Halifax Build Log: Lumberyard

Thanks Zoly, Can not believe I was so stupid not to relize what I was doing have built the Caustic from Dave and had the same type of jig, so know reason not to have know, just another senior citizen moment. DON
 
You know those turnbuckles you see ie the smaller ones, well my idea cut the hooks off grind a point on each side then put them inside jjugjig and just tighten them up. The point will snug into the frame and if you pic tig up it shou"d keep frame in jig and the little turnbuckle be inside of jig out of the way
 
Moving along well Don. Dave advised that the kit for NBM is almost ready to ship. Getting itchy fingers and can't wait to get started. Its been a while since I was able to sit down and build a model so I'm really looking forward to it.

Joseph, I like the idea of the turnbuckles. I've used them in a similar application.
 
Progress pictures of FRAMES A THRU J FASTNED IN PLACE, I opted for this method of installing frames using bot Dave and Hahns method, I was worried if I turnded jig over as Dave sugested it would be to unstable to work on so I left it like a Hahn style upside down jig, BUT I USED DAVE SUGESTION OF RAISING THE FRAMES TO MEET THE KEEL NOTCHES, as it would not matter as they will be cut off latter, I first installed FIRST AND LAST WHOLE FRAME(FRAME No A AND V) then glued the keel assembly to them, also note the FRAMES WERE CLAMPED TIGHT AGAINST TH BACK OF JIG after sanding frames to center on the keel, I will have another 3 frames in place by tonight....SO I AM GOING TO NEED HELP FROM DAVE ON THE CANT FRAMES BEVELS AND THE PLACING OF THE HALF FRAMES.
Frames A thru J installed. Showing frames glued to keel assembly. Showing frames raised up so that they fit into keel notches and then glued in place. Frames A thru J installed20170814_193401.jpg20170814_193515.jpg20170814_193643.jpg20170814_193948.jpg
 
Yes there are some gaps in the joints will fill them withe a mixture of sanding dust, white glue and water, when cut from jig, should have been done before installing other frames were done. Don
 
Hi Don,
It is nice to see you have started a build log Your model is looking good and I am looking forward to watching your progress.
Mike
 
THANKS MIKE, DAVE NEED HELP WITH CANT FRAMES BEVELS, AND HALF FRAMES.....ALSO HOW TO DETERMINE THE UNDERSIDE OF RAIL FOR THE CANT AND HALF FRAMES. Don
 
Hi Everyone, Have not posted in a while, pictures to follow on the progress sometime this week; ...update all whole frames are installed, dry fitting stern Half Frames, and Stem Cant frames,...some mistakes were made will not in this build gloss over them, will show them and solutions that I have come up with to fix them hopefully, and any sugestions for improvement will be greatly appreciated. THANKS Don
 
you can see the pencil lines where Harold drew in where the wales will go. The way he did this is to take measurements off the plans and transfer them to the model for the Halifax you measure up from the jig to whatever you want to locate either the wales or under the caprail. Take a measurement from the jig to the bottom of the keel to make sure you have the correct distance from the jig to the bottom of the keel.druid23.jpgid25.jpgconfed72a.jpgconfed7a.jpghalifax 2_edited-1.jpg
 
JosephH said:
I was noticing what looks like gaps between the futtock joints is it just the angle or are there gaps and for a reason?
Click to expand...

Those gaps you see are from the way the laser is cutting depending on the focus of the beam the cut on the back side is greater than the front side causing the cut to be on a slight angle.

there are 2 things you can do as don said just fill the gap. What I do is ever so slightly touch the end of the piece to the center of my 4 inch disk sander and that squares the ends off and removes the char. If you don't have a disk sander I have also used a square block with sand paper on one surface and just a pass or two squares up the end

when you place the parts together there is a gap on one side
 
Happy you are back Dave, a couple of questions for you, you SAID THAT FOR WHATEVER LEGAL REASONS THAT THE PLANS WERE DISTORTED, can I still take the mesurments off the plans, when I first put together theKEEL ASSEMBLY IT WAS QUITE A BIT OFF FROM THE PLANS, what do I do,....also I elected to put the KEEL ASSEMBLY IN PLACE WIT FRAMES No. A AND V(first and last whole frame) and CLAMPED THE FRAMES TO THE KEEL NOTCHES,.....then adjusted the frames to the jig, mostly pulled up from the bottom of the jig, this would not matter as the frames eventually get cut off from the jig itself,....but would it not change the mesurments to underside of CAP RAIL AND THE WALE ITSELF,,,,,,pictures forth comming, NEED YOUR HELP ON THIS AND THE CANT FRAME BEVELING,...I JUST CAN NOT SEEM TO GET THAT THROUGH MY ANCIENT MIND, looking forward to your help. Don
 
Hi everyone, showing progress to date, all whole frames complete in place, have quite a bit of fairing to do yet, and stern half frames, and stem cant frames to install20170823_202112.jpg
 
OK starting to post pictures. Showing a mistake and how I corected it,this is Frame No. 9, showing it wrong, taking it apart by using nail polish remover with 100 per cent acetone, using cotton swab on the joints and an ezato blade got it apart with no damage re-did the frame correctly, this is what happens when you are to tired to do modeling work.20170817_220045[1525].jpg
 
so now I know it is working again, here are the posts showing progress and questions. Cant frames No. 5, 6, and 7 dry fitted, is this correct once I get it into rabbit, do I need any beveling yet. Stern off center, will fix it when installing the half frames by pushing them in. Side view wit half frame No. W dry fitted. Whole frames attached to keel
whole frames installed to keel and jig.20170823_201854[1547].jpg20170823_200247[1551].jpg20170823_195055[1552].jpg20170823_195339[1557].jpg20170823_195443[1556].jpg
 
Hi Don

We need Didit to fix those as we do not have the photos. If you or Didit has the photos or you emailed me with them I could fix the posts.

Cheers
Geoff
 
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