: smaller, rather than larger for the "offset"! No criticism, Mike. It's just hard to accurately bend 1/16" brass...it can result in an oversized crank. How do I know this???...………LOL!!

 

[Mike41]

If you use a torch brass bends without difficulty, but you may still have a knuckle buster.

 

[DocBlake]

Yeah, you're right Mike! I was going to anneal the brass rod, but I thought it would be too "bendy" for the cranks. A little harder this way, but it still works!

 

[tedboat]

Thanks, guys!

One word of caution: When you fabricate the crank handle, make sure the "offset" (where the seaman grabs the crank to operate it) isn't so large that it can't clear the two carlings that frame the hatch above. The plans show this to be a pretty close fit, so pay attention: smaller, rather than larger for the "offset"! No criticism, Mike. It's just hard to accurately bend 1/16" brass...it can result in an oversized crank. How do I know this???...………LOL!!

Had the same problem on Kingfisher - my crewmen were swearing at me! Remade them

Ted

 

[DocBlake]

The decking over the aft chain pump cranks is finished. Wiped with mineral spirits to show color, no final sanding yet.

 

[Mike41]

Very nice work Dave.

 

[BigMike]

Just beautiful Dave, metal work is amazing. Did you use Brass Black to blacken? The finish has such a rich sheen.

 

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys! Yup, Mike...I used Brass Black. After shaping the cranks I rubbed them down with OOOO steel wool, than washed them with acetone. The Brass Black painted on easily. Etching with muriatic acid won’t hurt either!

 

[tedboat]

Very nice work Dave.

The decking over the aft chain pump cranks is finished. Wiped with mineral spirits to show color, no final sanding yet.View attachment 104989View attachment 104990View attachment 104991

Very nice work Dave - Looking good!

Ted

 

[SigEp Ziggy]

Once again, very professional work!

 

[DocBlake]

Thanks, guys!