Halve Maen (Half Moon) 1:50 Corel kit [COMPLETED BUILD]

[Ronmedge]

planking of the decks part two


Luckily I was able to buy new fine planking ( unfortunately due to Corona supplies of wood are low in stock In the Netherlands). I bought 4 mm Anegre wood. The colour matches fine with walnut. I did not knew this type of wood. According to the information on the packaging it is probably supplied bij Billing Boats.

I sanded al the edges.





The end result is much more satisfying.

 

[Ronmedge]

Not sure what happened but I've used pencil and it is very subtle, it should only give the slight appearance of an edge.View attachment 174391

I see this looks much more subtle. I looks more like oak is it? The planking of the corel kit was very pale even after Finishing with stain or oil. I did not like the colour. I even sanded every side after marking. But at the end I am now satisfied with the deck planking of my model.

 

[frankieg]

Not sure what happened but I've used pencil and it is very subtle, it should only give the slight appearance of an edge.

planking of the decks part two


Luckily I was able to buy new fine planking ( due to Corona supplies are low in stock) I bought 4 mm Anegre wood. The colour matches fine with walnut.


View attachment 174392


The end result is much more satisfying:View attachment 174393


View attachment 174395


View attachment 174394

Not heard of anegre, is that like "abachi"? which is a very nice wood, love the colour changes in it.

 

[Ronmedge]

Not sure what happened but I've used pencil and it is very subtle, it should only give the slight appearance of an edge.View attachment 174391

What ship model are you working at? It sure looks good!

 

[Ronmedge]

Assembling the handrail

Corel advises to assemble the handrail before planking the deck. I would probably not advice that. Without the handrail the edges of the deck are more accessible.

 

[Ronmedge]

Not heard of anegre, is that like "abachi"? which is a very nice wood, love the colour changes in it.

I had never heard from it either but looked good and matches with the walnut.

 

[Ronmedge]

Skirting boards

Corel advices to build the skirting boards/ plinths of 2x2 mm walnut board. This does not look satisfying, so I carved 2 mm high 0,6 mm thick boards.

 

[Ronmedge]

H

There is an excellent book on this method recently published by @Ab Hoving -- essentially a translation/elucidation of Nicolaes Witsen's work on Dutch shipbuilding from this period, published out of the Nautical Archaeology program at Texas A&M. In addition to providing detailed coverage of the Dutch shell first method, Dr. Hoving also includes some excellent images of models that followed this process. An excellent addition to the modeling library of any Dutch ship lover, even if it is a bit pricey.

Hoving, A. J., Wildeman, D., & Sleeswyk, A. W. (2012). Nicolaes Witsen and Shipbuilding in the Dutch Golden Age (A. Lemmers, Trans.). Texas A&M University Press. (https://www.amazon.com/Nicolaes-Shi...keywords=nicolae+witsen&qid=1597371968&sr=8-1)

Hello Eric,

a very fine book indeed!

 

[Heinrich]

The deck indeed looks very subtle. The wood looks very much like the Abachi that Kolderstok uses for its decks. On the Batavia, I simply love the contrast between the walnut of the hull planking and the light "yellow" of the deck.

Anegre though, is also the wood that Russian modelmaker, Falkonet, uses on its latest model - the Leudo. There are in fact two versions of the Leudo available - one with Anegri and one with Pear. On the Pear Wood version, Anegri is used for the first layer of planking.

 

[Brewbrarian]

I sanded the sides to make the colour less pronounced.

I think when you sanded the edge you may have rounded the edges a bit, thus widening the seam and actually making it more prominent. Also, if you only colour two edges on each plank, and line them up dark edge touching an undarkened edge, you can get a subtler caulking seam.

 

[Ronmedge]

I think when you sanded the edge you may have rounded the edges a bit, thus widening the seam and actually making it more prominent. Also, if you only colour two edges on each plank, and line them up dark edge touching an undarkened edge, you can get a subtler caulking seam.

Yes you are right I rounded the edges to make it more look old. But for now I am satisfied with the end result. Next time I wil use lead pencil and make a testpiece BEFORE I make the floor. Lesson learned .

 

[Ronmedge]

I finally found part 55! It was hidden in this little plastic bag.

 

[Ronmedge]

The deck indeed looks very subtle. The wood looks very much like the Abachi that Kolderstok uses for its decks. On the Batavia, I simply love the contrast between the walnut of the hull planking and the light "yellow" of the deck.

Anegre though, is also the wood that Russian modelmaker, Falkonet, uses on its latest model - the Leudo. There are in fact two versions of the Leudo available - one with Anegri and one with Pear. On the Pear Wood version, Anegri is used for the first layer of planking.

yes I love the contrast too. The colour matches nicely with the other two other colours of the hull

 

[Ronmedge]

Also found part 45 it was numbered 43, small difference but I was looking for it for a while

 

[Ronmedge]

Covering the keel.

Before covering the keel with walnut I covered the edges with a walnut strip 2x4 mm, not included in the Corel kit





This is not mentioned in the instructions, but with these strips the triplex board is not visible anymore.

 

[Heinrich]

Great stuff. It will blend in perfectly with the walnut and add value.

 

[Ronmedge]

Great stuff. It will blend in perfectly with the walnut and add value.

Absolutely

 

[Ronmedge]

The Ram


The edges of the ram I did not cover with walnut, but painted dark brown:



The colour matches well with the walnut. After covering with walnut planks it all looked satisfying

 

[Ronmedge]

The handrail

The handrail is made from very flexible wood. DO NOT EMERSE THIS IN WATER! No warning in the instructions about this. Soaking in water leads to crooked planks. It took me a lot of effort to straighten them.

I don't know what kind of wood it is, but the flexibility is remarkable:


Before

After, without heating or soaking. It dit not break


The instruction advise to assemble the entire handrail (including upper handrail no 44) without the posts (see drawing) I do not recommend this.



To my opinion this makes it very hard to level the upper handrail and it makes the construction very fragile without the posts.

I Assembled to LOWER handrail (bottom photo) first. Then I made the posts from 4x4 mm wood and placed them on the lower hand rail. After placing the posts I levelled as the post wit a file to make the topsides flush (I do not know a proper English word) THEN I assembled handrail 44 on top of these posts. The hand rail 44 does not wobble.


4x4x10 mm posts. with japanese saw

 

[Ronmedge]

Bow section

Not mentioned in the in the instructions I first laminated the bow decoration at two sides:







The direction of decorative slashes must match with those on the hull:







I then prepared the boards for assembling, glued them together an painted the upper edges dark brown:






I then mounted the boards on the ship with the help of tape:





Below the Beakhead railing is waiting to be assembled