HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

Choices will be made and have been made Johan. :) Stern keel first tomorrow morning. I need daylight for that.
I don't doubt that for a second; some planning ahead is a prerequisite, so is decision making.
Daylight you say? That's something we're in short supply off lately; the dark days before Christmas.
 
I don't doubt that for a second; some planning ahead is a prerequisite, so is decision making.
Daylight you say? That's something we're in short supply off lately; the dark days before Christmas.
Yes Johan. In this instance, I will have to so some calculations, planning and plenty of test fits. I would like to give it a go, but if it doesn't work out in the end I can always follow @dockattner Paul's advice by either leaving the spaces empty, closing them with the lids or have one lid open and one closed - something to that effect.

My eye sight isn't bad, but my lighting is. With the task ahead on the stern piece of the keel I can't afford shadows, Here it is also getting dark sooner each day, but from 08H00 to 15H00, we still have some good light - on a nice day of course.
 
Yes Johan. In this instance, I will have to so some calculations, planning and plenty of test fits. I would like to give it a go, but if it doesn't work out in the end I can always follow @dockattner Paul's advice by either leaving the spaces empty, closing them with the lids or have one lid open and one closed - something to that effect.
I imagine it wouldn't even look half bad if you just close the two aft ports. But essentially you have a plan to establish the feasibility of your ideas and based on the tests you plan you'll decide on the preferred solution. Absolutely nothing wrong with that.
 
At least you guys can have a good look at my mistakes and make mental notes before the time! :)
A couple of years back I obtained a pilot's license. During training I listened carefully to the stories of my fellow aviators and the errors they made, thinking that I could learn from their mistakes and not repeating them... I repeated a lot of them and am fortunate enough to tell the tale. So, yes I'm taking a good look, simultaneously thinking which mistakes (if not all) I'll be making after I opened my Christmas present... :D
 
I imagine it wouldn't even look half bad if you just close the two aft ports. But essentially you have a plan to establish the feasibility of your ideas and based on the tests you plan you'll decide on the preferred solution. Absolutely nothing wrong with that.
Johan you are spot on. But this is why I jokingly said to @Peter Voogt that he will plan properly BEFORE he does something (therefore careful consideration). In my case, I cut out the ports without even having had a look at either cannon or carriage (thus coincidence)! :D But the coincidence might just work. The WB's carriages are smaller than the Haarlem's, but instead of the 32 mm cannons that I used on the Haarlem, I ordered 40mm cannons for the WB. They may just be long enough to make this venture work!
 
A couple of years back I obtained a pilot's license. During training I listened carefully to the stories of my fellow aviators and the errors they made, thinking that I could learn from their mistakes and not repeating them... I repeated a lot of them and am fortunate enough to tell the tale. So, yes I'm taking a good look, simultaneously thinking which mistakes (if not all) I'll be making after I opened my Christmas present... :D
"Mistakes" are inevitable - it's how we work around them, that makes this hobby so exciting!
 
Quick test fit: The cannons are more than long enough!!! With a size like that, they have to be! With the gun carriage moved back as far as it can go, the cannon still easily protrude through the gun port. And don't laugh at my trunnion nail!

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Good morning / afternoon everyone! :)

What a wonderful response to the Willem Barentsz build log yesterday – just incredible – THANK YOU ALL!

Back at the building board sees the focus on the keel – and more in particular – on the stern part of the keel assembly. Many builders place this after the hull fairing has been done, but I chose otherwise and I will tell you why. As things now stand, the stern assembly (Frame #11) and associated parts only fit onto a half slot (indicated by the yellow arrow).

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Photograph: @pietsan Piet Sanders

Since hull fairing takes place from the bow towards the stern and consists of a motion whereby you are constantly pushing against the bulkhead from the front, I was just not comfortable with this. I would have been much happier with the stern keel locking Frame #11 also from the back. In all honesty – my concern is probably completely unfounded, but that’s just me.

The keel assembly consists of four parts which are presented in a beautiful walnut sheet – 7mm thick.

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Apart from the keel components, the sheet also contains the rudder, beakhead (not bowsprit like I put in the description) and a “Knecht” – no idea what that is in English.

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Here you can the see the keel assembly just placed in position. The centre keel at the bottom actually consists of two parts which are connected via a scarph joint.

However, before we can just slap on the stern keel onto the frame, there is something to keep in mind when building a Dutch ship.

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When it comes to the planking, three strakes at the bottom do not stop dead against the stern keel, but actually continue right to the outer edge of the stern. This includes the garboard strake – the lowest strake right at the bottom which butts up against the centre keel - and the two strakes directly above it.

That means that the stern part of the keel needs to receive special attention. These two brilliant photographs by @pietsan Piet Sanders explains perfectly what needs to happen – far better than what I can attempt to describe.

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Just look at the perfection of Piet’s work - the sharpness of his filing line, how smoothly the reworked section is finished and the perfect fit of the stern piece onto onto the face of Frame #11.

So that is the theory – now it's up to yours truly to go and do it!

Until a little later!
 
Hello Heinrich.Hope you are doing super well. As always informative. I am intrigued why the Dutch extended these lower planks. The Dutch must had some reasoning behind this. Unique to Dutch ships?
Hello Grant. I am busy in the shipyard so I'm doing well!. Let me find out for you but maybe in the meanwhile, some experts on the Dutch ships can chip in.
 
So earlier, I showed you @pietsan Piet's brilliant work on mounting the stern keel section. Now it was my turn.

The first thing I did was to remove the 12mm wood of 1mm depth at the bottom of the keel to provide for the three bottom strakes as in @pietsan Piet's photograph below.

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I know I have posted this picture earlier as well, but I cannot stress enough the importance of doing this correctly.

Secondly, I started off by holding the stern section as firmly as I could to the hull and then drilling two 0.8mm holes through the keel and into the hull. Great care has to be taken here as you cannot clamp anything. Remember the stern section is 7mm in width and the hull frame is 5mm. When I checked that all was good, I then enlarged the drill bit to 1mm and did the same by drilling the 1mm hole through both the stern and into the hull. I then removed the stern section and finally enlarged the two holes in the stern to 2mm. The holes in the hull were left at 1mm. Lastly I simply allied PVA glue to the stern and placed it into position - applying finger pressure only for about 5 minutes. So good was the fit that it remained stuck into position. It was left untouched to dry for 3 hours.

The picture below summarizes all of the above work.

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After 3 hours I cut two beech wood toothpicks to the correct length, immersed them in PVA glue and hammered them home - through the stern into the hull. I used a punch to make sure that they were countersunk by approximately 0.5mm each. The holes were then filled with PVA glue and rubbed and pressed my wood dust which I had collected from the sanding of the stern into the holes. After about half an hour, I just sanded the surface smooth with 360 grit sandpaper.

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The three strakes of wood are just pressed against each other to show you what the effect is of what we are after. You can't really get it better than that and these are super-macro close-ups.

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The notch in the stern ensures an excellent fit between the stern and Frame #11. (Starboard Side)

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Fitment on Port Side.

And finally ... a normal macro-close-up of the overview.

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I am very happy that this part is done, but I created a lot of extra work for myself by planking the stern section with 1.5mm planks instead of the prescribed 1mm. Read those instructions! :)

That is all for tonight - now I can relax and check out all the wonderful builds on SOS. Until tomorrow when I will play with small decks, gun ports and big cannons, its cheers for now.
 
@GrantTyler Ok Grant - courtesy of our resident expert on Dutch ships - mind you, I think he is an expert on all ships - @Maarten has given you your answer. I quote him verbatim:

This is to reinforce the construction of the stern.

Dutch ships have far less deadwood in stern and stem then the English due to their flat bottom. This is creating a solid sandwich construction around the joint of the stern pist to the keel. You see it on most Dutch builds but certainly not all, see below the Pinas from Den Helder.

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Here you see the bottom strakes ending at the stern and not extending all the way through.

Thank you so much for that question Grant. As a result of it, I also know more than before!:D
 
It is noteworthy that all this exploration was going on while the Dutch we're winning their independence from the Spanish Empire. The Eighty Year War was originally a war for religious freedom that morphed into a war for Dutch independence which was confirmed by the Treaty of Westphalia in1648 that also ended the Thirty Years War. The Dutch experience was strikingly similar to that of the United States two hundred years later.
 
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