HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Heinrich said:
Hello Everyone

Let me show you what I have been up to. After the hull frame had been assembled, I started with planking the deck (picture in my last posting). However, I wanted to knuckle down and start with some of the nitty-gritty of the build.

View attachment 316111

I started planking the lower part of the transom which is done at an angle of 45 degrees - exactly the same as on the previous build. I include tis picture for two reasons - first to show everyone what the oak looks like and secondly to show you the marks that the clamps made on the wood. Lesson learnt - I probably had the same marks on the walnut as well, but because of the much darker wood, it is far less visible. Seeing that I clamp and pin my strakes aggressively during planking, this is something that I will have to make a mental note of.

View attachment 316112
This part finished and with some light sanding the marks are starting to disappear. However, I will tell you a trick a bit later. For me it is quite a culture shock to work with such light-colored wood as opposed to the dark walnut.

Before I cut out the gunports, I first went back to the hull structure and planked the rear of bulkhead #10 and that section of the false keel that would be directly visible behind the gunports.

View attachment 316113
On WB #1 I painted this section black, which is fine, but now I wanted more. I did not just want to look into an abyss - this time I wanted a realistic wooden color and individual planks to be visible when looking through the gunports.

View attachment 316114
This also allows me the opportunity of showing you clearly what needs to be done with me changing the build to @Ab Hoving Ab's layout. A indicates the position of the next deck to be installed only much later. B shows the area which has to be built up with individual strakes planked vertically. The front side of this (when viewed from the bow) will form the front wall of the captain's cabin with two access doors. C indicates the next deck while D is the section that has to be built up above the top deck. How high this section exactly needs to protrude above the deck, is a challenge for another day.

View attachment 316117
Whilst I am focusing on this part, I would also have to install two mini-decks for the two stern cannons to stand on. Again, the green and red sections indicate where the build-up of the front wall of the captain's cabin will be.

View attachment 316118

Then came that part of the build for which I am never fully prepared. I am confident when doing this, but oh boy, just one slip and it's a case of ordering another transom from the Netherlands.

View attachment 316119
All went well however, and this then is the effect which I wanted to achieve by planking behind bulkhead #11 (the transom). With more light the wood paneling is clearly visible, and I just think that it gives a far neater, more finished effect than simply painting it black.

View attachment 316120

And with that done, the transom was glued onto the hull and wiped with a layer of shellac. And the trick? ... you all know the old PVA mixed with sawdust solution for filling up little gaps or irregularities - well, shellac and sawdust works even better!

And that is where I am tonight. On the Dutch site builders regularly refer to the "uitstraling" of oak. Translated, it means "radiance" - and tonight, I must say, I am beginning to understand what they mean. You will also notice that I have not yet cut out the opening for the rudder in the transom. On this build I will do that only much later when I am actually installing the rudder as I can then use a much smaller/custom-made opening instead of the generic one which I think is too big for the WB.
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Hi Heinrich, I see that the fiber is very thick, I would advise you to select the various strips, it is my opinion. Sorry for my opinion
 
Frank48 said:
Hi Heinrich, I see that the fiber is very thick, I would advise you to select the various strips, it is my opinion. Sorry for my opinion
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Hello Frank - it is great to see you back on the forum - I hope that you will post pictures of the Italian championship! My friend, please do not apologize for any comment - your opinion is very important to me. As I said to Ron, I did not select the transom's strips beforehand, but I will do that from now on. The grain is indeed very lively, but the photo also exaggerates it. In real life, the transom is only 10.5cm high and 5.5 cm wide, so in reality it looks a lot more uniform than on the macro-closeups.
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Frank - it is great to see you back on the forum - I hope that you will post pictures of the Italian championship! My friend, please do not apologize for any comment - your opinion is very important to me. As I said to Ron, I did not select the transom's strips beforehand, but I will do that from now on. The grain is indeed very lively, but the photo also exaggerates it. In real life, the transom is only 10.5cm high and 5.5 cm wide, so in reality it looks a lot more uniform than on the macro-closeups.
Click to expand...
Thanks for answering me
 
Heinrich said:
View attachment 316119
Click to expand...
It could very well be my eyes deceiving me or the angle your camera made when you took this picture, but to me it looks like the gunports are not symmetrical.
Again, impressive build, Heinrich!

Heinrich said:
And with that done, the transom was glued onto the hull and wiped with a layer of shellac. And the trick? ... you all know the old PVA mixed with sawdust solution for filling up little gaps or irregularities - well, shellac and sawdust works even better!
Click to expand...
Nice tip , Heinrich!
 
RDN1954 said:
It could very well be my eyes deceiving me or the angle your camera made when you took this picture, but to me it looks like the gunports are not symmetrical.
Again, impressive build, Heinrich!


Nice tip , Heinrich!
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Thank you, Johan. You made me grab a ruler and go double check ROTF. Funny enough I have discovered the same thing on WB #1 - on pictures it does look like the ports are either not aligned with each other or that they are offset - whilst they are perfectly aligned and symmetrical. I think the fact that mounted on the ship they sit at quite an acute angle., has a lot to do with that. On WB #2, the woodgrain that doesn't have a uniform pattern, also adds to the issue.
 
On the clamping marks, have you tried wetting them with a few drops of water? Just where the marks are. It usually causes the wood to swell back up where it was crushed and can reduce the amount of sanding required.

I think the curvature of the hulls combined with the fisheye effect of some camera lenses may be why the ports don't look straight?

I haven't decided which wood I like best, they both look outstanding!

Glenn
 
Heinrich said:
Thank you, Johan. You made me grab a ruler and go double check ROTF. Funny enough I have discovered the same thing on WB #1 - on pictures it does look like the ports are either not aligned with each other or that they are offset - whilst they are perfectly aligned and symmetrical. I think the fact that mounted on the ship they sit at quite an acute angle., has a lot to do with that. On WB #2, the woodgrain that doesn't have a uniform pattern, also adds to the issue.
Click to expand...
I know that sinking feeling only too well. Fortunately this was a "storm in een glas water".
I think it was Peter (@Peter Voogt ) who explained lens distortion, but whenever I see something like this in a picture, it makes me scramble for a ruler,..
 
Heinrich said:
I purposely did not pre-select any planks - I just used them as they came out of the box. I said from the beginning that the oak will not yield as "smooth" a look as the walnut, but it will be a lot livelier! :)
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I like the randomness of the planks. It adds another element of interest to your build and I think your word “livelier” is well chosen. That grain pops.
 
GAStan said:
On the clamping marks, have you tried wetting them with a few drops of water? Just where the marks are. It usually causes the wood to swell back up where it was crushed and can reduce the amount of sanding required.

I think the curvature of the hulls combined with the fisheye effect of some camera lenses may be why the ports don't look straight?

I haven't decided which wood I like best, they both look outstanding!

Glenn
Click to expand...

I agree with Glenn, carefully applying very small localized drops of water on the indentation will help. It’s best to elevate the part so that it lies horizontally. Apply the water in and around the “dent” and let it sit and evaporate. Repeat as necessary but appreciate it mostly works for minor dings and, of course, the type of wood in question.

I also use a very fine hypodermic needle and inject the water into the trough of the dent to lift the fibres.
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Everyone

Let me show you what I have been up to. After the hull frame had been assembled, I started with planking the deck (picture in my last posting). However, I wanted to knuckle down and start with some of the nitty-gritty of the build.

View attachment 316111

I started planking the lower part of the transom which is done at an angle of 45 degrees - exactly the same as on the previous build. I include tis picture for two reasons - first to show everyone what the oak looks like and secondly to show you the marks that the clamps made on the wood. Lesson learnt - I probably had the same marks on the walnut as well, but because of the much darker wood, it is far less visible. Seeing that I clamp and pin my strakes aggressively during planking, this is something that I will have to make a mental note of.

View attachment 316112
This part finished and with some light sanding the marks are starting to disappear. However, I will tell you a trick a bit later. For me it is quite a culture shock to work with such light-colored wood as opposed to the dark walnut.

Before I cut out the gunports, I first went back to the hull structure and planked the rear of bulkhead #10 and that section of the false keel that would be directly visible behind the gunports.

View attachment 316113
On WB #1 I painted this section black, which is fine, but now I wanted more. I did not just want to look into an abyss - this time I wanted a realistic wooden color and individual planks to be visible when looking through the gunports.

View attachment 316114
This also allows me the opportunity of showing you clearly what needs to be done with me changing the build to @Ab Hoving Ab's layout. A indicates the position of the next deck to be installed only much later. B shows the area which has to be built up with individual strakes planked vertically. The front side of this (when viewed from the bow) will form the front wall of the captain's cabin with two access doors. C indicates the next deck while D is the section that has to be built up above the top deck. How high this section exactly needs to protrude above the deck, is a challenge for another day.

View attachment 316117
Whilst I am focusing on this part, I would also have to install two mini-decks for the two stern cannons to stand on. Again, the green and red sections indicate where the build-up of the front wall of the captain's cabin will be.

View attachment 316118

Then came that part of the build for which I am never fully prepared. I am confident when doing this, but oh boy, just one slip and it's a case of ordering another transom from the Netherlands.

View attachment 316119
All went well however, and this then is the effect which I wanted to achieve by planking behind bulkhead #11 (the transom). With more light the wood paneling is clearly visible, and I just think that it gives a far neater, more finished effect than simply painting it black.

View attachment 316120

And with that done, the transom was glued onto the hull and wiped with a layer of shellac. And the trick? ... you all know the old PVA mixed with sawdust solution for filling up little gaps or irregularities - well, shellac and sawdust works even better!

And that is where I am tonight. On the Dutch site builders regularly refer to the "uitstraling" of oak. Translated, it means "radiance" - and tonight, I must say, I am beginning to understand what they mean. You will also notice that I have not yet cut out the opening for the rudder in the transom. On this build I will do that only much later when I am actually installing the rudder as I can then use a much smaller/custom-made opening instead of the generic one which I think is too big for the WB.
Click to expand...
Now this is very interesting Heinrich. I'm now really curious to see how the side planking interacts with what you have going on the stern. This is going to turn into a real work of art. Any form of walnut trim, whether it be railing, or whalers, toe boards etc. would really pop against the oak.
 
GAStan said:
On the clamping marks, have you tried wetting them with a few drops of water? Just where the marks are. It usually causes the wood to swell back up where it was crushed and can reduce the amount of sanding required.

I think the curvature of the hulls combined with the fisheye effect of some camera lenses may be why the ports don't look straight?

I haven't decided which wood I like best, they both look outstanding!

Glenn
Click to expand...
Thank you for that great advice, Glenn! This is something completely new to me which I had been totally unaware of. I will most certainly try that out when the need arises - thanks again!

As far as the favorite wood goes - my jury is also still deciding. I think one will only be able to make a call when the actual bending, shaping and planking start. I definitely prefer the walnut when it comes to cutting the wood.
 
RogerD said:
I agree with Glenn, carefully applying very small localized drops of water on the indentation will help. It’s best to elevate the part so that it lies horizontally. Apply the water in and around the “dent” and let it sit and evaporate. Repeat as necessary but appreciate it mostly works for minor dings and, of course, the type of wood in question.

I also use a very fine hypodermic needle and inject the water into the trough of the dent to lift the fibres.
Click to expand...
Thank you very much Roger - that is a great tip and is one that I was totally unaware of. I am sure I will still be using that a lot when it comes to the planking. Thumbsup
 
Daniel20 said:
Now this is very interesting Heinrich. I'm now really curious to see how the side planking interacts with what you have going on the stern. This is going to turn into a real work of art. Any form of walnut trim, whether it be railing, or whalers, toe boards etc. would really pop against the oak.
Click to expand...
Like I mentioned earlier, Daniel - the woodgrain effect is greatly exaggerated by the close-ups. In reality it is far less pronounced than what is shown up on the pictures. I agree - the walnut and oak combination should make for some really interesting effects (to be used sparingly though :)) and will allow for some "painting" with wood.
 
Heinrich said:
Bedankt voor dat goede advies, Glenn! Dit is iets compleet nieuws voor mij waarvan ik me totaal niet bewust was. Ik zal dat zeker uitproberen wanneer de behoefte zich voordoet - nogmaals bedankt!

Wat het favoriete hout betreft - mijn jury is ook nog steeds aan het beslissen. Ik denk dat men pas kan bellen als het eigenlijke buigen, vormen en planken begint. Ik geef absoluut de voorkeur aan de walnoot als het gaat om het snijden van het hout.
Click to expand...
Een stukje resthout tussen het materiaal en de klemmen voorkomt dit probleem...

20220627_151009_bewerkt-1.jpg
 
Heinrich said:
Hello Everyone

Let me show you what I have been up to. After the hull frame had been assembled, I started with planking the deck (picture in my last posting). However, I wanted to knuckle down and start with some of the nitty-gritty of the build.

View attachment 316111

I started planking the lower part of the transom which is done at an angle of 45 degrees - exactly the same as on the previous build. I include tis picture for two reasons - first to show everyone what the oak looks like and secondly to show you the marks that the clamps made on the wood. Lesson learnt - I probably had the same marks on the walnut as well, but because of the much darker wood, it is far less visible. Seeing that I clamp and pin my strakes aggressively during planking, this is something that I will have to make a mental note of.

View attachment 316112
This part finished and with some light sanding the marks are starting to disappear. However, I will tell you a trick a bit later. For me it is quite a culture shock to work with such light-colored wood as opposed to the dark walnut.

Before I cut out the gunports, I first went back to the hull structure and planked the rear of bulkhead #10 and that section of the false keel that would be directly visible behind the gunports.

View attachment 316113
On WB #1 I painted this section black, which is fine, but now I wanted more. I did not just want to look into an abyss - this time I wanted a realistic wooden color and individual planks to be visible when looking through the gunports.

View attachment 316114
This also allows me the opportunity of showing you clearly what needs to be done with me changing the build to @Ab Hoving Ab's layout. A indicates the position of the next deck to be installed only much later. B shows the area which has to be built up with individual strakes planked vertically. The front side of this (when viewed from the bow) will form the front wall of the captain's cabin with two access doors. C indicates the next deck while D is the section that has to be built up above the top deck. How high this section exactly needs to protrude above the deck, is a challenge for another day.

View attachment 316117
Whilst I am focusing on this part, I would also have to install two mini-decks for the two stern cannons to stand on. Again, the green and red sections indicate where the build-up of the front wall of the captain's cabin will be.

View attachment 316118

Then came that part of the build for which I am never fully prepared. I am confident when doing this, but oh boy, just one slip and it's a case of ordering another transom from the Netherlands.

View attachment 316119
All went well however, and this then is the effect which I wanted to achieve by planking behind bulkhead #11 (the transom). With more light the wood paneling is clearly visible, and I just think that it gives a far neater, more finished effect than simply painting it black.

View attachment 316120

And with that done, the transom was glued onto the hull and wiped with a layer of shellac. And the trick? ... you all know the old PVA mixed with sawdust solution for filling up little gaps or irregularities - well, shellac and sawdust works even better!

And that is where I am tonight. On the Dutch site builders regularly refer to the "uitstraling" of oak. Translated, it means "radiance" - and tonight, I must say, I am beginning to understand what they mean. You will also notice that I have not yet cut out the opening for the rudder in the transom. On this build I will do that only much later when I am actually installing the rudder as I can then use a much smaller/custom-made opening instead of the generic one which I think is too big for the WB.
Click to expand...
Good morning Heinrich. I love the oak. I sometimes find that some wood,as beautiful as it is ,(pear and boxwood- walnut to a degree) make the ship look like a model. (Paradox I know)- I think you know what I mean.Your oak is unique and brilliant. I’m exited to see what she looks like once the hull planking is complete. I’m with Daniel re the contrast with walnut (if you are going to use some). Cheers Grant
 
pietsan said:
Een stukje resthout tussen het materiaal en de klemmen voorkomt dit probleem...

View attachment 316258
Click to expand...
Piet wrote: A piece of scrap wood between the material and the clamps prevents this problem...

Hallo Piet. Jij hebt helemaal gelijk en het is iets dat ik heel goed ken en ook in het verleden heb gebruikt. Hier lag de spiegel echter perfect plat op een houten bouwplank en waren de klemmen plat en taps aangebracht - dus ik dacht eerlijk gezegd niet dat het nodig zou zijn. Het laat alleen maar zien dat je nooit te voorzichtig kunt zijn.

Hello Piet. You are absolutely right and it is something that I know very well and have used in the past too. Here though, the transom was lying perfectly flat on a wooden building board and the clamps were applied flat and square - so I honestly didn't think that it would be necessary. It just shows you can never be too careful.
 
Heinrich said:
Piet wrote: A piece of scrap wood between the material and the clamps prevents this problem...

Hallo Piet. Jij hebt helemaal gelijk en het is iets dat ik heel goed ken en ook in het verleden heb gebruikt. Hier lag de spiegel echter perfect plat op een houten bouwplank en waren de klemmen plat en taps aangebracht - dus ik dacht eerlijk gezegd niet dat het nodig zou zijn. Het laat alleen maar zien dat je nooit te voorzichtig kunt zijn.

Hello Piet. You are absolutely right and it is something that I know very well and have used in the past too. Here though, the transom was lying perfectly flat on a wooden building board and the clamps were applied flat and square - so I honestly didn't think that it would be necessary. It just shows you can never be too careful.
Click to expand...
Heinrich, see mail
 
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