HIGH HOPES, WILD MEN AND THE DEVIL’S JAW - Willem Barentsz Kolderstok 1:50

[Heinrich]

Great to see that the new shipyard has opened Heinrich, my friend.
I also found your excellent bookreview from the book of Willem Barents, i have also been reading a bit in the book, and i love it. You nailed it with your review
By the way, i love the coins of the Blue Nose

Hello My Dear Friend and welcome to the new shipyard. You are so right Peter - the Willem Barentsz book is absolutely amazing. It's incredible to think that they had to take in extra ballast to compensate for the food and water that the crew ate and drank. Fascinating! I am very glad that you enjoyed the book review - the Bluenose coins have a special place in the display area!

 

[Heinrich]

Hello Dear Friends

Tonight, I am excited about this posting, because for the first time in a long while, it feels like I have made tangible progress.

I have finished planking the inner and outer sides of the front canopy frames. If you look at the following picture you can clearly see (marked in red), the first inner planking between the hull bulwarks and the outer sides of the frame.



The picture below shows the “sandwich” construction that @pietsan Piet and I have opted for. The upshot of this is that the unsightly triplex frame is entirely covered with walnut planking except for the part in which the notches are cut. Once the lengthwise and crosswise roof beams are in place and the walnut borders have been added, none of that will be visible.



You will notice that I have done the outer planking so that it extends ever so slightly above the roof beam notches – by 1.5mm exactly.

The reason for this was two-fold. First, I have created another contact surface for the roof beams for when they are glued into the notches. Instead of just having contact surfaces underneath the beam and on its sides, the end that butts-up against the outer planking provides an additional gluing surface.


Photograph: Piet Sanders

Second, I am hoping that when I place the roof border (green area) on top of the room beams the extra height of my side planking (yellow) will be flush with the border that will be placed around the roof which is 1.5mm walnut. (Please note that this is Piet's model - I am not close to having winches and belaying racks installed )



Now it was time to do something that I really looked forward to – installing the roof beams (picture above). Because the side frames were bent to follow a curved line, the roof beams go into the notches at an angle, which means a very tight fit. I did not want to file too much material away from the roof beams as the tighter the fit, the more solid the whole construction. After they had been brought to size, the roof beams were stained with two coats of water-based Dark Oak. Glue was applied to the beam-ends and they were carefully tapped into position using my regular-sized (and heavy) hammer.

Comparing my build to Piet’s version (picture below), the only difference is that he first placed the roof beams BEFORE adding the top outer plank on the side ...


Photograph: Piet Sanders

... while on my build, I just did it the other way around.



Note that I am not even going to bother with sanding the outer planking, as there is still the additional “finishing” layer of planks that will go over that.

I am very happy with how this turned out. This was a part of the build which had me concerned beforehand, but I need not have been. As soon as I started the actual work and logic came into play, it became obvious what needed to be done and how it was supposed to be done. It goes without saying that Piet's build log and @Kolderstok Hans's comments were indispensable.

And this is how she looks tonight with her front canopy in place.



Three-quarter view from the rear.



From the top.



And three-quarter view from the front.

That is all for tonight and far as building goes, probably for the week. Thank you all for the most kind comments, the support, the likes, the suggestions, the questions and just for following along and saying hello. Enjoy your shipbuilding, cherish your loved ones and stay safe!

 

[GrantTyler]

Hello Dear Friends

Tonight, I am excited about this posting, because for the first time in a long while, it feels like I have made tangible progress.

I have finished planking the inner and outer sides of the front canopy frames. If you look at the following picture you can clearly see (marked in red), the first inner planking between the hull bulwarks and the outer sides of the frame.

View attachment 297352

The picture below shows the “sandwich” construction that @pietsan Piet and I have opted for. The upshot of this is that the unsightly triplex frame is entirely covered with walnut planking except for the part in which the notches are cut. Once the lengthwise and crosswise roof beams are in place and the walnut borders have been added, none of that will be visible.

View attachment 297353

You will notice that I have done the outer planking so that it extends ever so slightly above the roof beam notches – by 1.5mm exactly.

The reason for this was two-fold. First, I have created another contact surface for the roof beams for when they are glued into the notches. Instead of just having contact surfaces underneath the beam and on its sides, the end that butts-up against the outer planking provides an additional gluing surface.

View attachment 297354
Photograph: Piet Sanders

Second, I am hoping that when I place the roof border (green area) on top of the room beams the extra height of my side planking (yellow) will be flush with the border that will be placed around the roof which is 1.5mm walnut. (Please note that this is Piet's model - I am not close to having winches and belaying racks installed )

View attachment 297355

Now it was time to do something that I really looked forward to – installing the roof beams (picture above). Because the side frames were bent to follow a curved line, the roof beams go into the notches at an angle, which means a very tight fit. I did not want to file too much material away from the roof beams as the tighter the fit, the more solid the whole construction. After they had been brought to size, the roof beams were stained with two coats of water-based Dark Oak. Glue was applied to the beam-ends and they were carefully tapped into position using my regular-sized (and heavy) hammer.

Comparing my build to Piet’s version (picture below), the only difference is that he first placed the roof beams BEFORE adding the top outer plank on the side ...

View attachment 297358
Photograph: Piet Sanders

... while on my build, I just did it the other way around.

View attachment 297359

Note that I am not even going to bother with sanding the outer planking, as there is still the additional “finishing” layer of planks that will go over that.

I am very happy with how this turned out. This was a part of the build which had me concerned beforehand, but I need not have been. As soon as I started the actual work and logic came into play, it became obvious what needed to be done and how it was supposed to be done. It goes without saying that Piet's build log and @Kolderstok Hans's comments were indispensable.

And this is how she looks tonight with her front canopy in place.

View attachment 297380

Three-quarter view from the rear.

View attachment 297381

From the top.

View attachment 297383

And three-quarter view from the front.

That is all for tonight and far as building goes, probably for the week. Thank you all for the most kind comments, the support, the likes, the suggestions, the questions and just for following along and saying hello. Enjoy your shipbuilding, cherish your loved ones and stay safe!

Good morning Heinrich. I’ve said it before however worth repeating- it is so good to see you building your WB again. Magnificent work here. You must be truly happy with this little ship and loving building her. Cheers Grant

 

[Heinrich]

Thank you very much Grant! This little ship is a constant source of pleasure to me. It is difficult to put it into words, but it is already far more than just a build to me. Cheers my friend!

 

[Pathfinder65]

Excellent Heinrich. Another great explanation of “why and how” your build proceeds. That little ship is really taking shape.

 

[Heinrich]

Excellent Heinrich. Another great explanation of “why and how” your build proceeds. That little ship is really taking shape.

Thank you Jan. This part of the build was a bit like a surprise packet. You only know what the next move will be or needs to be, once you have taken the first step - and from there it just compounds. Even now I don't know whether my outer-planking layer will be enough to position the finishing planks that go on top of that in the correct position. It may be necessary to first plank another layer, before the finishing layer goes on.



In other words, does the outer planking (yellow section) not still sit too deep for a single-layer planking on top of that to finish off the assembly nicely - or does it still require a second layer of outer planking?

 

[Pathfinder65]

You had mentioned before about the width of the deck/hull in that area and the curvature. You added planking to compensate. Is that the cause for your concern?

 

[Heinrich]

You had mentioned before about the width of the deck/hull in that area and the curvature. You added planking to compensate. Is that the cause for your concern?

That's a difficult one Jan. The instructions tell you to shape the frame along side the curvature (that is no problem) and then glue it to the inside of the bulwarks.



This is pretty simple so no issue here. BUT three WB builders (myself included) have experienced that when they do this, the front roofbeam that has to fit into notches in frames on either side of the bulwarks, is then too short. One of those builders is Piet Sanders. Hans said that the frames need to lean inwards - my concern with that, is how do you then glue the frames solidly to the bulwarks if you do not have a full contact area between frame and bulwarks? The only way that you can obtain that is by gluing it a perfectly flat in an upright position against the bulwarks. That is what I have done, that is what Piet has done and that is what Ton Freubelaer has done. But then ... the roof beam is too short.

So what Piet has done is to glue another inside layer of planks to the bulwarks first, before gluing the frames to the extra layer. This will bring the two frames 3mm closer to each other. But on Piet's build, even that was not enough - he had to move the whole assembly slightly forward (to the narrower stern part of the hull) to get the roof beam to fit.


This illustration shows the inner layer in yellow that Piet and I have first added between the hull bulwarks and the frames. On top of the yellow section, I have glued the outer planking.

My question now is whether that one layer of outer planking is enough to get the finishing layer to sit properly on the top railing, or if I need a second layer. Only one way to find out - trial and error.

Please note that this is by no means criticism directed at the kit. Each builder builds differently and when you are facing a hull shape which has such a pronounced curvature as the Willem Barentsz, variances in builds are likely to occur. The reason why I am spending time on this is to make it easier for prospective builders like you and Ron, to be aware of what might happen and give you some ideas of how to deal with it.

 

[Pathfinder65]

That is very interesting. Makes one wonder if a slight inner curve to bulwark would also solve the problem.



I think a lot will depend on how the hull planking ends up in that area.

 

[Heinrich]

That is very interesting. Makes one wonder if a slight inner curve to bulwark would also solve the problem.

View attachment 297648

I think a lot will depend on how the hull planking ends up in that area.

Jan you wont be able to do an inner curve once the planking has been done. Remember, you already have two layers of planks before you even start the front canopy construction. Those bulwarks - and indeed the whole ship - gives a new meaning to Fort Know, so you won't be able to budge those bulwarks in any way. But you are 100% right - the individual builder's way of reading the hull and subsequently doing the planking is of paramount importance there! That is what makes this ship such a fascinating build.

In the Willem Barentsz book, I can also assure that you according to Ab Hoving, the WB was a very different kind of ship compared to anything that he had researched up to that point. It is estimated that this little ship could muster a top speed of 8 knots - considerably higher than that of the much bigger and more "modern" spiegelretourschepen or man-o-wars of fifty years later.

 

[RDN1954]

That's a difficult one Jan. The instructions tell you to shape the frame along side the curvature (that is no problem) and then glue it to the inside of the bulwarks.

View attachment 297644

This is pretty simple so no issue here. BUT three WB builders (myself included) have experienced that when they do this, the front roofbeam that has to fit into notches in frames on either side of the bulwarks, is then too short. One of those builders is Piet Sanders. Hans said that the frames need to lean inwards - my concern with that, is how do you then glue the frames solidly to the bulwarks if you do not have a full contact area between frame and bulwarks? The only way that you can obtain that is by gluing it a perfectly flat in an upright position against the bulwarks. That is what I have done, that is what Piet has done and that is what Ton Freubelaer has done. But then ... the roof beam is too short.

So what Piet has done is to glue another inside layer of planks to the bulwarks first, before gluing the frames to the extra layer. This will bring the two frames 3mm closer to each other. But on Piet's build, even that was not enough - he had to move the whole assembly slightly forward (to the narrower stern part of the hull) to get the roof beam to fit.

View attachment 297645
This illustration shows the inner layer in yellow that Piet and I have first added between the hull bulwarks and the frames. On top of the yellow section, I have glued the outer planking.

My question now is whether that one layer of outer planking is enough to get the finishing layer to sit properly on the top railing, or if I need a second layer. Only one way to find out - trial and error.

Please note that this is by no means criticism directed at the kit. Each builder builds differently and when you are facing a hull shape which has such a pronounced curvature as the Willem Barentsz, variances in builds are likely to occur. The reason why I am spending time on this is to make it easier for prospective builders like you and Ron, to be aware of what might happen and give you some ideas of how to deal with it.

Hello Heinrich,
When looking at the forward canopy structure, I can't help but think it's too "bulky". Neither does it seem to make sense. I would expect the frames of the canopy to be aligned with the frames of the hull, much like apparently the aft canopy structure. That would also imply the outer planking of the canopy should be more in line with the hull planking. It almost appears to me that you (and the others before you) somehow compensate for roofbeams which are possibly too short.
I'm not knowledgeable enough to assess whether or not what's in the kit is historically correct, it's just that to my eyes the fwd canopy doesn't look to be in balance with the rest of the structure.
No offense to anyone involved...
Kind regards,
Johan

 

[Uwek]

I would like to agree here with Johan - something is looking strange and not fitting

please check the form of the side walls!
I think you made them vertical -> with this the beams on top are too short.

when we take a look at other models you can see that the walls are following directly the form of the framing (like Johan mentioned) and they are getting inwards, so the roof has a smaller width than the deck

another model from the web

(btw: I have the feeling, that the deck beams have a smaller width than on your model - you have plywood and these are looking like normal timber)



In the following in red are the direction of the side walls shown - green would be the real width of the roof (length of deck beams) and blue is the width of the deck at the rails - you can see green is much shorter than blue



Just an idea of some things what you could check on your model

 

[Pathfinder65]

Hmm, those are interesting comments. I think that was what I was trying to show in my graphic.

Heinrich as you noted each build ends with the same shape depending on the builders approach.

 

[Heinrich]

Hello Heinrich,
When looking at the forward canopy structure, I can't help but think it's too "bulky". Neither does it seem to make sense. I would expect the frames of the canopy to be aligned with the frames of the hull, much like apparently the aft canopy structure. That would also imply the outer planking of the canopy should be more in line with the hull planking. It almost appears to me that you (and the others before you) somehow compensate for roofbeams which are possibly too short.
I'm not knowledgeable enough to assess whether or not what's in the kit is historically correct, it's just that to my eyes the fwd canopy doesn't look to be in balance with the rest of the structure.
No offense to anyone involved...
Kind regards,
Johan

Hello Johan. Many many thanks for looking along and for offering your insight.

You mention:

1. I would expect the frames of the canopy to be aligned with the frames of the hull ...
2. That would also imply the outer planking of the canopy should be more in line with the hull planking.

On both counts you are 100% correct - BUT remember, on my model you are looking at a canopy that is so far less than 50% complete. What I have called "outer" planking is in fact not the outer planking of the canopy - it is merely the outer planking of the frames. There is still a shaped, final layer of planking that needs to go on top of that.



The yellow indicates the final shape of the real outer planking layer and because they will go on top of the bulwarks, they will automatically follow the lines of the hull. This photograph below shows exactly what I mean.


Photograph: Piet Sanders

The yellow line indicates the planking of the frames like I have done now. So what you are looking at on my model at this stage, is only the inner structure before the final planking layer is added. I hope this explains better what I was trying to show.

However, your observations were spot on and are highly appreciated. It made me rethink the whole process and play it over in my mind once again - at twenty to six in the morning.

And I assure you, no offense taken! This is exactly what I want on my build log - input and participation - in fact, anything that can help me and future builders of this magnificent ship!

 

[Heinrich]

I would like to agree here with Johan - something is looking strange and not fitting

please check the form of the side walls!
I think you made them vertical -> with this the beams on top are too short.

when we take a look at other models you can see that the walls are following directly the form of the framing (like Johan mentioned) and they are getting inwards, so the roof has a smaller width than the deck

another model from the web
View attachment 297671
(btw: I have the feeling, that the deck beams have a smaller width than on your model - you have plywood and these are looking like normal timber)

View attachment 297672

In the following in red are the direction of the side walls shown - green would be the real width of the roof (length of deck beams) and blue is the width of the deck at the rails - you can see green is much shorter than blue

View attachment 297670

Just an idea of some things what you could check on your model

Dear Uwe. It is absolutely wonderful to have you participate actively in this build log. You have a wealth of experience and knowledge and I cherish your inputs.

To start with, please see my post in reply to @RDN1954 Johan, that I have just made. My canopy is not yet nearly complete. By means of illustration: If you look at the pictures of Piet's build, you will see that the frames are perfectly upright - they do not slant inwards or lean outwards - this is what I was trying to achieve. But what makes my pictures up to this point misleading is the fact that the REAL outer layer of planking has not yet been been done. I agree that it now looks like something which is slapped on at the bow, and without context to the rest of the ship.







As you van see the canopy is basically square with perfectly straight sides - not leaning inwards or sloping outwards.

I trust that these pictures explain the final assembly and what it is supposed to look like better.

Many thanks for your input - it is sincerely appreciated!

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Well your making progress and that is what counts in the new shop.

I like the mirror shots of the ship, you see both front and back sides in one photo, that or you building two identical ships at once.

 

[Kurt Konrath]

Straight vertical walls when built, but what did years at sea do to the canopy after being wet and in the winds for lengths of time.

I work on aircraft and on older ones, built in 60's, they have problems aligning new manufactured parts up sometimes because of movement from original designed angles.

 

[shota70]

Dear Heinrich
Your work and the progress you make is most impressive.
the canopy looks great to me

 

[Heinrich]

Dear Heinrich
Your work and the progress you make is most impressive.
the canopy looks great to me

Thank you very much for the most kind words my friend. I am really enjoying building this little ship. The canopy still has a long way to go, but I am trying my best.

 

[RDN1954]

I work on aircraft and on older ones, built in 60's, they have problems aligning new manufactured parts up sometimes because of movement from original designed angles.

Aircraft, designed and build in the sixties, were made using hand made drawings. These drawings were far from accurate. I also know of shopfloor staff having their own "build instructions"; those were not exactly matching the formal ones. Now try and deliver fitting spare parts based on the original blueprints; ain't gonna happen and that's not accounting for 60 years of abuse by at least four generations of flyboys. So, no, I'm not surprised maintenance staff has difficulty fitting new parts in old airframes...