HMS Agamemnon by Caldercraft

[iutar]

Iutar : question .... ???? See photo.

Mark, I still don't understand the question. Are you saying that my words don't match the photos I showed?


You have to look very closely. The copper sheets don't extend under the rudder hinges. This is visible only under very high magnification.



It seems, I repeat, "seems," that the copper sheets in this area are solid. In fact, they are cut pieces, carefully fitted to the hinges. The hinges are powerful, forged bronze components, deeply embedded in the wood. Copper sheets cannot even theoretically be passed under the hinges.

In model kits, the hinges are thin strips of brass. In reality, the hinges were very strong components, deeply set into the wood. The copper sheathing in model kits, on the other hand, is thick copper compared to the actual sheets, which should be like foil. In reality, it was not the slightest difficulty for shipwrights to carefully cut and fit thin copper to any part of the ship's bottom.

 

[iutar]

If you really want to get to the bottom of this issue, things are even more complicated and simpler at the same time.

In addition, there was another way to solve the problem of contact between the rudder hinges and the copper sheets of the teredo\shipworm protection.

I repeat once again that we do not understand that in reality the hinges were large and powerful, and were installed long before the copper sheathing work began. Copper sheets, on the other hand, are thin and pliable.

So, the second method involves covering the rudder hinges with copper sheets on the outside, like a carpet. The hinges were covered with copper sheets and carefully compressed around all protrusions, corners, and bolts to ensure there were no voids.
In the previous photos, I showed bare rudder hinges. Now I'll show photos where the rudder hinges and hooks are covered with copper sheets. This is done to protect the joints shown in the previous photos.
The most famous example of copper sheathing laid over hinges and hooks is... the famous HMS Victory!



Here are some more examples, from a museum in Madrid (if I'm not mistaken). Take a closer look: the copper sheets are laid in such a way that they cover the rudder hinges.

 

[HMSFly]

If you really want to get to the bottom of this issue, things are even more complicated and simpler at the same time.

In addition, there was another way to solve the problem of contact between the rudder hinges and the copper sheets of the teredo\shipworm protection.

I repeat once again that we do not understand that in reality the hinges were large and powerful, and were installed long before the copper sheathing work began. Copper sheets, on the other hand, are thin and pliable.

So, the second method involves covering the rudder hinges with copper sheets on the outside, like a carpet. The hinges were covered with copper sheets and carefully compressed around all protrusions, corners, and bolts to ensure there were no voids.
In the previous photos, I showed bare rudder hinges. Now I'll show photos where the rudder hinges and hooks are covered with copper sheets. This is done to protect the joints shown in the previous photos.
The most famous example of copper sheathing laid over hinges and hooks is... the famous HMS Victory!
View attachment 550960
View attachment 550961

Here are some more examples, from a museum in Madrid (if I'm not mistaken). Take a closer look: the copper sheets are laid in such a way that they cover the rudder hinges.

View attachment 550964 View attachment 550962 View attachment 550963

Dear Iutar,

Again, I learned so much... Thx

 

[HMSFly]

I almost finished one side.....

And, I added the Beech plank which was not an easy task.
I used a 0,5 x 4 mm strip which I cut with a cutter into two parts in order to obtain a 0,5 x 2 mm strip.
I glued 1 mm on the copper plates and the other 1 mm on the wood.... not not easy but satisfied with the result...

Now the shipworms have no possibility anymore...

 

[HMSFly]

After almost 3 weeks of work and gluing together over 2500 18.5mm x 5.6mm copper plates individually, I'm almost there (almost a nervous breakdown).,,,
But it is beautiful, very beautiful...just a few more days...

 

[mtbediz1]

Cooper plating looks amazing. Congratulations Marc!

 

[HMSFly]

Cooper plating looks amazing. Congratulations Marc!

Thx Mustafa!
Marc

 

[HMSFly]

I took a very, very big risk!

(There's a saying in Belgium: being crazy doesn't hurt).
After the second layer of planking, I naturally tried to sand the outer wall down neatly...
However, I had sanded off too much on one strip, creating a visible difference in level. See photo.
This was emphasized again after painting.
Something I'd been .......... (I wil not use this expression) on for weeks.
Today I took my cutter, made a fine groove on both sides of the strip, and pried the strip out.
At the risk of damaging the other strips.


But thank goodness, it turned out great!
Just a few more coats of paint and it's perfect!

 

[DARIVS ARCHITECTVS]

I took a very, very big risk!

(There's a saying in Belgium: being crazy doesn't hurt).
After the second layer of planking, I naturally tried to sand the outer wall down neatly...
However, I had sanded off too much on one strip, creating a visible difference in level. See photo.
This was emphasized again after painting.
Something I'd been .......... (I wil not use this expression) on for weeks.
Today I took my cutter, made a fine groove on both sides of the strip, and pried the strip out.
At the risk of damaging the other strips.


But thank goodness, it turned out great!
Just a few more coats of paint and it's perfect!


View attachment 552916

View attachment 552917

View attachment 552918

View attachment 552919

I would not say that was a BIG risk. It may have been a new step for you, but all ship modelers encounter problems like this eventually. Mistakes are made all the time, and using a chisel edged razor knife to cut out bad sections of planking does happen once in a while. You learn model surgery by doing. After you perform a few of these type so repairs, you gain confidence such that making corrections and even large modifications it not as scary as before. I gutted the entire internal frame structure and rebuilt it with internal decks on my current model, and chopped away much of the stern in order to redesign it in a more correct shape, re-planking the first layer of planking over the new structure, and most people on the forum gasped in fear. However, if you have a vision of what change you want to make, carefully measure and adjust things as they go, and plan how the changes affect other aspects of the ship that are affected, you can change a lot. It just becomes another part of the building process. This also prepares your for other adventures in scratch building, working beyond a kit and its instructions. Your model becomes more and more YOURS.

Stern internal bulkheads chopped away using a bulky Dremel oscillating saw in preparation for installing a full length deck.


Cutting a flat plywood internal frame to make space for a new deck. This tool, though bulky, can cut with precision and ease. Plan your work and fear naught.