DocBlake's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build - 1/32 Scale

tedboat

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Good progress Dave, now I se how the fill blocks between the frames make the work easier when we get to where you are now.
The filling blocks are also important earlier in the process of stiffening the frames.
In my case, I think it would help because I think some of the frames are a little too low.
Greeting-
Very neat and impressive Dave!

Ted
 

DocBlake

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Thanks, guys!

I pinned and glued the main jeer bitt to the lower deck as well as to the aft surface of beam 2. I then pinned and glued the support columns to the lower deck and used clamps to hold beam 1 in place so the support beams underneath beam 1 stay where they are supposed to. I made the chain pump cranks of 1/16" brass rod. They need to be blackened.





IMG_0420.JPGIMG_0422.JPGIMG_0423.JPG
 
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DocBlake

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Thanks, guys!

One word of caution: When you fabricate the crank handle, make sure the "offset" (where the seaman grabs the crank to operate it) isn't so large that it can't clear the two carlings that frame the hatch above. The plans show this to be a pretty close fit, so pay attention: smaller, rather than larger for the "offset"! No criticism, Mike. It's just hard to accurately bend 1/16" brass...it can result in an oversized crank. How do I know this???...………LOL!!
 

tedboat

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Thanks, guys!

One word of caution: When you fabricate the crank handle, make sure the "offset" (where the seaman grabs the crank to operate it) isn't so large that it can't clear the two carlings that frame the hatch above. The plans show this to be a pretty close fit, so pay attention: smaller, rather than larger for the "offset"! No criticism, Mike. It's just hard to accurately bend 1/16" brass...it can result in an oversized crank. How do I know this???...………LOL!!
Had the same problem on Kingfisher - my crewmen were swearing at me! Remade them

Ted
 

DocBlake

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Blandford Group Build
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Thanks!

I'm finally getting serious about finishing this model! I began construction of the main deck in earnest. The first step was to cut the bulwarks to the trim line and prep them for planking. Then I build deck beam #2, including the arm beams and the carlings and ledges. This beam was epoxied in place. next I did all the fiddly things to get the aft chain pump cranks to fit. With the jeer bitt and the crank supports in place, I epoxied beam #1 into position. I installed all 4 carlings between beam #1 and #2 and started to work on the ledges. Once those are in, beam #3 and the little filler pieces between #2 and #3 will be installed.



md1.jpgmd2.jpg
 

DocBlake

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Fitting ledges or carlings can be frustrating. They need to be kept slightly wide so they can be sanded to fit the mortises tightly. But that makes cutting them to length harder. You can't just "test fit" the too-wide timber in its mortise. What you can
do is sneak up on the length with your sander, slipping the piece in the mortise diagonally to test the fit! Try it! It's easy to do and it works. Once you have the length right, you can sand the width to fit the mortise and the fit should be tight. ( note: the ledges aren't glued in place yet, which is why they don't line up perfectly with the carlings on the top surface!)



length rightIMG_0434.JPGIMG_0436.JPG
 

tedboat

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Fitting ledges or carlings can be frustrating. They need to be kept slightly wide so they can be sanded to fit the mortises tightly. But that makes cutting them to length harder. You can't just "test fit" the too-wide timber in its mortise. What you can
do is sneak up on the length with your sander, slipping the piece in the mortise diagonally to test the fit! Try it! It's easy to do and it works. Once you have the length right, you can sand the width to fit the mortise and the fit should be tight. ( note: the ledges aren't glued in place yet, which is why they don't line up perfectly with the carlings on the top surface!)



length rightView attachment 104533View attachment 104534
Gets better and better!

Ted
 
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