Don Farr's Blandford Cross Section Build

Hi Guys, progress pictures, showing correction to the LDHK, ( YOUR SUGGESTION ON A PIECE OF STRIP WOOD was much better than mine) all pictures show it DRY FITTED) let me know Mike WHAT you think, as you remember I had a QUESTION of the white spots occurring, it was determined that The CA accelerator was causing the problem while using the 100% acetone nail polish remover, I just thought I would TRY A FIX one last time, I used the acetone on the affected spots and low and behold the white spots were gone,, SO FAR HOLDING up, does anyone have an idea as to what to apply NEXT, a wipe on poly etc let me know. Don


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donfarr said:
Hi Guys, progress pictures, showing correction to the LDHK, ( YOUR SUGESTION ON A PIECE OF STRIP WOOD was much better then mine) all pictures show it DRY FITTED) let me know Mike WHAT you think, as you remember I had a QUESTION of the white spots occuring,,,it was determend that The CA accelartor was causeing the problem while using the 100% acotone nsail poloish remover, I just thought I would TRY A FIX one last time, I used the acotone on the effected spots and low and behold the white spots were gone,, SO FAR HOLDING up, does anyone have an idea as to what to apply NEXT, a wipe on poly etc let me know. Don
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Hi Don,
It looks like you are making some progress. I use Danish Oil to finish most of my models including my Blandford Cross Section, it is easy to use wipe on and wipe off the excess.
Mike
 
Don the only thing that protects a model from dust is a glass display case. I have not used Danish oil over Min Wax products, I would suggest experimenting on some scrap material before using it on your model.
Mike
 
you are absolutly correct,so far the display cases inclding the PLXI-GLASS ARE VERY EXPENSIVE, if I was younger I would make my own out of plxi, but not now all the big tools are at my SON-IN-LAWS LKE CABIN ON LAKE CASIDY, AND I DO NOT DRIVE ANYMORE almost 5 years since the Drs. said no. THANKS Don
 
progress pictures lower deck, still needs some work in taking out and redoing 4 ledges not happy with them, the mast is dry fitted into the mast step, one BIG PROBLEM HAPPENED AND THERE IS NOTHING I CAN DO ABOUT IT WILL HAVE TO LIVE WITH IT, even though it really will not be seen, but Mike I would like to know what I did wrong, the problem is I took the mesurment off of the plans from LDB 1 to LDB 2,and the same for LDB 3 the arms fit well so I thought i was OK, but no there is a big difference from LDB 1 to LDB 2 and from LDB 3 to LDB 4, according to plans it should be the same, do not know what I did wrong,,,,but it is acceptable as you said I have Anothe chance with the upper deck, it is what it is for a first effort I can live with it,,,BUT NO MORE,,,, NOW TWO QUESTIONS FOR MIKE,1 the MDBs plans show the thickness of 1/4 inch, the BOM calls for 1/4 inch material can not put camber on the beam need thicker material so I can scroll saw it to the proper camber WHAT SIZE MATERIAL SHOULD I USE,,,,No 2 is the MAST DETAILS not sure of what is happening there with the 3 sizes, I looked at you build log and I think it shows one size going up 1/2 Inch I am probally wrong PLEASE HELP ON THESE TWO QUESTIONS,,,, I am going to be slowing down on this not stopping butslowing down so I can work on CHRISTMAS PRESENTS, FOR FAMILY. THANKS FOR THE HELP Don PS the finish I decided on is MIN-WAX NATURAL STAIN and a POLYCRILIC WATER BASE SEMI GLOSS is it OK TO USE WATER BASE with the natural stain

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donfarr said:
progress pictures lower deck, still needs some work in taking out and redoing 4 ledges not happy with them, the mast is dry fitted into the mast step, one BIG PROBLEM HAPPENED AND THERE IS NOTHING I CAN DO ABOUT IT WILL HAVE TO LIVE WITH IT, even though it really will not be seen, but Mike I would like to know what I did wrong, the problem is I took the mesurment off of the plans from LDB 1 to LDB 2,and the same for LDB 3 the arms fit well so I thought i was OK, but no there is a big difference from LDB 1 to LDB 2 and from LDB 3 to LDB 4, according to plans it should be the same, do not know what I did wrong,,,,but it is acceptable as you said I have Anothe chance with the upper deck, it is what it is for a first effort I can live with it,,,BUT NO MORE,,,, NOW TWO QUESTIONS FOR MIKE,1 the MDBs plans show the thickness of 1/4 inch, the BOM calls for 1/4 inch material can not put camber on the beam need thicker material so I can scroll saw it to the proper camber WHAT SIZE MATERIAL SHOULD I USE,,,,No 2 is the MAST DETAILS not sure of what is happening there with the 3 sizes, I looked at you build log and I think it shows one size going up 1/2 Inch I am probally wrong PLEASE HELP ON THESE TWO QUESTIONS,,,, I am going to be slowing down on this not stopping butslowing down so I can work on CHRISTMAS PRESENTS, FOR FAMILY. THANKS FOR THE HELP Don PS the finish I decided on is MIN-WAX NATURAL STAIN and a POLYCRILIC WATER BASE SEMI GLOSS is it OK TO USE WATER BASE with the natural stain
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Hi Don,
I can’t tell from the photos but one of your beams may not be perpendicular to the center-line that would cause a gap. I would leave the good side open and plank the one with the gap.

NOW TWO QUESTIONS FOR MIKE,1 the MDBs plans show the thickness of 1/4 inch, the BOM calls for 1/4 inch material can not put camber on the beam need thicker material so I can scroll saw it to the proper camber WHAT SIZE MATERIAL SHOULD I USE,,,,No 2 is the MAST DETAILS not sure of what is happening there with the 3 sizes, I looked at you build log and I think it shows one size going up 1/2 Inch I am probally wrong PLEASE HELP ON THESE TWO QUESTIONS,,,,
  • The BOM for the Main Deck Beams is 1 piece 4 ½” x 18” x1/4”. The pattern sheet for the deck beams shows a plan (top) view above an elevation view of parts MDB-1 thru MDB-4. You need to attach the elevation patterns to the board and cut the curve with your scroll saw, sand both sides smooth and attach the plan views to the four pieces, cut out the notches for the carlings. Check the length of each beam at its location on the model, cut each beam to length notch the ends and install them.
  • The Mast is a piece of ¾” diameter dowel rod. The bottom of the rod is turned down to 3/8” to fit into the mast step, the next section is turned down to 9/16” from the mast step to the top of the lower deck, the top section should have a slight taper and end about 6” above the lower deck.
  • The water base will be okay to use with the natural stain.
Mike
 
Thanks top piece Mike, I think I got how to put camber on the deck beams, on the mast, what about the 1 1/8 in. THANKS FOR THE HELP, even tough it is not what I want IT IS A GREAT LEARNING EXPERIENCE, LOOKING FOREWARD TO THE NEXT ONE one other question the carlings and ledges on the lower deck is in Walnut, how would the top deck CARLINGS AND LEDGES LOOK IN NATURAL PEAR I have qite a bit of 1/4 in left over. THANKS AGAIN Don PS hey guys all who signed up it is getting lonely here, how about some more builds all the corections are finished, so no problems there
 
What do you meant by “THANKS FOR THE HELP, even tough it is not what I want“. What is it that you want?
 
BAD MESSAGE MIKE, LOUSY GRAMMER AND SPOELLING, I WAS THANKING YOU FOR ALL YOUR HELP AND FOR THIS PROJECT AND THE WORK YOU PUT IN,,,,,,WHAT I MEANT BY NOT WHAT I WANT I WAS SPEAKING ABOUT HOW THE LOWER DECK TURNED OUT AND MY CRAFTMANSHIP WAS NOT WHAT I WANT TO PRODUCE, from now on I will be more SPECIFIC IN WHAT I AM TRYING TO COMUNICATE, MY BAD, PLEASE FORGIVE my miscomuniacation. Don
 
It is okay, I just did not understand what you were asking for. Your craftmanship will improve with practice, don’t rush take your time a little care goes a long way.
Mike
 
pictures of HATCH with dry fitting the framing of the grateing, the BOM CALLS FOR HATCH WAY SIDES TO BE 3/8 inch X 3/16 in, using I had to purchase the HATCH WAY GRATEING from mode expo, have no MACHINERY TO make the gratings, the picture sows the frame to be the material set on edge, it seems to over power the ship the second way is the horizanta position, seem mor resonable. THANKS FOR ANY HELP Don

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Hi Don,
It looks like you are having a problem with the grating, since you are using prefabricated grating you need to lay it over the deck plan, cut the pieces to length, assemble the grating slightly smaller than the plan shows, then add the sides. If the grating is too tall you can sand in down to the correct height.
Mike
 
Mike41 said:
Hi Don,
It looks like you are having a problem with the grating, since you are using prefabricated grating you need to lay it over the deck plan, cut the pieces to length, assemble the grating slightly smaller than the plan shows, then add the sides. If the grating is too tall you can sand in down to the correct height.
Mike
Click to expand...
 
Hi Mike, the grating is not problem, I can make that work it is the grating sides, I show 2 ways of doing it, using the BOM sizes for the hatchway, which one should I use thanks Don
 
Hi Don,
The first photo shows the grating, the next photo shows the widest part of the side flat against the frames this is the one you should use. There is a 1/16” square notch inside the grating frame that makes a little shelf to support the grating.
Mike
 
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