DocBlake's HMS Blandford Cross Section Build - 1/32 Scale

dj56

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 20, 2017
Messages
267
Points
93

Good afternoon Doc, look ahead to learn even more tricks from you like these with the eggs, and as far as your construction is concerned, y will also look forward to progress, building kits is one thing ... but making these things like you and others do on the hms Blandford cross section
is for me from another planet.
groetjes
dj56 ( willy )
 

Mike41

Moderator
Staff member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Aug 10, 2017
Messages
813
Points
298

Thanks, guys!

I was concerned about how the frames were going to fit and whether fairing the "curve" in the frames moving aft was going to cause me to lose to much of the wood making up the aft-most frames. After dry fitting the frames, I found the curve to be nice and graceful and likely to require much less wood removal that I thought. Great lofting job, Mike!

The jig is a little off...especially frame #7 but that may be partially my fault in taking off too much in the depth of the notches for #7. Nothing a little shimming can't fix.
Thanks Dave,
If everything fit perfectly n the first try this would be a boring hobby, if you use my drawings that will not happen. Lol
Mike
 

donfarr

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
1,134
Points
338

Wish my frames looked like yours really did a bad job on them, most of the problems will be hidden, by the strakes and footwalling, need to find a better way to do the frames I have been doing it by sections on the patterns, doing each one very close to the line, but my frame shape are terible. Don
 

DocBlake

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
893
Points
393

Location
Pewaukee, Wisconsin
I finished the keel and used brass tubing, glued to holes in the keel to fit into holes drilled in the build board to mount the keel. It's removable.
I sanded the inboard side of all the frames with my spindle sander and I marked the location of both the upper and lower deck clamps on each frame from the plans. Then I scored each line with an X-Acto knife so the location marks blan1.JPGblan2.JPGblan3.JPGwould remain, even after final sanding. I carefully plumbed each frame and centered them on the keel using a squaring jig and line level. the first 5 frames are virtually identical and are glued in place. Frames 6-9 taper inward moving aft and begin rising oon the keel also. That's next.
 

donfarr

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
1,134
Points
338

Great Craftmanship Dave, LOOKING TO LEARN SOMETHING FROM YOUR BUILD ESPECIALLY THE MAIN DECK BEAMS. Don
 

Mike41

Moderator
Staff member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Aug 10, 2017
Messages
813
Points
298

Hi Dave,
Your frames look great! How do you like using the European Beechwood? I think it is very easy to work with and looks good.
Mike
 

DocBlake

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
893
Points
393

Location
Pewaukee, Wisconsin
Thanks, Mike. I really like the beech. Easy to work and finishes well. And it looks like oak. I’ll use it for the footwalling and the thick stuff in the hold, but I plan to use cherry for the deck framing for contrast.
 
Last edited:

Mike41

Moderator
Staff member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Aug 10, 2017
Messages
813
Points
298

Hi Dave, you are doing a fine job. I am sure the cherry will look great with the beech wood.
Mike
 

DocBlake

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
893
Points
393

Location
Pewaukee, Wisconsin
After careful sanding and fitting, I glued the keelson to the frame floors using epoxy. I'll add some reinforcing bolts a little later. I cut the rabbet for the limber boards into the first strake using my Byrnes saw. The limber boards are one continuous board, with separations simulated with a X-Acto blade, a narrow needle file and pencil marks. I drilled 5/64" holes (2-1/2" in scale) for the finger holes. I then started laying the floorwaling. The last photo is a detail of the limber board-keelson anatomy. None of the wood has poly yet.


Img_1085.jpgImg_1086.jpgImg_1087.jpgImg_1083.jpg
 

DocBlake

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 24, 2015
Messages
893
Points
393

Location
Pewaukee, Wisconsin
I finally finished the strakes and footwaling in the hold, and mounted the lower deck clamps. The deck clamps and lower deck framing will be swiss pear. I also added a strake below the clamps with a simulated scarf joint (I borrowed the idea from Andy!). My plan is to fasten done the keelson with some scale model railroad spikes to simulate bolts. I'd like to use dyed black toothpicks and do the same to the strakes and footwaling, but I'm afraid the effect might be "too much" and look like a case of measles! What do you guys think? Any ideas?hold1.jpghold2.jpghold3.jpghold4.jpg
 

donfarr

Well-Known Member
Blandford Group Build
Joined
Jan 9, 2013
Messages
1,134
Points
338

My opion is if you did it every frame it would be to much, just my opion, looking foreward to your build so I can learn from it, as this is my first try at scratch building, have made some mistakes on the lower deck framing, I hope to corect the mistakes when I do the main deck framing waiting for materials to arrive to continue my build, I am using Beech for the deck beams and Natural Pear for the knees, carlings and ledges, I look foreward to when you get to the main deck. Don
 
Top