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- Aug 10, 2017
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Hi Jim,
Zen is a Japanese sect of Mahayana Buddhism that aims at enlightenment by direct intuition through meditation by approaching a problem with a clear mind the solution will become obvious.
I guess that works for some people.
Mike
Zen is a Japanese sect of Mahayana Buddhism that aims at enlightenment by direct intuition through meditation by approaching a problem with a clear mind the solution will become obvious.
I guess that works for some people.
Mike
Hello Eric ,did you simplifie the frames ,they should be 12 pieces double framed and yours looks like 4-5 pieces single frame?
Hi Zoltan, going by the latest set of drawings there are two sheets per frame one is Frame 1 Parts, which has the individual parts that make up the frame, and the other one is Frame 1 Pattern which has the whole frame showing how/where the parts go together, I went with the Pattern, but because my plank of wood is not wide enough I had to "cut" the frame, so each frame will consist of three pieces instead of 14 because my plank is the thickness of the 'made up' frame. Hope this explains it.
@Jimsky, Jim, many years (80's) my weekends were taken up doing Archery (target) and quite by chance in the local library I came across a book entitled "The Zen of Archery". It taught me to shut out everything else around me and focus visually and mentally on the little red dot 100 yards away, my average was 8 out of 10 arrows striking the bull, prior to that I had three or so arrows hitting the entire target out of ten. When I got into League Ten Pin bowling I applied the same "rules" and averaged 250+ per game. The very last, final league game I ever played became my first and only 300 game. When I was a Freemason (no longer) I was able to recite 20 pages of ritual without mistake or prompt applying the philosophy.
Admittedly there are times when I forget to use the philosophy as previously demonstrated.
I have searched all over for that book but alas cannot find it, divine intervention? maybe, who knows?
Admittedly there are times when I forget to use the philosophy as previously demonstrated.
I have searched all over for that book but alas cannot find it, divine intervention? maybe, who knows?
Taken off this sheet.
For any folks about to or intending to do this build bear in mind that Frames 1 - 5 are identical.
Hello Eric,how is your build progressing?
Very slow at the moment, almost sliced my index finger off whilst doing maintenance on my bandsaw two days before Easter. I had no feeling in half of the finger until a few days ago. Will post some pictures of where I'm at soon.
Anxious to see your progress!
Ohh man,did you leave plugged in the band saw while doing maintanance?Get well soon and let’s see your progress.
Hi Eric, so you are in your 80s also me 81, some health problems but i still manage, maintance on the band saw have a question if i am messing up your thread please PM me my band saw is a 9inch bench performax, decent machine, but now my blade is fluttering badly, i was told this was going to happen and was told to get Carter guide bearings the price was approximatly $100.00 went to the CARTER SITE BUT ALL I COULD FIND WAS GUIDES FOR 14 inch and up BAND SAWS do you have any idea how I can get them, sent CARTER AN EMAI BUT NO ANSWER,. THANKS Don
Hi Zoltan and Don, I have a Ryobi bandsaw. To adjust the guides/bearings on the underside of the table, the side cover must be open. The power switch AND particularly the blade are then exposed. I had switched off the power, drew my hand away from the switch while also looking under the table (there was the problem).
Finger got too close to the blade (which fortunately was powering down) which was followed by excruciating pain and literally huge quantities of blood.
Don, have a look at what Ryobi have in their range. Mine has a thrust bearing at the back and 3-4mm metal guides for the sides, one at 45 degrees the other at 90 degrees, that don't actually touch the blade (friction) but are about two thicknesses of paper away from the blade.
Actually Don I am 66 this year (July), sometimes I feel as old as Methuselah, I have my moments hahaha.
Finger got too close to the blade (which fortunately was powering down) which was followed by excruciating pain and literally huge quantities of blood.
Don, have a look at what Ryobi have in their range. Mine has a thrust bearing at the back and 3-4mm metal guides for the sides, one at 45 degrees the other at 90 degrees, that don't actually touch the blade (friction) but are about two thicknesses of paper away from the blade.
Actually Don I am 66 this year (July), sometimes I feel as old as Methuselah, I have my moments hahaha.
DocBlake, So am I.
The above image shows the layout of the parts to be cut out on the CNC, the scale on the left is 4" the width is 12".
This image shows the "toolpath", that is, the path the router will move the cutting bit. It will go 'round each part four times.
Pretty blank wood.
This is a 3D view of the tool path, note there are four blue lines indicating the four depths it will cut.
And this is a 3D view of what it should look like WHEN everything goes right, HA!
Stay tuned for the next episode.
Now here is the case where everything DID NOT go right. The piece of wood I am using is pine salvaged from an old bookcase that was given to me, the simulation (router well above the work piece and not turning) went smoothly no hiccups or glitches (I smell Murphy's law somewhere nearby) Note piece at top right corner.
BTW, the sim took 40 minutes to run, running 14959 lines of code. The reason why so many lines is that it is cutting each piece 4 times, that way the bit doesn't overheat.
BTW
This came about by the two pieces being too close to each other in the initial layout.
the above four pictures show what happens when the bit is going too deep and cuts through the "tabs" that are supposed to hold the pieces in place and it moves while the bit is spinning (part stuffed)
Spreader bar nice and straight (First piece to be cut)
Second piece to be cut, you can see the four levels as it cut down. The top of the piece closest to the camera is supposed to be the same width as the bottom.
BTW, the sim took 40 minutes to run, running 14959 lines of code. The reason why so many lines is that it is cutting each piece 4 times, that way the bit doesn't overheat.
BTW
This came about by the two pieces being too close to each other in the initial layout.
the above four pictures show what happens when the bit is going too deep and cuts through the "tabs" that are supposed to hold the pieces in place and it moves while the bit is spinning (part stuffed)
Spreader bar nice and straight (First piece to be cut)
Second piece to be cut, you can see the four levels as it cut down. The top of the piece closest to the camera is supposed to be the same width as the bottom.
The reason I am using pine is so that bugs can be ironed out before I use the quality wood which by the way is much harder than pine, in fact considerably harder.
This is the 3mm endmill I am using, the "burn" marks are from friction through the knots in the pine
Tomorrow (Wednesday in Aus.) I will try the 3mm Ball Nose endmill bit, so called because of its round tip. This type of bit is normally used for fine finishing 3D carvings. On the right is a 3mm to 6mm adapter to fit the ball nose into the router.
Well, today life took precedence but, there is always a tomorrow, thank goodness.